Right there with you!!! I have owned my SRX for 3 years. Last year I had the same issue and fought for 3 weeks with Cadillac Customer Assistance Center at 1-800-458-8006 and ended up settling on they pay for parts and I pay for labor. The dealership quoted the drain tubes were not installed correctly. Right now, a year later, I have 3 inches of water in the well and a wet interior so I have opened the same claim and am once again fighting. This is a safety issue in that if there is an accident or fire, the lift gate cannot be opened electronically or manually and this time the assembly constantly cycled closed until it drained my battery.

This being my 2nd issue, I immediately pulled the 3 fuses from the rear panel hoping that I can salvage the parts; I am not doing anything until Cadillac responds to my ticket. Since this is a repeat issue, they have elevated it to a Cadillac Senior Advisor.

We love the car otherwise... I am on the fence about just getting rid of it and changing vehicles but It is so damn close to being paid off and I love no car payments.

I am thinking of asking the dealer to let me in there when it is all opened up and dry and maybe using some heat shrink tubing or some drill/pin procedure on the grommets before they put it back together. I know it is the extreme temperature change that is causing the tubes to become disconnected at the grommet. I am also considering drilling holes in the well to allow it to drain and installing rubber grommets with caulking to reduce corrosion in the well. At least I would stop the lift gate damage and just have to clean the interior and dehumidify if it happens again!

 

Hi All,

so they knew there was a problem and did not issue a recall
Brian

GM will never issue a recall for a non-safety issue. They will, however, sometimes conduct a "customer satisfaction campaign" if there is enough pushback, i.e. timing chains. Most times they will not advertise these so you have to ask or have a good dealer.

 

I just had this issue with my 2012 SRX. A couple years ago the front drain hoses had a recall and were done, but they never did anything about the rear. I bought this car used and didn't have it long and with a rain storm water got into the cargo area, fried the liftgate module and my entire carpet was saturated. I ended up filing a comp claim with my insurance and had to eat a $500 deductible.

Unfortunately this is not the only issue I have had with this car . . really expected more from Cadillac and felt confident when I bought it that I was buying a quality vehicle.. not so. The sad part is I love the car. I am a single mother and could not afford the extra $2100 for the extended warranty when I bought it and I cannot afford the expensive repairs that keep popping up. Im stuck with a car that looks pretty on the outside but is basically a piece of junk.

 

Sorry I am going though the same issue with my car can you please share how you were able to file a comp claim. I called but they said if normal wear and tear it would not be covered

 

Merhchant law group in Canada has handled some claims against Cadillac. Recommend calling them and notifying them.
Some of you may also be having trunk issues as the trunk control box is in the back truck in a well that in many situations also gets filled with water.
There are 2 safety issues with this problem - as the condensation shows up while I’m driving and blocks my vision. Since it’s on the inside, I have no other choice but to clean it manually from the inside. If I can pull over, I do so before cleaning. But there are times, when one is on the road where pulling over is difficult. The other issue is mold. It was weeks before I realized what the problem was, while I checked every possible scenario and in the meantime the water soaked carpets.

 

We have a 2014 SRX Lux, and have not had any leakage problems....but for me, the $64 Thousand Dollar Question is...how/where does that water come from? I regularly check the the seals around the sunroof for snug fit and possible deterioration and have yet to notice a problem. It's totally dry all around the interior channels, even after going thru those high pressure car washes. :suspense:

 

I believe this issue was fixed by MY2014

 

Merhchant law group in Canada has handled some claims against Cadillac. Recommend calling them and notifying them.
Some of you may also be having trunk issues as the trunk control box is in the back truck in a well that in many situations also gets filled with water.
There are 2 safety issues with this problem - as the condensation shows up while I’m driving and blocks my vision. Since it’s on the inside, I have no other choice but to clean it manually from the inside. If I can pull over, I do so before cleaning. But there are times, when one is on the road where pulling over is difficult. The other issue is mold. It was weeks before I realized what the problem was, while I checked every possible scenario and in the meantime the water soaked carpets.

 

in my vehicle, the found there were holes in the seam sealer on the internal welds of the cars interior body that caused water to leak and flood my car. Also burned out the control module which was immersed in water. I recommend you contact Transport Canada and file a recall complaint.

 

Rarely do the rear drain tubes detach. Usually they clog and the water overflows and finds its way down to the liftgate pump/module area. And sometimes the is seam sealer issues.
If it were my vehicle and I haven't had the water issue down there yet...I'd drill a couple 1/4" holes in the floor down by the pump. That way, if any water gets down there, it'll drain out instead of draining your wallet.

 

Rarely do the rear drain tubes detach. Usually they clog and the water overflows and finds its way down to the liftgate pump/module area. And sometimes the is seam sealer issues.
If it were my vehicle and I haven't had the water issue down there yet...I'd drill a couple 1/4" holes in the floor down by the pump. That way, if any water gets down there, it'll drain out instead of draining your wallet.

 

Nope!

 

We finally had some rain a couple of days ago. It was a good thing I had drilled the holes I did. There was water all over the rear. The module wasn't scheduled to be programmed until yesterday. The outside case of the module was wet but the internals were still OK and it got programmed. (another $100.). I decided to tear into it this morning. I removed the left upper interior panel, left lower panel and found the drain hose. I ran water down the rail area of the top and water came out the drain. A few seconds it also came running out the headliner and soaked the rear interior again. The drain was clear so I removed the lower panel on the right side. I found that drain and again poured water down the channel and again water came out of the tube and it came pouring out from the headliner. What a pain in the rear. I pulled the rear part of the headliner down and found the right hand hose split. I made the repair and poured more water into the channel and it seems to be OK. I found no reason for the split in the hose. It is made from pliable rubber so I don't believe a freezint event caused it. I repaired it with clear plastic.

If you decide to check yours it would be a good idea to do it when the headliner is dry as this felt like mush when I worked on it. In fact I can now tell where it creased during disassembly and reassembly. I left the whole care open in the hot sun and put a shop fan on it to dry all day today. I just got it put back together. To me, it still looks like if there is a torrential rain that the drainage system can be overwhelmed and spill over the channel lips. Hopefully I have cured the $1k repair every time it rains.

Also, I had a couple of the white buttons fall into the abyss known as the lower quarter. I went to the dealer to get some and decided to get a half dozen in case I lost or broke others. The dealer wanted $6.00 each so six plastic buttons that I have ordered through Carquest for $2.00 would have cost me $36.00 from the dealer. I declined their offer and ordered the aftermarket buttons.

I wanted to call 911 to report a robbery while at the dealer parts counter.

 

So you just proved that the posters here who claim this is not a part failure and is simply the drains getting clogged are incorrect! You could have made sure those drains were clear every day and that would not have prevented that drain hose from splitting! I am going to go out on a limb and guess GM never issued a service bulletin on the rear hoses because it involves much more work than fixing the front hoses. Can you confirm the front hoses are made from the same material as the rear? I would assume they are?

Thanks GM!

 

The rear hoses were black and very pliable. I would have thought they would expand like a balloon if frozen. I've seen pics of the front hoses and they look like a white plastic so I would say no, they are not the same. As far as the leaks go, the water runs on top of the headliner and then runs down the inside of the rear side panels. At that point the water can make its way to the floor pan and run into the module/pump area. After the last rain and before I tore it apart there were water droplets leaking from the rear interior lights. Then when I looked up I could see the water collecting at the headliner as I showed in the pictures in this thread.

We had a major thunderstorm a couple of days ago and when I checked the rear area was dry so I think I have my problem resolved. FWIW, I made a mistake in not taking pictures as I took it apart and found the issue. I wasn't in the mood at that time to be taking time to do a documentary. I just wanted to get it done and over with.

Edit to add: Everything I basically read is the front drains are the culprit but I cannot see how the front drains leaking into the car will cause the rear module problems. If someone is having problems with water in the rear it has to be coming from the back drains. There isn't a lot of information out there on how to get to them. They are behind the rear panels and are snapped into the quarter panels so they drain into the bottom of the quarters and exit through holes there. I could not get my hands into the cubby hole area to re snap those ends back where they belonged so they are laying in the area and still properly draining. Again, engineers didn't design them to be serviced very easy.

 

First time we’ve ever heard of a split drain hose and now we are jumping to the conclusion that all the drain hoses are defective?
The facts are that the front hoses were defective because they were too short and pulled away from their firewall connection. And the rear hoses don’t have a defect, they just clog up like every other sunroof hose has the potential to do.
The problem is where the water goes when the sunroof drains don’t work. It goes into an area that has expensive liftgate components.
Now that we know that, we also know we need keep an eye on it. Or just drill a couple holes down there and move with life.

 

What about taking silicone and sealing up the glass on the outside of the sunroof? We never open ours anyway. My seals look good, but we have had the water problem in the back which fried the electronics.

 

I have a 2014 SRX and this is the second time I am having the drain lines replaced. Its an engenierring flaw that should be replaced under good faith or the problem fixed. Cadillac of Naperville is charging me over $450.00 to replace the back two lines for the second time! I was in the middle of purchasing a new Cadillac however after this experience I am done with this brand. Moving on!!!!!

 

Can someone please post the steps on removing the styrofoam storage inset (no spare tire) so I can check the area below for moisture in mine? Google seems give me nothing nor any Youtube videos.

Max

 

Max simply lift it straight up. You have to pull back the top cover all the way back first. Try taking the back seats down. That may help. It’s very easy

 

Just one more update. I was able to get the tubes that they replaced from my SRX. They look brand new and more importantly water flows through the tubes with no problem. No blockage as I was told. I have a call into the service manager. Very poor business practices at this dealership.

 

There is an aluminum frame around the wheel well. It has 3 or 4 hex bolts. Unscrew them and everything lifts out. If your having a water problem, unbolt the rear liftgate lock . Look under the lip of the wheel well and make sure the rubber plug separating the wheel well from the rear bumper is installed. I did this and the water problem (so far) has been fixed. I have a 2011 SRX.

 

Guys, you are overthinking this. As soon as my dad bought a SRX 2 years ago, I pulled out the spare tire foam block and drilled to 1/4” “water drain holes” in the floor near the pump. He’ll never have a problem like this ever.
As far as drain tubes are concerned, they have the potential to get blocked up like every sunroof drain tube on every car ever made. Unfortunately they are not easy to get to to maintain and blow out the blockage.

 

Guys, you are overthinking this. As soon as my dad bought a SRX 2 years ago, I pulled out the spare tire foam block and drilled to 1/4” “water drain holes” in the floor near the pump. He’ll never have a problem like this ever.
As far as drain tubes are concerned, they have the potential to get blocked up like every sunroof drain tube on every car ever made. Unfortunately they are not easy to get to to maintain and blow out the blockage.

Agree with you - I had the dealer drill two 1/4" holes just as I read here and so far, the back has been fine. Now, for the front. WTF. FUBAR

 

I am having the same issue now with my 2013 SRX.

 

Hi Brian and everyone...
I hadn't had this issue before, but can now join the ranks of those that hate this SUV.
First, the rear hatch wouldn't open - found out about this issue from that adventure. Then, after it happened AGAIN - somehow, the front one has now opened up and now flooded the front passenger footwell.
Frustrated and want GM to just pay for a fix so that everyone can get on with their lives and not be raped at the dealership when this happens to them.

 

i am gonna do just that, i will remove the insert, and pour some water in to find the low spot - but i will drill a larger hole 3/8 and rust proof the hole

 

We just purchased our srx 2011 last year, already spent nearly $3000 dollars in repair. He had this horrible rain this summer and didn't know our trunk was filling up with water, didn't know anything about the draining until after everything is in water.

 

Just so people know, it's quite ez to test the drains and it would be a good idea to do this every so often. With the sunroof open using a good flashlight you can see the drain holes. I used a small container of water and a turkey baster to put a small amount of water down each one. You only need like 1/2 a shot glass full. If drains are open you'll immediately see puddles on the ground near the wheels.

It's a shame that so many people only come to this site to gripe after the fact when they could save themselves a lot of grief and cash by doing a little research before the purchase. Seems every car has it's design flaws. Knowing them and being proactive can be the difference between having a good owner experience or a crappy one.

 

My sunroof don't open

 

Right on Hoosier. I just take a water bottle and pour it into the channel on each side of the sunroof once a month or so and check to make sure it is draining at the front and rear. . I put a reminder in my calendar that pops up now and again. Easier than climbing up there with a flashlight and turkey baster lol. Works great and so far so good. I also like Tripwire's suggestion of drilling a drain hole and rust proofing the hole. If I go that far I would also put a flap on the underside of the hole to prevent salty water splashing up during Chicago winters.

 

There are various fix it videos on youtube. Basically you need to replace or repair the drain tube