Ok ive read so many post on here and realized that there are some very smart people here and i finaly ran into a problen that i need some help with. But anyways i got a 95 eldorado and when it tries to shift (normaly around 2000 rpm in any gear) it jerks erratically back and forth like it can't make it into gear or it does and then slips out. If you let off the gas and let it shift then get back on the gas its smooth as butter.... iv'e replaced the wires, plugs, icm, and in the process of replacing the shift solenoids now just waiting on the parts. No codes starts and runs perfect just can't figure this one out....would appreciate any help thx
stumble when shifting
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Curious that your car didn't report any trouble codes. This one sounds like the 1-2 and 2-3 shift solenoids will do the job.
When you refill the transmission use the new synthetic GM DEXRON-VI - it is compatible with the now superseded DEXRON-III. Don't forget that the 4T80E is a dry sump transmission. There will be NO fluid on the dipstick with the engine off. Follow the GM service manual instructions for filling a partially drained transmission/torque convertor.
When you refill the transmission use the new synthetic GM DEXRON-VI - it is compatible with the now superseded DEXRON-III. Don't forget that the 4T80E is a dry sump transmission. There will be NO fluid on the dipstick with the engine off. Follow the GM service manual instructions for filling a partially drained transmission/torque convertor.
thats what i was thinking can't wait for the parts to see but it don't look like the solenoids are broken ... no cracks or anything and i checked the ohms and they both read the same 21.3....i don't what they are suposed to be but with them being the same i would think the old ones are good... but i was wanting to ask if thier is any chance the ttc soleniod could do this? thanks for any help
TCC (Torque Convertor Clutch) generally engages only after load is decreased in 4th gear above 41 (?) mph. It's a technique to remove the last bit of slip between the input and output shafts on the convertor. It does not engage in any gear below 4, and results in a gentle engine speed decrease of about 300 rpm. It is not an "overdrive" as such in that it does not engage another gear.
If you shift the car manually at 2000 rpm - as in 1 - 2 - 3 - D, what happens ???
If you don't have a GM/Helm Service Manual, you need one to find the problem.
If you shift the car manually at 2000 rpm - as in 1 - 2 - 3 - D, what happens ???
If you don't have a GM/Helm Service Manual, you need one to find the problem.
when i get the shift solenoids back in ill let u know but i did just go out there and check the codes and to73 and to67 i checked to see if power is going to the brake switch and coming out of it and it was..the pulse bandwith i have know idea about...sorry bout the codes the light wasn't on so i assumed which makes an ass out of me
and forgot to say but the traction control display does come on randomly for no apperent reason any ideas
Before you start on the transmission, jack up the car, one corner at a time, mark the wheel/lug nut and remove the wheel/tire and disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector(s) and clean them with electronic component spray - Radio Shack. There's a slim chance that one or more wheel speed sensors is sending an intermittent signal which will trigger TC due to the PCM "recognizing" wheel slippage.
Replace each wheel as indexed. Torque each wheel's lug nuts to 100 ft/lb in a star pattern using 3 passes. Make sure the wheel/rotor mounting surfaces are squeaky clean.
Replace each wheel as indexed. Torque each wheel's lug nuts to 100 ft/lb in a star pattern using 3 passes. Make sure the wheel/rotor mounting surfaces are squeaky clean.
ok got the shift solenoids in and it didn't help... it hasn't thrown any codes and it still jerks back and forth in any gear kinda like the engine looses all power and then gets it back....if i put it in any gear 1st 2nd r 3rd it still does it can't figure it out need help
ok something new it stops doing it when the traction disable appears on the dash....anyone have any ideas
I think your traction control is applying your brakes. It thinks that the wheels are slipping. It's probably getting confused because of the PWM signal fault between it and the PCM. You may have a wiring harness issue, or a bad connection at the EBTCM, or at the PCM.
Malcom does your car have a switch in the Glove Box beside the Valet switch to turn the traction control off? Later models came with that, if you turn this off you can drive until you find the problem. Because this is a specialized system on an older car, OBD1 you will need to have a scan tool that reads datastream for ABS, to do this you will probably have to go to a Dealer or Garage that has a tool to narrow down the problem, you have the two codes but when you run the diagnostics for them it will inform you to connect a scantool, our cars are great at telling us codes for all our computer modules but when it comes to the secondary part we have to dig deeper. All you need to do is pay them to tell you what the problem is, you then can fix it yourself without guessing. Some simple things to try are, replacing the grounding wire at the grounding stud on the EBTCM, they really corrode over time. CHeck your alt and Bat, these will also cause havoc with these systems. Good hunting
no it don't have the traction control switch but i puled the fuse to see what it would do and it ran like complete sh*t ( couldnt even make it up a smaller hill by my house)... seemes weard the the abs and traction control would do that but what ever... i did how ever overide the pcm ps24 which disables the traction control for 11 cycles and it runs fine for now till i find the problem thx for the suggestion CADDYSHACK1000 do you happen to no of a way to permatly dissable the traction control without pulling the fuse?
The reason that it runs like that is it will default to a second gear start, so no first gear, someone who has a tech2 or Tech 1 scantool can go in and make some changes for you, it will be the same as your pcm override and will come back, I do not know a way to disable the traction control without pulling the fuse, it is also linked to the ABS so those lights should also be coming on, if you can live with the second gear starts, I would keep doing that instead of what it was doing before.
when i say runs like sh*t i don't mean it is in to high a gear and just can't pull it's self i mean it bogs down and acts like its going to die! and the abs light does come on when i pulled the fuse but not when i override the pcm or the pcm disables it by it's self....just wondering if i cut the data wire form the ebtcm to the pcm wil the pcm disable it by its self because i'm really not to fond of my girlfriend going into the pcm and overriding it and we don't have anymore money to sink into it right now... She can do without 2nd gear lol and caddyshak100 sent u a pm
I think by pulling the fuse, you're taking out a segment of the data line loop. So with the fuse out there is probably a latency before the PCM gets certain data, and a latency before the PCM's changes go into effect. I dunno if I'm right or not. It would make sense to me though.
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