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Discussion Starter #1
I bought this car a week ago. i love it, but i think, this tempriture is too high.
i changed the thermostat, a checked the waterpump, i think this will be the radiator.....or ?

I checked the computer, and i have 3 current code
TC 0073
PC 1571
RS 0038

i have many history too, but i think those are not important, correct me if i do some stupid think....

I have one TRACTION CONTROLL light to on the dashboard what is allways there...
Anybody, who can help me...please..
This is my first time on this forum, and i think its gonna work for me to know more new info about the queen of the roads...

Thank you very much

Gabor
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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gaborvarga said:
I bought this car a week ago. i love it, but i think, this tempriture is too high.
i changed the thermostat, a checked the waterpump, i think this will be the radiator.....or ?

I checked the computer, and i have 3 current code
TC 0073
PC 1571
RS 0038

i have many history too, but i think those are not important, correct me if i do some stupid think....

I have one TRACTION CONTROLL light to on the dashboard what is allways there...
Anybody, who can help me...please..
This is my first time on this forum, and i think its gonna work for me to know more new info about the queen of the roads...

Thank you very much

Gabor
213 is the normal operating tempurature. That is where mine runs, maybe a bit cooler in the summer and a few degrees warmer in sub zero weather.

T073 .......................... PCM - EBTCM/EBCM Pulse Width Modulation Signal Fault
P1571 - Traction Control Torque Request Circuit
S038 ................... Electronic Level Control Exhaust Valve Short to Ground/Open

The traction light is probably set by T073 though I am not sure exactly how to fix it. You'll need a service manual (not Chilton ot Haynes).

The exhaust valve is serviceable on the ELC (electronic level control) compressor without replacing the entire compressor.

P1571 is an OBDII code while the others are OBDI which is strange but that may be set because of the T073 as well.

See if anyone else agrees with me.
 

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I've read on here that upto 225 in the summer is normal but i've only gotten upto 210 so far when idling int he driveway btu I get a consistent 197 when driving it around town. It's cool outside right now so I won't really know whats the hottest it gets until next summer because I barely got my 96 deville this year.
 

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94 DeVille Concours
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I believe you have the same engine that I have in my 94 Roadmaster, an LT1
and I was not happy with the high temps. I installed a 160 stat and the temp
is consistantly 176 deg. on the road and if I get into stop & go traffic I just
turn the ac on for a few minutes.

I have no trouble with heat in the winter, but I live in the sun belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thank you very very very much to everybody, who helping me.....i thought i but a car with the headgasket problem. i changed today the radiator cap too......but everything was the same. what do you mean ....if i will clean the radiator, the temp will goes down a littlebit?

thx again
Gabor
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hi

thank you the informations, but i dont know what do you mean......you installed a 160 stat......could you explain to me? what kind of part is that one?
thank you
Gabor
 

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you should replace the radiator cap and sometimes if they are dirty they can cause problems but better to replace it

a 160 degree thermostat instead of a stock 180 degree thermostat can help with cooling in hot temperatures but its not really necessary a 160 degree can also cause bad fuel economy
 

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hey ranger, explain your winter/summer temps. you run hotter in the winter??

I'm also looking into the trac control light issue. It seems as if my light is affected by outside air temp. Other day it was cool and rainy - 48d. No light came on. Today, temp around 55, no light till I drove for fifteen minutes?? I'm trying to understand the wheel sensors. Any clue as to how they function?
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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I questioned the "master" once on the temps as it seemed (to me) to be the opposite of what it should have been. As best as I can recall he said that in the winter the thermostat is closing down some, restricing flow, thus the engine temps will rise a bit. Conversly, during hot weather, it will open more to allow a higher flow rate thus lowering the engine temp. Seems to make sense when you realise that -20 degree air flow across the radiator will cool the coolant a lot more than 90 degree air. That has to affect the thermostat.

All I know about the wheel speed sensors is that they are intergral to the hub and bearing assembly. Maybe the cooler tempuratures are cooling the hub and bearing enough so that it works but when the temps rise, there is not enough cooling, thus an intermittent sensor failure. My guess would be that yours is starting to fail, but check the connections before jumping to that conclusion. When the light is on, you might pull each connector and run a continuity check at each wheel to test the sensor.
 

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ocjmakaveli said:
you should replace the radiator cap and sometimes if they are dirty they can cause problems but better to replace it

a 160 degree thermostat instead of a stock 180 degree thermostat can help with cooling in hot temperatures but its not really necessary a 160 degree can also cause bad fuel economy
These cars (Norhtstar 4.6) came with a 190/195 thermostat. In fact they were designed to run this way not only for optimal efficency but for longevity purposes aswell. Top reasons for headgasket failure on these cars are not using the sealer suplement. Infact puting in a colder thermostat may make it more prone to failure, because the metal is supposed to be expanded to what it would at that temperature for optimal seal. Even on the LT1 featued in the fullsize rwd, they were designed to run at the hightemps. Long gone are the days when Fords idea for emissions reduction was throw a 195degree thermostat in a 2.3, or 3.8, without redesign of the coooling system. Always go with the oe tempthemostat, its just a good idea. If you put a lower temp thermostat, lets jsut say 160 for instance, on the highway it would probably be arround 170, as soon as you sat and idled, your temp would rise and rise and rise, untill it hit the fan kick on point, I believe arround 220-230, so You would do more bad than good to make your motor run through that range of tmeps.


-The Cadillac Rancher
 

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Cadillac_Rancher said:
Top reasons for headgasket failure on these cars are not using the sealer suplement.
-The Cadillac Rancher
The cooling system suppliment (sealer) has nothing to do with head gasket failure. It's sole purpose is to prevent niusance leaks due to porous castings or imperfect gasket mating surfaces, nothing more.
 

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A nick or scratch. Not very likely though. Porous casting is more likely I would suspect and that is probably pretty rare. .
 
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