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I read somewhere that this car has the stereo that automatically makes the volume louder if there's a lot of noise - like wind noise.. Is this true?

Otherwise.. Are there any steps to take while upgrading the stereo system? Is it as complicated as a newer Cadillac would be? Bose and all that? I don't think this Caddy has Bose.. Am I wrong? I like my music LOUD so I was considering one bass speaker in the trunk and all upgraded speakers inside. I'll need an amp... If I could, I'd like to leave the stock head - but can I?

Thanks...
 

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Sal Collaziano said:
I read somewhere that this car has the stereo that automatically makes the volume louder if there's a lot of noise - like wind noise.. Is this true?

Otherwise.. Are there any steps to take while upgrading the stereo system? Is it as complicated as a newer Cadillac would be? Bose and all that? I don't think this Caddy has Bose.. Am I wrong? I like my music LOUD so I was considering one bass speaker in the trunk and all upgraded speakers inside. I'll need an amp... If I could, I'd like to leave the stock head - but can I?

Thanks...
Sal, your first and easiest step would be to upgrade the speakers and see if you like it. The fronts are 5.25" separates with a 2" tweeter (heh) in front of the door pull. The rears are odd sized, like a 9" round speaker in an oval bucket. I used Kenwood eXcleon 5.25"s up front and Kicker K69 6x9's in the rear. In retro spect, I would have upgraded to 6.5" components up front, and will do that when money allows.

If you want to add a sub, you'll need A LOT of sub, and a BIIIIIIG amp. And you'll need a new head unit. which means you'll need to make your own dash kit, or adapt one to fit, cuz no one makes an adapter... And the head unit is just a control face, the actual meat and potatoes of the radio is in the trunk, on the rear firewall. You'll need to run all new wiring for the speakers and amp and all to upgrade it.

But, these cars are so well insulated that no bass will make it into the cab. At least, that's what I found. I had 2 square 12" kickers in the trunk (in correct sized ported enclosure) firing towards the rear with about 500W going to them and it SLAMMED outside the car, with the trunk open, but shut the trunk, and non of the bass made it into the car. I even ported the rear deck and that didn't really help.

Right now, I'm happy with the kicker 6x9's. They hit like a couple 10's, so it works for me. I'm running an Alpine head unit with an Alpine 4 channel amp. Seems ok, but could use some more bass. I plan to mount a pair of 10" JL IB4's in the rear deck soon. I think free airs are going to be the way to go... (I don't want to lose any trunk space, either) But those subs were the ONLY decent free airs around, and are now discontinued...
 

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Sal,
The front speakers are 5.25" mids in the bottom of the doors, .75" tweeters in the upper panels, and 8" round extended-range speakers in the back deck. The problem you'll have with just replacing the speakers with new ones is the impedance of the speakers. The OEM stuff is odd by aftermarket standards. The front speakers are 4 ohm and the rear deck speakers are 10 ohm. I would talk to Soundadvantage here on the forum about his thoughts concerning aftermarket replacements that won't roast your OEM amp. As for some peoples recommendation (not just Bills, many people have said the same thing), I would say that if you use proper components, and install them properly, the Fleetwood trunk is more than capable of producing GOBS of base/sub-base with a relatively small driver. I use one 10" sub in a ported box and have to keep it turned WAY down. And I can still EASILY make people exit my car with ringing ears. So I'm never quite sure why so many people seem to think you need HUGE subs, sometimes more than one, and HUGE amps just to get good base. :confused:
 

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Congratulations on your 95' Fleetwood Sal! Looks Real Nice, and i like the color too ;) Well this is just my opinion on the sound system but keep in mind, There are Many opinions in this business and there is no Best of Anything > Installing the right combination of "matched" components including amps and subwoofers will decide on how good your system performs. I just Uninstalled all of my old gear and i am getting ready to install a 6000 watt system in my Cadillac> do i need that much power? Not really but there is alot of competition out there.
I alway's tell people, set your system up like a Nascar so it can run hard all the time without heating up > NOT like a Dragster thats only good for a 1/4 mile. Sal on my car i started with taking the old factory speakers out 1st and replacing them with all 4ohm coaxials, then i replaced the stereo next and i added a 800 watt 4 channel amp for all the new speakers, that gave me 200 watts per speaker for my highs, Then i had to run a 4guage wire kit from the battery to the trunk into a 2 fuse block that would allow me to run 2 amps > i also chose to run 12 ga. speaker wire from the 4 ch. amp to all the speakers and i added a 3-way electronic Crossover with a Bass remote. So that made a BIG difference in my sound, then finally i added a 1000 watt Sub amp and a dual voice coil 12" sub with 500 watts going to each voice coil in a Sealed box that gave me Plenty of bass. Most people i know Piece their systems together and carefully pick out each item, then they either add them as they go or wait untill they have everything and install it all at once. Oh yea if you want to keep the Factory stereo you can buy a L.O.C. Line Out Converter that wires into the speaker wires on your stereo and gives you two sets of RCAs to run to your amps. :spin:
 

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Kevin... What sub are you using? Got pics of the enclosure? Did you build it yourself? I am very curious to see what you did as I have been having a LOT of trouble getting the sound into the cabin... But I did do a LOT of insulating too, in addition to the stock caddy sound deadening while chasing a drone issue...
 

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I used a 10" Sony X-Plode with a ported Q-Logic box, powered via a Lightning Audio 300watt amp. I used a high-powered cross-over for the sub so I'm only dumping <150K into it and powered the amp via a 4ga cable direct from the battery for the 12+ and I used 4ga cable for the ground as well. The whole thing is mounted solidly to the trunk floor on the right-hand side firing into the center of the trunk. I did no other insulation in the trunk and only run the amp at about 40% power to maintain CLEAN power to the sub and to keep the amp cool.
 

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SoundStorm just sent me one of their New Stretch Daddy Amps > it's the D4002, The amp is Rated 2 x 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms and 2 x 400 watts @ 2 ohms or 800 watts MAX Bridged. Well I hooked it up to Two 700 watt 15" subs in a sealed box and was Very Impressed with the sound and the power it pushed "UnBridged" and the amps look real cool too they have "Cadillac Fins" on them! I am getting ready to install 1 of the D5004 4ch amps to my highs and 2 of the D10002 2ch. amps to 2 of their DC115DVC 15" subs "in a Sealed box" in my 87' Deville, When i fire it up Kevin should be able to hear me all the way to his house! :bonkers: Their amps are built by Robotic insertion, much more reliable than hand soldered equipment. I did cut a square section behind the back seat arm rest in my trunk out to help the bass get into the cabin area better, seemed to help alot but my car isn't insulated as well as the Fleetwood > Sounds like Bill is going to have to go with a DVC 12" sub or maybe a 15" to get the bass he wants to hear up front. :spin:
 

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i put a JL 15 W0 in a 6.0 cubic foot box with 150 watts to it for power. at first, it sounded okay. but i had to have all the gains and bass settings turned up to really feel the bass. the i removed the two plastic pieces behind the seats that hold all those computers and put the back together again. this allowed bass into the cabin a lot better. i was able to back down on the gains and turn the bass settings down. for now my system sounds pretty good. it should sound better when i put two JL 18 W3's in a 12.0 cubic foot ported box powered by a 1000/1. and yes, the box will fit. the key is, though, to remove all the garbage (besides the seat) that seperate the trunk from the cabin, fire the subs in to the car, and completely seal the front of the box from the trunk. this way, the cabin of the car acts as an enclosure. i just finished a system like this in another car and the bass was enough to make your throat hurt, but there was none of that annoying rattle on the outside of the car.
 

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Yeah, it's a good thing to run the amp gain low for two reasons;
first, the amp runs cooler, and second, the signal the sub gets will be cleaner and have less distortion. FYI, a lot of people still don't know that distortion is the biggest reason for failed drivers.
 

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Katshot said:
Yeah, it's a good thing to run the amp gain low for two reasons;
first, the amp runs cooler, and second, the signal the sub gets will be cleaner and have less distortion. FYI, a lot of people still don't know that distortion is the biggest reason for failed drivers.
This is so true > it's usually not the power that blows the sub it IS "Distortion" Also when you Bridge an amp you draw 50% more current than with it UnBridged, alot of times the current draw is so great that the vehicles charging system can't keep up with it and the amp or amps begin to run Real Hot and their Distortion levels skyRocket, then your subs voice coil heats up next and if your lucky you might pop a wire lead At the Terminal, if your not so lucky the lead will come off next to the cone or just cook the coil. So with all this said what have we learned here? "Tuning is Everything" as well as wiring your subs to your amps at the proper OHM Load! By the way you never stop learning and when it comes to Electronics, Anything is possible.
 

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Another point that many people don't realize is that these BIG-AMP, HIGH-POWER systems are very temperature sensitive. In cold weather, you should allow the system to stabilize (warm up) prior to applying large loads on it (cranking the volume) because prior to the system stabilizing, distortion is very common. Also, you need to pay attention to the other extreme too. When I mentioned running the amp cooler, I did so for a reason. As the amp heats up (above normal operating temp), it's performance drops off severely and damage can occur. That's why many ultra-level systems are utilizing a liquid cooling system to stabilize operating temps. One way to help your amp(s) stay cool is to watch the way you install it. Don't bury it where it can't "breath", mount it with the cooling fins facing up, if mounting on a vertical surface (like the back of a seat), mount it so the rows of fins run up and down instead of side to side. And of course, as I said, try to kep the gain down. If you are running the amp towards the top of its gain scale to obtain the power you want or need, you need a bigger amp. A 500w amp will provide the same amount of power at a much lower gain setting than a 300w amp will, and it will do it more reliably, run cooler, and provide "cleaner" power to the driver(s) which in turn will provide better sound quality, and extend their service life.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you for all the input.. Well.. I wont be putting huge system in this car. I just want something better.. I don't even think I'll go as far as having any bass speakers at all.. I think some really good 6x9s will give me what I want - they have in the past. So.. Will any specific 6x9s just slip right in and sound better right off the bat?
 

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Nope. The rear deck speakers are round, not the same shape or size as the 6x9's. If you intend to replace the rear speakers with 6x9's, you'll need to make an adapter plate of some sort. Just make sure you seal it real well to prevent air from getting around the speaker, and keep the whole thing from vibrating.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay. Here's what I'd like to do...

Kenwood KFC-P505ie 5-1/4" Component System
• 5-1/4" whisker-pearl mica injection-molded polypropylene woofers with rubber surrounds
• 3/4" soft dome tweeters
• external crossovers
• frequency response 40-25,000 Hz
• power range 8-40 watts RMS - $149.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zh3XKZ5Rwr4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=10&g=76300&I=113KFCP505&o=p&a=1&cc=01&avf=Y&search=

Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 1
• 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer
• Polypropylene cone
• foam surround
• 50-150W RMS power range • 20-200 Hz frequency response - Get two for $79.98 and save $40
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zh3XKZ5Rwr4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=10&g=67500&I=575P18S4&o=p&a=1&cc=01&avf=Y&search=

Does this: http://www.audio-discounters.com/gmk420.html - mean I can get a regular stereo instead of double din? Do I even need this if I do get a double din (I like having the ability to play cassettes and CDs).

Clarion ADB340MP CD/MP3/Cassette Receiver
• Double-DIN chassis
• MP3 and CD-R/W playback
• 17 watts RMS x 4
• Magi-Tune tuner
• Magna Bass EX
• Digital Sound Fields
• AUX input - $379.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zh3XKZ5Rwr4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=3&g=52600&I=020ADB340&o=p&a=0&cc=01&avf=N&search=

Which amp would work good at lowest price?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zh3XKZ5Rwr4/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?c=3&g=120&s=0&cc=01&avf=Y&search=
 

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Sal Collaziano said:
I read somewhere that this car has the stereo that automatically makes the volume louder if there's a lot of noise - like wind noise.. Is this true?Thanks...
Delco had a head unit that measured noise levels and adjusted the volume accordingly. My buddy has the H/U in his 97 Chevy 2500. It can be annoying as it responds to ALL noise, wind, road, engine, voices. Volume goes Up Down, Up Down.
 

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Sal
From your list of components I see only 3 channels. Are you going to but the Kenwood seperates in the front and rear? By the way those Kenwoods might not have the power you like. Yes they will play loud, but loud can mean a lot of things like distortion. I suggest a set up using seperates with a higher power rating. The thing is and I think every one will agree is that its better to have a reserve of power and speakers to handle it instead of listening levels that will approaching clipping due to low power and speakers that are attempting to reporduce sound levels with low amounts of power.

As far as the AMP GAIN, "low", The Amplifier gain is not a VOLUME control. It is purely a devise for leveling and mathcing the input voltage from the H/U or pre-amp unit. The sub does use the gain as anything. If the gain is not set at the rite voltage in relation to the source ie RCA, DIN,etc the amp will not run as efficient and may sound down rite crappy.

If you are looking to stick to 1 amplifier, you may want a 5 channel amp to run front
and rear channels 1-4 and channel 5 for the sub. The possibilities are relative to that big wallet of yours Sal.
 

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Sal Collaziano said:
Okay. Here's what I'd like to do...

Kenwood KFC-P505ie 5-1/4" Component System
• 5-1/4" whisker-pearl mica injection-molded polypropylene woofers with rubber surrounds
• 3/4" soft dome tweeters
• external crossovers
• frequency response 40-25,000 Hz
• power range 8-40 watts RMS - $149.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zh3XKZ5Rwr4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=10&g=76300&I=113KFCP505&o=p&a=1&cc=01&avf=Y&search=

Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 1
• 8" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer
• Polypropylene cone
• foam surround
• 50-150W RMS power range • 20-200 Hz frequency response - Get two for $79.98 and save $40
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zh3XKZ5Rwr4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=10&g=67500&I=575P18S4&o=p&a=1&cc=01&avf=Y&search=

Does this: http://www.audio-discounters.com/gmk420.html - mean I can get a regular stereo instead of double din? Do I even need this if I do get a double din (I like having the ability to play cassettes and CDs).

Clarion ADB340MP CD/MP3/Cassette Receiver
• Double-DIN chassis
• MP3 and CD-R/W playback
• 17 watts RMS x 4
• Magi-Tune tuner
• Magna Bass EX
• Digital Sound Fields
• AUX input - $379.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zh3XKZ5Rwr4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=3&g=52600&I=020ADB340&o=p&a=0&cc=01&avf=N&search=

Which amp would work good at lowest price?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zh3XKZ5Rwr4/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?c=3&g=120&s=0&cc=01&avf=Y&search=
Hello Sal,
I just looked at all the equipment links you posted. Well if you plan on keeping your Fleetwood then don't waste your Money on those models your looking at. Instead spend a "little" more $$$ and purchase some Far Better Sound Quality components/tweeters subs and amps to achieve a superb sound. The hot setup is a 4ch. amp for your highs, and a mono amp or two ch. amp for your subs. I would recommend two 12" dvc subs for ample bass in your HUGE trunk :D Here are 3 of my top pics, you study these products and check back with me ok. There should also be quite a few Dealers for these products in Fla. close to home. So you can "Hear them" :) Let me know Sal.

http://www.diamondaudio.com

http://www.usamps.com

http://www.koveaudio.com
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the replies, guys. I really need this help.. Now I'm going to take a look at those three links - but keep in mind that I'm really looking to go as economical as possible - while still getting good sound. My Fiance has a Sony X-Plode deck in her car and I think stock Volkswagen Passat speakers - and her car sounds amazing.. I don't believe there's any amp (it's not the Monsoon system). She's got good bass, too.. No 10s, 12s or anything.

I know I can get this kind of bass out of a good 8 inch speaker. Unfortunately, I don't have a budget for this. I'm going to have to take a little from this and that in order to get anything going. I can't afford a "system" right now - I just want something that can get my by without being too embarrassed to turn-up the volume...
 
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