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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Discussion Starter #1
This is my winter project to convert the car (’97 STS) from Delco stock audio system to BOSE.
If anybody is interested in such a project here are the highlights:
Every single device part of the audio system needs to be changed (except the CD Changer, Power Antenna, and Cell Phone Module). That includes also rewiring the entire sound system component (including CD Changer and Cell Phone Module).
To be more specific:
- HU will be changed with BOSE HU
- All 4 speakers will be changed with BOSE speakers (w/amplifiers)
- RIM Module to be added to the system
- 2 AMP relays to be added to the Relay cluster No3 (Electronics bay)
- 20A AMP fuse to be added to the Trunk fuse center
- New harness to be fabricated.

For the HU I chose to go (for now) with a ’99 Eldorado (theftlock) BOSE unit (P# 09354806). The ‘99 BOSE HU has in dash CD, Radio (with RDS!) and Tape.
For Speakers I went with BOSE rears (P#16219099), front BOSE I am still looking for.
For RIM I went with ’98 and up Eldorado BOSE RIM (P#16246666).
Basically the sound system will be (with the exception of the front speakers) same as in ’98 and up Eldorados.
The two AMP relays are the ones controlling the power for the amplifiers (located behind each speaker). One relay is powering the left side and the other one is powering the right side amplifiers. The RIM via a control (ON/OFF) wire controls both relays and the HU is controlling the RIM via the Data class II wires.
The AMP fuse needs to be added to the trunk fuse center to power the AMPs thorough the AMP relays.
For the harness very few wires are to be preserved from the stock setup. These wires are: The HU positive voltage supply wire and GND, the HU 2 data wires, the interior lights 2 wires, the antenna remote wire, the E+C data wire for the CD Changer and the CD changer power and ground.
The following wires can not be used: CD Changer audio output to HU, all (8) speakers wires and the Cell Phone audio output to HU wires.
To preserve the usable wires and not to cut ANY factory wire I made an extension (or adapter) from the stock HU connector to the new HU connector using a male and female 32 pins connector (1 to 1 connection). The following wires are preserved:
F1 – Power (+)
F4 – Interior lamps 16V reference
F5 – Interior lamps
F6 – Data class II
E6 – Data class II
F3 – Antenna power
E1 – E+C data line
F5 – Light GND
E16 – Ground
The female part of the adapter will receive extra wires:
HU:E12 to RIM C1:B5 – Left Audio + (22 AWG ~20 feet)
HU:E13 to RIM C1:B4 – Left Audio - (22 AWG ~20 feet)
HU:E14 to --- – Left Audio shield (22 AWG BARE ~20 feet)
*These wires are all taped in aluminum foil for shielding. The Shield wire runs along the entire length of the harness to be in contact with the aluminum foil for shielding purposes. The cable is wrapped in electrical tape for insulation.
HU:F15 to RIM C1:B7 – Right Audio + (22 AWG ~20 feet)
HU:F14 to RIM C1:B6 – Right Audio - (22 AWG ~20 feet)
HU:E15 to --- – Right Audio shield (22 AWG BARE ~20 feet)
See * above
HU:F12 to RIM C2: D13 – Chime Audio + (22 AWG ~20 feet)
HU:F13 to RIM C2: D12 – Chime Audio - (22 AWG ~20 feet)
HU:F11 to --- – Chime Audio shield (22 AWG BARE ~20 feet)
See * above
The old wires for the speakers can not be used for two reasons: 1 the speaker wires start from the RIM (not from HU as in the standard system) and the wires are not shielded (BOSE needs shielded wires since is low signal). Here are the new wires:
RIM C1:A11 to LHF Speaker: B Audio – (22 AWG ~18 feet)
RIM C1:A12 to LHF Speaker:C Audio + (22 AWG ~18 feet)
RIM C1:B12 to LHF Speaker --- Shield (22 AWG bare ~18 feet)
See * above
G400 to LHF Speaker: D AMP GND (18 AWG ~10 feet)
LH BOSE Relay:B3 to LHF Speaker:A AMP power + (18 AWG ~22 feet)

RIM C1:A8 to RHF Speaker: B Audio – (22 AWG ~13 feet)
RIM C1:A9 to RHF Speaker:C Audio + (22 AWG ~13 feet)
RIM C1:A10 to RHF Speaker --- Shield (22 AWG bare ~13 feet)
See * above
G400 to RHF Speaker: D AMP GND (18 AWG ~8 feet)
RH BOSE Relay:C1 to RHF Speaker:A AMP power + (18 AWG ~17 feet)

RIM C1:A5 to LHR Speaker: B Audio – (22 AWG ~7 feet)
RIM C1:A6 to LHR Speaker:C Audio + (22 AWG ~7 feet)
RIM C1:A7 to LHR Speaker --- Shield (22 AWG bare ~7 feet)
See * above
G400 to LHR Speaker: D AMP GND (18 AWG ~10 feet)
LH BOSE Relay:B3 to RHF Speaker:A AMP power + (18 AWG ~10 feet)

RIM C1:A2 to RHR Speaker: B Audio – (22 AWG ~7 feet)
RIM C1:A3 to RHR Speaker:C Audio + (22 AWG ~7 feet)
RIM C1:A4 to RHR Speaker --- Shield (22 AWG bare ~7 feet)
See * above
G400 to RHR Speaker: D AMP GND (18 AWG ~8 feet)
RH BOSE Relay:C1 to RHR Speaker:A AMP power + (18 AWG ~8 feet)

For the CD Changer audio wires the power wires (pins from 5, 7 and 10 stay) and the audio wires from 1 to 4 will need to be removed and replaced with a harness to the RIM:
CD Changer:1 to RIM:C1-B8 L Audio + (22 AWG ~7 feet)
CD Changer:2 to RIM:C1-B11 R Audio + (22 AWG ~7 feet)
CD Changer:3 to RIM:C1-B9 Audio - (22 AWG ~7 feet)
CD Changer:4 to RIM:--- Shield (22 AWG bare ~7 feet)
See * above
In order not to cut any factory wire I used an extra CD changer 10 pins female connector and removed the power wires from the factory one. The factory connector will have only the stock audio wires and is disabled.
Same with the Cell phone module audio wires:
Cell Phone Module:U to RIM:C2-D15 Cell Phone Audio – (22 AWG ~5 feet)
Cell Phone Module:T to RIM:C2-D14 Cell Phone Audio – (22 AWG ~5 feet)
Cell Phone Module:V to RIM:--- Cell Phone Audio – (22 AWG ~5 feet)
See * above

The RIM power wires are:
RIM:C1-B1 to Radio Fuse:B3 RIM power (+) (18 AWG ~9 feet)
RIM:C1-A1 to G401 RIM GND (18 AWG ~10 feet)

Bose Relay wires
Lots of short wires between the relay and AMP fuse refer to the ’97 FSM 8A-150-9 for details. All wires are 18 AWG no longer than 1.5 feet. The control GND is G401 ~12 feet.

RIM Data wires, the ones that make everything work together are coming from the RFA module (by relocating the wire from CVRSS:C1-D4 to the RIM C1:B3). Then the RIM:C1-B2 will be connected to CVRSS:C1-D4 closing the network loop with a 22AWG ~2 feet wire.


Bellow are the harness pictures.


From the above paragraph results that most of the harness consists of 2 (or 3 wires) shielded sub harnesses wrapped together (per sections) in electrical tape.
The routing of the harness as deduced from pictures is (starting from HU) HU to the left side of the car (near parking brake area) the 3 HU audio harnesses (Audi L, Audio R and Chime). From the Parking break area to the rear seat (running along the left side of the car) are the 3 HU harnesses + the FL Speaker (Audio - shielded harness +Amp power). The harness will cross the car from left to right under the rear seat. This is where the G400 (AMP GND) and G401 (RIM + Relay Control GND) are bolted to the car body. The FR Speaker harness (Audio - shielded harness +Amp power) will join the main harness at the right side of the rear seat. The AMP GND wire will run to G400 while the rest of the wires will go along the rear right wheel arch into the trunk (electronic bay). At the entry into the trunk (right side of the car) the harness will also join with the CD changer harness, Cell Phone Module audio wires and the Rear speaker harnesses. Majority of the wires (audio) will run to the RIM (center of the electronics bay) while the rest (AMP power) will run to the relays (on the left side of the electronics bay).

At this moment the harness is not installed in the car (hope my measurements were accurate).
The reason for the BOSE conversion is to actually “lay the foundation” for the NAV unit. For this reason I also ran data wires to the CD changer witch in the NAV setup will be controlled with the car data bus rather than the E+C data line (also the CD changer needs to be changed at this point).
If anybody is interested in this conversion as you see is not easy by no means, but fell free to ask more details (I have the exact wire length color gauges and destinations in a .xls file). You will also need an FSM, 2 pages of simple diagrams worth about 10 pages of how to tutorial.
You will need one male 32 pin HU connector, one 32 pin HU female connector, the 4 BOSE speaker connectors, the 2 RIM female connectors, one CD changer female connector. I would recommend to have one extra GM female connector (I used the connectors for the ‘94-’95 RIM) for eventual needed pins (but you can use any female connector with same pins). Other materials, about ~$120 worth of 18 and 22 gauge wire spools in various colors wires, about 5 rolls of black electrical tape and one roll of aluminum foil tape (for shielding). You can change all the shielded harnesses with shielded cables (much cheaper and less time consuming) but you loose the factory-like build (if that matter).

CAUTION! this is only for ‘96-’97 STS/SLS and ’96 and up Eldorado with stock Delco sound system. The front speakers are different between STS/SLS and Eldorado. Other than that all connections are the same. Do not start unless you have an FSM.
 

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78 FWB d'Elegance, 92 deVille, 93 Seville, 06 DTS
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Just out of total curiousity what made you decide to go with a factory bose replacement system? I too considered this and after looking at what it would take ultimatly decided to invest the same amount of time and money to do a very factory looking aftermarket system (admitdly the dash work was easier as I was working with a 93, however getting 3-way components into my rear deck and doors without being seen took a little magic).

Not meant as a challange, just like to know people reasonings
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Discussion Starter #3
Reason 1 – I want to retrofit the Denso NAV unit (if only Jason can find me one) and BOSE is a requirement.
Reason 2 – BOSE is the best you can get in a Cadillac witch in turns is among the best you can get in terms of car.
Reason 3 – NO AFTERMARKET FOR ME!!!!!!I want the car to look like NOTHING was changed.
Reason 4 – I am an electronics engineer and I like once in a while a little challenge.
Reason 5 – I was always frustrated reading in the owner’s manual about the extra functions you get with BOSE. But that’s just a matter of human nature. Maybe this should be renamed as reason 0 or THE reason.
 

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78 FWB d'Elegance, 92 deVille, 93 Seville, 06 DTS
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WOW...now I feel like I wimped out =)
Seriously, I am very happy with how mine ended up, but I can also VERY much appreciate the angle you have taken on your project....I think if mine were a 97 I would probably have leaned more that direction as the radio & console are much more integrated...on the 92-95 its just your average double-din shoved in above the ashtray, so I can honestly say I think the custom bezel & mounting (along with the generation correct crest and script) actually looks like it shoulld have when it came from the factory...and when I finish leather wrapping the interior (stock 2-tone shale) I think it will look like a caddy should have before GM started all of its cost cutting.

Enjoy your project and best of luck, I truly think its awesome that you are keeping it as stock as possible; there is deffinatly a certian amount of class to that.
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Discussion Starter #5
UPDATE:
Ok, today was THE day, I spent roughly 6 hours to run the BOSE harness through the car. I followed religiously the factory specifications. The hardest part was to pass the harness in the wire trays in the area under the front seats seat belt and the area in the vicinity of the parking break (the point where it splits in the part going to the drivers door speaker and the part going to the HU). I dare a technician from the assembly line (witch by the way seems to be redheaded judging by the hair on the electrical tape) to inspect the car for 20 minutes and tell me if he/she see anything different.
Here are some pictures:


This is the rear right door area wire tray (under the rear seat). You can see the harness coming from the trunk and it spites in the main core harness running across the car under the rear seat and the little branch running along the right side of the car to the front right door.


This is the wire tray assembled once the harness was in. I matched the factory electrical tape used to secure the tray close (is an overkill because the tray has some clips holding the two parts together).


Here is a detail of the left side of the car (rear door area) where the harness makes a 90 degree turn towards the front of the car. Notice the cross car wire corelock end sealed with electrical tape (just like factory) and the electrical tape holding wires together inside the tray (I used the exact same spots as the ones from factory).


This is the finished left side of the car (tray closed harness secured in)


I also managed to run the cross car part of the harness in the factory corelock. Initially I was planing to use a second smaller corelock but I am so much happier with this solution (looks factory). Ok I know the grounds S connectors are not factory like, I had to double up the G400 and G401 grounds because the last thing I wanted to do is splice into some wire).


This is the part of the harness coming out of the rear right wire tray and crossing into the trunk to the electronics bay. Notice anything? No, that’s right! The harness is secured on the corelock running up along the rear right wheel well. Also this is the point where the harness splits in the part that runs to the rear speakers, CD changer and Cell phone connector (mentioned before) and the part that runs to the RIM, fuses and relays.


And here is the final product. Observe the routings for the RIM wires and amp relay. I choose to leave the last 16 inches of RIM harness in individual strands (just like the factory). Also is secured to the electronics tray using the factory clip (middle-left of the image).


This is the electronics bay viewed from the trunk.
After all this work, the car looks exactly as before I started, witch was the whole idea. Now the harness is in running in the correct running paths.
Next is to take the front door panels out and replace the base speakers with BOSE, remove again the rear seat and the rear shelf to replace the rear speakers. Take the base HU out and drop in the BOSE one. Not before I modify the BOSE HU, I need to replace all the lights with the same white LEDs I used for al the dashboard, and add the auxiliary input thing (because I can not imagine the car without).
Then is the dealer visit to have the VIN removed from the HU.
Now once all this is done (thus I have BOSE) is time to clean the dust from the Denso NAV unit and tackle that project.
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Discussion Starter #7
but to be honest, the Delco is great for me
Same here, when I bought my car I traded the sound for the mileage. I am doing-it just because I am in this trade (electronics) and I will appreciate the BOSE better than if it was on the car to begin with.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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N*, I don't envy you, but glad it worked out OK. Let this be a lesson to the folks who would "quickly swap in" an aftermarket unit..................A picture is worth 1,000 words.
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Discussion Starter #9
Wait until you hear the dollar numbers…I am just shy of two grand up to now(including the Denso NAV unit). There was nothing under $100 (maybe the relays).
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Nope, not that is generation 1 CD based pretty complicated to retrofit (lots of wires). The one you should look for is Denso DVD based. Is simpler to work with and much up to date. To get one…$80 from bone yards (with luck) up to $850 brand new (of e-bay).
If I would be living 60 miles south (in states) the how to find one would not be a problem you have no idea how lucky you are living in states (car parts price/quality/ease to find wise) and climate wise (especially for you in TX). But some day…
But for now don’t buy anything! I had no success with the NAV unit so far and know nobody to had it working on a ‘96-’97 Seville or any Eldorado.
 

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1997 Eldorado
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Nope, not that is generation 1 CD based pretty complicated to retrofit (lots of wires). The one you should look for is Denso DVD based. Is simpler to work with and much up to date. To get one…$80 from bone yards (with luck) up to $850 brand new (of e-bay).
If I would be living 60 miles south (in states) the how to find one would not be a problem you have no idea how lucky you are living in states (car parts price/quality/ease to find wise) and climate wise (especially for you in TX). But some day…
But for now don’t buy anything! I had no success with the NAV unit so far and know nobody to had it working on a ‘96-’97 Seville or any Eldorado.
isnt there a guy on here with a 97 eldorado with that nav installed? or maybe it was a sevilleits nice if i could find one i would get rid of my aftermarket one asap
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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...............curious that no one has asked why some of the harness is twisted pairs and quads.......
 

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1999 White Diamond ETC
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isnt there a guy on here with a 97 eldorado with that nav installed? or maybe it was a sevilleits nice if i could find one i would get rid of my aftermarket one asap
A little bird told me that the gen 1 Nav, has no touchscreen, and they never reissued the maps (so it's a time machine back to 1998-2001, road-wise).
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Is all about reducing the noise...
All audio wires in the harness are twisted pairs wrapped in aluminum foil tape (the kind used in air conditioning). Then over the tape I twisted one non-insolated conductor (shield) because I can not rely on tightly wrapped aluminum tape not to crack during harness installation somewhere along the 30 feet or so of length (in some cases). Then each strand is wrapped in black electrical tape (the most expensive I could find) and then all strands are wrapped together in same electrical tape. The whole assembly is pretty stiff thus hard to bend. I assume the last portion of the harness (near the RIM) is individual strands for this reason.
The OEM harness is wrapped in aluminum coated mylar tape, it is equivalent with what I used only is manufacture friendly and less prone to crack. Well I guess on the assembly line speed is the word, while I had all winter to work on the harness (and is a looooooooooong winter here in Canada).
As mentioned in the first post, all audio wires are 22AWG and all power wires are 18AWG. I also used 18AWG for the control wires (like the amp relay controls), is little over killed since the only wire required to be 18AWG is the Amp relays line wire (from the AMP fuse) carrying all 4 amps current. I could just buy audio cable and not to bother with all that wrapping but my goal was not just to work, but to work and look OEM.
 

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Is all about reducing the noise...
All audio wires in the harness are twisted pairs wrapped in aluminum foil tape (the kind used in air conditioning). Then over the tape I twisted one non-insolated conductor (shield) because I can not rely on tightly wrapped aluminum tape not to crack during harness installation somewhere along the 30 feet or so of length (in some cases). Then each strand is wrapped in black electrical tape (the most expensive I could find) and then all strands are wrapped together in same electrical tape. The whole assembly is pretty stiff thus hard to bend. I assume the last portion of the harness (near the RIM) is unwrapped for this reason.
The OEM harness is wrapped in aluminum coated mylar tape, it is equivalent with what I used only is manufacture friendly and less prone to crack. Well I guess on the assembly line speed is the word, while I had all winter to work on the harness (and is a looooooooooong winter here in Canada).
As mentioned in the first post, all audio wires are 20AWG and all power wires are 18AWG. I also used 18AWG for the control wires (like the amp relay controls), is little over killed since the only wire required to be 18AWG is the Amp relays line wire (from the AMP fuse) carrying all 4 amps current. I could just buy audio cable and not to bother with all that wrapping but my goal was not just to work, but to work and look OEM.
Thanks for the answer! Speaking of aluminum tape, when I tapped into the Onstar rearview mirror, I noticed the microphone wire was wrapped in that aluminum tape, inside tough electrical tape. I decided not to tamper with that, and tapped into it closer to the plug to the mirror itself.

Then, the test... Voice recognition. The AVIC could NOT recognize what I was saying. :eek: I then called myself at work, and played back the message--I sounded like C3PO--cool effect, but undesirable. I plugged in the stock Pioneer mic in the middle of that call and the difference was night and day.

Could it be that the microphone is on another frequency and some kind of DSP at the VCM (VCIM) processes it? I just don't think it's a cheap mic. I think I read somewhere that someone put a resistor or capacitor on it and it helped, but I can't find that post! The Bluestar folks don't seem to have a problem that's why I think there's something going on in the circuitry.

In the meantime I have the 1/32" plug and wire (an RCA audio wire, that I soldered onto a 1/32" plug on one end and tapped into the Onstar microphone on the other end. Lucky I didn't butcher the stock mic (sounds crystal clear).

Sorry about the sidetrack, but wanted to update you and get your expertise.
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Discussion Starter #19
Well as long as you don’t interrupt the tape (although a shield wire surrounds the tape) is no problem. The capacitor will reduce the lows and accentuate the highs while a resistor will reduce the level. My guess the problem is the level (it might be to low). Another aspect to consider is the impedance matching.
 

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1997 Cadillac STS (BOSE w/AUX In, Massage Seats, URPAS, "Z")
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Discussion Starter #20
Today was one of the big days, I installed the BOSE HU, the AUX Input box I fabricated last week, the front speakers, I made all the connections to the HU harness (where I have the AUX box) and all the remaining connections in the back to the RIM, relays and fuses. I relocated the data wire (pin D5) from the CVRSS module to the RIM (pin ) and closed the network loop with a data wire from RIM (pin ) basically is a days chain witch now includes the RIM.
Unfortunately the day was not long enough to have the rear speaker installed (I started around 2PM). That would be something for tomorrow,at least I have all the power and data flowing as it should.
Obviously I have the THEFT LOCK message on the screen (until Tuesday when I have the car scheduled for the TECHII at the local dealer).
Funny thing happened after all was installed, I mean the data wires were connected, the power was ready (I repined the fuse cluster in the trunk since non-BOSE cars are missing the fuse, pins and wires). So as mentioned all was ready to go, but no chimes, "huh" - I said to myself - "that is odd, I was expecting the theftlock to let the chimes working" so at some point I went to look for my screws (I was missing one for the right door speaker) and while grabbing the screw I prepared earlier I also notice a green fuse next to it. Well I grabbed the screw and I was walking towards the car to install-it thinking "what a nice green color is that AAA fuse" and then clicked - 30A fuse, same as the one for the amps, and then "wait a minute that is the 30 Amp fuse I also prepared earlier to be connected to the amps!" Yup is exactly what I did, wired everything but forgot to put the fuse. And off course the AMP code was gone once I connected the data wires (loop was closed) and no more codes.
So installed the new AMP fuse on the fuse cluster and "BEEP, BEEP, BEEP" the first BOSE sound in my car (the key in the ignition and the door opened):
YAHOOOOOOOO! :bouncy:​
So for now I know the HU woks (at least the chime circuit) the RIM works, data wires are all good, the front left amp works plus the relays and everything else. I still have to see if my AUX input box is working (can test it unless I have the theft lock thing removed and obviously the other 3 speakers)
As a side note, the chime sound from the BOSE setup sounds slightly different from the one in the base setup, it is a little bit higher (like half a note or so). I would not noticed if I was not aware of the different hardware but still there is a slight difference.
Here are some pictures from today:
This is the harness for the AUX input (with the AUX box - lots off PCB designing, etching, drilling soldering). The box sits right behind the HU and that harness ending with the white connector goes to the cigarette lighter area. That is where I had my AUX input connector starting with the base unit. The thick harness ending with 3 strands (two connected to the box) is the audio harness between HU and RIM, the two connected strands are left and right audio signal while the one not connected to the AX box (goes straight to the HU is the chime.
Here is the HU installed in (notice the LEDs and it communicates with the CD changer - see the sources)
Here is the BOSE speaker.

And this is the LAST picture of a non-BOSE Cadillac.

yeah I washed the car before starting the job...

I had so much fun working on the conversion that at some point I just shut down my phone (after 2-3 distrupting phone calls), I would say today was a good day!
 
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