[CTSM]

My trans will be out for a rebuild early next week. I'm getting it rebuilt and upgraded.

Also installing Creative-Steel's Bronze and Derlin bushings for the snifter while it's out, in addition a to a Tick remote bleeder line.

Before I order a clutch kit I wanted to see what you guys are running.

I want to make sure my car will be ready for that upgrade in a year's time or so.

My V is exclusively a street car, basically a weekend toy, I don't foresee any drag or racing events in the near future with this car.

Comfort and noise is important, I want to make sure it can be as comfortable as possible while still being able to hold up the LS2 once it's supercharged.

I know the LS7 clutch is a popular swap, I'm also curious about the LS9 clutch, how about the flywheel which one did you go with?

Also I understand that some people go aftermarket with Monster and Mcleod.

In the case of aftermarket, is a twin disc justified at those power levels?

Anyone ditching the dual mass flywheel for an LS7, LS9 or aftermarket? If so how's driving it on the street like now after the swap?

And about slaves, are you guys just going with LS7 slaves or something else?

Would appreciate some pointers so I can get it right the first time around.

Thanks

 

[Pakamper]

For what it's worth i'm not supercharged but I'm running the monster twin clutch. I believe its a stock flywheel, and an ls7 slave. I've found it a bit on the heavy/aggressive side making it not ideal for stop and go traffic, but it's perfect for when you just want to rip on it a bit through the gears. Doesn't strain your leg other than in stop and go, but will get into gear quickly without exploding your drivetrain as it grabs fairly fast.

 

[Billfrombyron]

I'm not forced induction, but my ACT clutch is amazing.

I really recommend a ACT T1SG02 twin.

Drives amazing, and will hold your power levels you are chasing. It's also rebuildable for future maintenance needs.

They also drive amazing in heavy traffic.

Bonus is stock master and slave for a stock hydraulic system.

Get centric brand off rock auto. Do the slave and master at the same time. Add in some -4 an hose from master to slave for a truly amazing pedal feel.

-Byron

 

[Pakamper]

Add in some -4 an hose from master to slave for a truly amazing pedal feel.

-Byron

What is this Byron?

 

[CTSM]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Bill that's a good tip about the line, I will have to keep that one in mind for the future.

I was running out of time yesterday and needed to make a decision fast as the parts need to be at the shop Monday, after some lengthy research and going to many vendors sites and forums since last week, here is what I ended up ordering.

Hopefully this will serve as good reference list for anyone online looking to do the same which is get a stock feel with high output LS6/LS2 V1 applications.

- Katech LS9X Clutch Kit for CTS V1 (Twin Clutch + Aluminum Flywheel)

Katech Part#: KAT-A6179

**CORRECTION** This spacer is not needed nor is it compatible with the LS9X Clutch Kit.
According to Katech this is not needed for the the LS9X Clutch Kit, it is used for CTS V1s using LS7 parts such as clutch, Flywheel...etc.
The LS9X pressure plate is designed with a stock LS2 slave in mind and is spaced accordingly.
They cancelled my spacer order. They said a stock LS2 slave should work with this kit without need for the spacer which is great! **
- Katech CTS-V Slave cylinder Spacer with the longer bolts (To allow swap from Dual Mass Flywheel to Single Mass Flywheel)
Katech Part#: KAT-3816
**CORRECTION** This spacer is not needed nor is it compatible with the LS9X Clutch Kit.


- Tick GM Slave Cylinder LS6/LS2 with throw out bearing + Upgraded Billet Release Support

- GM Slave Part# 12587376
- Tick Billet Release Support # TS004577
- I had to order them together pre-installed and pay the premium because I wanted everything to get shipped in one package to my shop no fuss no muss.

- Tick Remote Clutch Bleeder Line
Tick Part#: TPSBL5G

My transmission should be ready at some point next week God wiling and all.

I'll let you guys know how everything turns out.

 

[89eldorado]

FYI the master cylinder is the hardest part to replace. You will get your money's worth from the shop doing this for you.

That Katech flywheel is pretty damn light. I am running the stock ls7 flywheel and it seems a little on the light side for commuting as I need to keep some throttle in between shifts, otherwise it will wind down and not shift smoothly. Let us know how your setup turns out.

-Brian

 

[CTSM]

You are absolutely right 89eldorado, all those sub-console jobs are a ROYAL PITA!

Heck when I first got the V, the clutch switch needed to be changed, and I'm no small guy, I became a contortionist during that job as I did not remove the seat or disconnect the push rod, I sang praises of All mighty God that I finished it from the second try lol.

But right now, I'm having the shop do things that really necessitate a lift (there is a lift installation in my plans for next year) and other things they can do while the trans is at the re-builder.

Now the master itself now shows no signs of failure, but God forbid it fails down the road I know can do it myself since it doesn't require a lift.

It's at most a 3.5 hour job and I will be taking my sweet time as this is not my DD after all, but when I do that seat is coming off like it's no one's business lol

 

[rand49er]

I had a Katech LS9 twin-disc clutch kit installed some number of years ago. Fabulous ... just fabulous. Had an LAPD remote bleeder and stock slave installed while it was being put in just because it was there being opened up and why not? Pricey? Yup, a bit.

 

[CTSM]

Thanks Randy it's great to hear this feedback from a forum member who actually used this same setup.

I'm pretty much in the same spot here, trans will be out and I opted for that new and upgraded LS2 slave from Tick, because the last thing I want to do is open it up again for a slave replacement, that would suck hard!

 

[CTSM]

Update:

Yesterday the trans was dropped, the old flywheel and clutch removed.

Looks like the previous owner had a single mass steel flywheel installed and a LUK clutch I forgot to note down the part numbers, I'm keeping the old parts so I'll add them later.

There were some hot spots on the flywheel nothing excessive, the clutch also looked like it has seen better days but still ok.

I'm having the rear main seal and rear cover seal replaced with ACdelco ones.

My tech told me he noticed some slight seepage from the rear main seal, something I was suspicious of when I was working on my car, I'm glad I'm doing it now and get it out of the way.

I didn't make it in time to snap pics of the trans it had already been transported to my local rebuilder.

But below are some pics of some of the goodies and car.

Shifter assembly with Hurst short throw shifter. Those stock bushings were so compliant and soft no wonder there was so much play in the shifter.



The goodies from Katech made it to the shop in no time so it was waiting for me there.

Pay special attention to the instructions on how to install the flywheel (needs to be uniformly heated to 200F) and the clutch break in procedure!.

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Here is that well made Katech LS9X lightweight flywheel in wrapper, with a steel disc were the clutch makes contact.



Much lighter than the steel single mass flywheel which was installed.



Katech LS9X clutch and pressure plate.



Trans tunnel, seal and cover seal had not been replaced. I double checked that my tech will be using an alignment tool for the job.

Last thing I want is to take it back for a leaking cover or rear main deal to be done again. Also another interesting matter tech decided to remove the cat to gain better access to the upper bolts.



My tech informed me that the previous owner had cross threaded most of the bell housing bolts, so previous owner, if you are reading this, damn it man either do it right or step away from the wrench. My trans builder inspected it, the bell housing will be replaced thanks to that genius.:mad2:

More updates next week

 

[Billfrombyron]

Add in some -4 an hose from master to slave for a truly amazing pedal feel.

-Byron

What is this Byron?

-4 AN braided hose. You will need an adapter for the slave and master.

You can use a female to male union for a mid section that can be disassembled for future maintenance needs.

It's not anything fancy. But elimination of the rubber lines makes it feel even better to drive.

-Byron