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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was driving down the road the other day and I noticed that the temp guage on my display wasn't showing anything. I just thought it was a temporary glitch. About a minute later my CD player shut off, then a couple of seconds after that, the radio display went black. Not the black when you shut the radio off, but completely black. My gas guage showed empty, the light by the shifter shut off, a red light by the emergency button on my mirror turned on, I couldn't turn my fog lights on, windows wouldn't roll down, and my doors wouldn't unlock. I immediately took it to the dealer and they ran diagnostics for about an hour and found NOTHING! They said it could have been that my subwoofers caused some module to freak, but I couldn't imagine them doing that much. It happened again to me tonight after I remote started my car. I walked out to get in and my remote wouldn't unlock the car. I had to manually do it. When I got home and turned the engine off, everything started working again while the key was in the ON position. I'm going to take it to the dealer tomorrow to let them check it again. Anybody know what is going on?!? :confused:
 

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Remote start? Hmmmm....

Sounds like 1 of two things it happening. Either your remote start is causing a loss of power to some modules OR you have an intermittent problem with the communication bus on your car. I have seen both, but not necessarily on CTS.
Who put in your remote start? Does it happen only when you use the remote start or does it happen when you get in and use the key too?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It started before I got the remote start, so I don't think that it is the problem. The only idea that the dealer had was that it was from my subwoofers.
 

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I am not sure how the subs could interfere, but it depends on how everything is wired.
You could have anything from a loose ground to a chafed wire.
The key is going to be getting it to act up and then isolating the source of the problem.
I had an Escalade a few weeks ago that had similar problems but it was easy to diagnose because it was broken all the time. I found that the XM receiver stuck transmitting a high data signal on the data line, thus taking out all communications between modules on the truck.
Try to find the pattern that causes it to fail, that will help them diagnose it.
Take notes if you have to and hand them the notes when you drop it off.
I love to get stuff like that from customers. Not to knock my service advisors, but sometimes they don't get me enough information to properly identify some problems.
 

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I had the exact same thing happen to me today. But first, some history ...

Back in the summer I was pulling into a mall and the radio shut off, the air quit blowing cold, the windows stopped working, etc. I parked it and discovered my key wouldn't release. Not wanting to leave the car in mall parking lot with the key in it, I just waited, kept trying, and eventually it started.

Then a couple months later in my driveway the car wouldn't start. I could hear the fuel pump energize but it wasn't turning over or anything. Again, the key couldn't be removed. Being at home, I disconnected the battery, connected it again, and all was well. Well, almost: the express up on my power windows quit working. So now I carry a 5/16" wrench with me at all times.

So today I'm coming back from the cottage. I get gas and when I restart the car I see the temp and fuel gauges are at the bottom. Uh oh, here we go again. I shut it off, restart it, and it goes for a few hundred metres and then the DIC says "service security system" or something like that, then the radio shuts off, DIC goes blank, power accessories don't work, and all gauges stop. I had to drive 2+ hours that way (fortunately the heater still worked). I didn't want to try shutting it off and try disconnecting the battery just in case it didn't work and I'd be stranded 2 hours from home. But when I got home I disconnected it and it was back to normal.

I read a review (I think of the SRX) in Car and Driver and a similar thing happened to them. Caddy ended up replacing the computer. Mine's going in the shop this week, and they can look at the rear-end too. BTW, my car is completely stock so they can't blame it on anything I've done.
 

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I got my car back from the dealer today. Their conclusion: bad ground / loose connections. I kinda believe it, but I guess only time will tell.

On a related note, it was interesting driving their 2.8 CTS loaner car and mine back-to-back. It seems like GM programs the 2.8's throttle for more aggressive tip-in whereas my 3.6 is more gentle. You really notice the difference in torque between the two engines too. I'd call the 2.8 "adequate" whereas I think the 3.6 is better than average.

Also the difference in tires. The loaner had the stock RS-As and I have Dunlop Graspic winter tires. On the same roads on the same day, it's a considerable difference. When the RS-As get sliding, they like to keep going. When the Dunlops get sliding, the come right back in line after the throttle closes. The RS-As just feel greasy. And of course straight-line acceleration was markedly better with the Dunlops too. I was almost worried about getting up my driveway with the loaner car. Reminds me of how bad my CTS was last year (before I bought winter tires) and reinforces my decision to spend $600 on a good set of snows this year.
 
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