Subwoofer and Amp install
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I added two 12 inch rockford to my 2011 sedan, sounds great. I used a speaker output converter. Basically converts your speaker outputs into an rca output for your amp. Super easy I used the wires for the stock sub so no need to run any cables to the front of the car, install took 20 minutes
The kit you buy has a bass knob (if your amp doesn't have one already) so you can adjust the bass perfectly, sounds awesome with the bose speakers I think. Just make sure to take the stock sub out, the pressure from the subs in the truck push the stock sub and make it sound like crap. So that hole makes a good port to the inside of the car
I was also looking to do something similar. Can you post a link to the kit you're talking about Raul?
No link, I bought it at Walmart it's the only thing they have that does that in the audio section
Most modern sub amps come with a bass knob. Also, you don't want to use a cheap LOC. Get a quality one like this http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html
I guess if you want to spend 100 bucks then yes, the one I got was 35 and works perfectly. Does what it's supposed to do no problems
I've used lots of cheap LOC's before and of course they all work with no problems, but the difference in sound quality and output between those and the LC2i is night and day. But if you are happy with yours that's all good.
For those that are not convinced, here's a short video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEoqLbgKNu0
I think maybe if you were running a seperate amp for your door speakers that might be a better way to go where sound quality would matter greatly, for bass it does the job and sound is excellent. Bass is on point and sounds the same as if it were hooked up directly to a deck. Had this setup in a different car hooked up the right way and sounds just as good.
Im using a LOC and everything is done in my trunk. I never had to run any wires to the front of my car except to connect to front speakers cause rear speakers have crossovers on them. I hooked everything into the Bose amp which is on the left side of your trunk. Battery is in the back makes for an easy and quick install.
Can you explain the connecting to the front speakers a bit further? I'm using an LOC (PAC SNI-35), and it sounds pretty good, but I'm getting some pretty heavy gain variances from song to song. My LOC is connected to the subwoofer wires on the connector that sits on the backside of the amp. I've heard the front speaker suggestion before, but haven' t given it a shot. Do you have to wire the LOC all the way to the actual front speaker, or can you wire it to the front speaker wires on the connector I speak of above? It's really fascinating to read the comments on the varying setups
FWIW... I compete isn IASCA Sound Quality.. I built my system to compete with the OEM Head unit and Bose Amp in place Utilizing the High Levels out from the amp into an Audison Bit one.. From the looks of the Photo, I think I did ok.. so if you do it right, you will have amazing sound quality!
This was the results the past weekend (March 21st) from Daytona Spring Break Nationals
IASCA SQ Amateur Class 2nd Place (Sound Quality Challenge)
IASCA IQC Amateur Class Champion (Install Quality Challenge)
IASCA RTA SPL Challenge 2nd Place as Tie Breaker based on Sound Quality Scores)
Triple Crown Champion...
This was the results the past weekend (March 21st) from Daytona Spring Break Nationals
IASCA SQ Amateur Class 2nd Place (Sound Quality Challenge)
IASCA IQC Amateur Class Champion (Install Quality Challenge)
IASCA RTA SPL Challenge 2nd Place as Tie Breaker based on Sound Quality Scores)
Triple Crown Champion...
Attachments
Guys also FYI depending on the year of the CTS Some of them have already low level outputs at the output of the amp ( At least on the 10 speaker system with navi- The subwoofer amp is a part of the sub itself, so if you know how to use a soldering iron you can solder rca ends right to the actual wire.. ALSO JL AUDIO make a complete integration for our cars...
http://www.jlaudio.com/sb-c-cts-prem-car-audio-stealthmod-94554
http://www.jlaudio.com/sb-c-cts-prem-car-audio-stealthmod-94554
The subwoofer is connected with the rear speakers and has crossovers does it not? If you run the connecting wires that you tap into on the LOC run it to the bar between the front and rear door by your seat belt is the speaker wiring.
Fonzo,
if you have the 10 speaker system with NAVi- You do not need a Line out converter after the Bose amp. it is already low level as the Sub amp is a part of the sub. its a traditional bose type of setup.. Tap it with an RCA and you are ready to go.. if you plan to do multiple amps and front speakers, Its a bit more involved...
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if you have the 10 speaker system with NAVi- You do not need a Line out converter after the Bose amp. it is already low level as the Sub amp is a part of the sub. its a traditional bose type of setup.. Tap it with an RCA and you are ready to go.. if you plan to do multiple amps and front speakers, Its a bit more involved...
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The OPEM bose amp is the crossover everything in the 10-11-12-13-& 14 is Bose amp controlled and functions directly through the amp...
I just got adding a Sub and Amp to my 8-speaker Bose system. I purchased this Line Out Converter
It has a remote bass control knob and a remote wire to turn the amp on if your amp doesn't autosense from the RCAs.
On the 8 Speaker system the X1 Connector to the Amp (the White one) has all the wires you need. At first I wired the LOC how the instructions said to the rear speaker +- on the X2 connector and there was barley any bass, The LOC i listed has 4 wires , two positive two negative, I wired the two positives to PIN 7 and the negative to PIN 3 on the X1 connector:
Pin 3 - Green and Black - Subwoofer Negative
Pin 7 - Blue and White - Subwoofer Positive
Pin 4 - Red and Black - 12v Positive Constant
Pin 8 - Black -Ground
The 10 speaker system has a X4 Connector that has Low Level Subwoofer wires you can tap RCAs off directly without a LOC.
Now I have more than enough Bass, even with the Kicker CompS 12" and DX250.1 Amp i got from best but for $135 package deal.
Makes me think I'm crazy for having 2 old school rockford fosgate power punch DVCs in my old car years ago.
It has a remote bass control knob and a remote wire to turn the amp on if your amp doesn't autosense from the RCAs.
On the 8 Speaker system the X1 Connector to the Amp (the White one) has all the wires you need. At first I wired the LOC how the instructions said to the rear speaker +- on the X2 connector and there was barley any bass, The LOC i listed has 4 wires , two positive two negative, I wired the two positives to PIN 7 and the negative to PIN 3 on the X1 connector:
Pin 3 - Green and Black - Subwoofer Negative
Pin 7 - Blue and White - Subwoofer Positive
Pin 4 - Red and Black - 12v Positive Constant
Pin 8 - Black -Ground
The 10 speaker system has a X4 Connector that has Low Level Subwoofer wires you can tap RCAs off directly without a LOC.
Now I have more than enough Bass, even with the Kicker CompS 12" and DX250.1 Amp i got from best but for $135 package deal.
Makes me think I'm crazy for having 2 old school rockford fosgate power punch DVCs in my old car years ago.
Will this work for the 2009 CTS4
Ok, got another question about upgrading the speakers, anyone added a nice set of tweeters up front to their BOSE system. Having thought about a small sub as well, but also would like better highs as the BOSE in my CTS isnt as nice in ways as my Eldorado once was. especially at higher volumes when it starts to clip off some. I know, most responses are rip it all out, and start from scratch. Had a 87 Conquest TSI with a set of 8" Rockford subs in a small folded enclosure box that fit very compact, and neat between rear shock towers and didnt take up too much space. I ran a factory Head as it has steering wheel controls that I didnt want to loose, a Sony 10 disc changer and sent the signal to a very nice programable Soundstream Crossover that was mounted under passenger seat so I could reach back and tweak it as I needed from Sub crossover point/output volume/Mid to tweet crossover as I ran a Bi-amp type setup to other speakers which were MB Quart ( the high end German ones, not the newer crap). Had a 400 watt Fosgate Sub amp, and 2 4 X 100 Fosgate amps for the mid/tweets. Had 6" Coax's in rear shock tower locations, and 6" mid down low in doors, and seperate tweets up high in doors. had a killer sound, and would hammer when I wanted it, but had super clarity and spacing. Even with sunroof out, and windows down at highway speeds sounded like a sound room setting.
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