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stereo external input upgrade Bluetooth/USB test install results

3.7K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  Lifespeed  
#1 · (Edited)
After reading about the few options available to upgrade the obsolete infotainment (I have the HDD w. nav), I decided to go with an external DAC that accepts the very best Bluetooth 5.0 audio codecs like LDAC and APTX HD, as well as USB On The Go (OTG) wired input for lossless playback when I feel the need to preserve the full DVD-Audio sound quality.

So here is the Topping D50s DAC just laying on the seat with 12V to 5V DC-DC converter plugged into the 12V console port, RCA-to-3.5mm cord to the console aux input, USB-C to USB 2.0 Type B cable and SMA RF jack for the Bluetooth antenna.

Sound quality is fantastic! There was no hiss or noise when the DAC wasn't playing music. Bluetooth using LDAC sounded excellent. Had I not also had the USB cord for comparison playing a 96/24 file I would have thought the Bluetooth was perfect, but the lossless USB transfer did show a slight improvement. I think even an audiophile would probably be satisfied with BT audio using this DAC, especially given the humble pedigree of the Bose stereo.

The volume levels using the external DAC seem to be slightly higher than the internal Bose XM radio as a comparison. The 2V RMS line out of the DAC is more than adequate to properly drive the aux input. While testing I tried the DAC at full volume, then settled on a slight reduction at -2.0dB in the DAC. More use will tell the tale, but it may be the DAC will run at full volume, while the stereo volume control is adjusted to suit.

Given the Topping DAC relies on the latest digital formats, the phone one pairs with it will be important. Both digital storage capacity, preferably expandable microSD, and support of not only BT 5.0 but LDAC and/or APTX HD as well as USB OTG are necessities to take advantage of the full capabilities of this device. I use the Samsung Note 20 Ultra 5G with a 512GB micro SD card containing my entire music collection in FLAC format, including a modest amount of high-res DVD-Audio and SACD music.

Next step is a proper install including cords to the RAM wireless charging mount near the A-pillar. I'm not sure where to install the 4-1/2" square by 1" deep DAC. Any ideas? It will ideally have line-of-sight for the IR remote, although this is not a strict necessity as the remote isn't used often - just for switching between BT and USB. The BT antenna must not be blocked by metal, although I can remote-mount the antenna if required using a coaxial cable extension.

Let me know of any mounting location suggestions.

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#3 ·
USB-A female in the console, no. That connects to the silver box and there is no reason to disable it. It doesn't serve much of a purpose, admittedly, as the old Bose infotainment is so limited. I want a USB-C connection near the driver's A pillar where I mount my phone, and that is an entirely separate cable to be added, terminating at the DAC.

I may simply plug the DAC into the aux input in the console. That way, should I ever want to plug in something other than my DAC it is easily available to unplug the DAC and plug in another source. Maybe it would be slick to install an A/B switch in the aux input cable to allow DAC or aux. Really not much of a use case for that, however. What else would I plug into the aux?
 
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#7 · (Edited)
The goal of this approach is good analog source quality, comprised of the ES9038Q2M DAC chip and other analog and digital circuitry that output a proper 2V line level with good clarity.

Plugging in a USB-C cable, while possible, doesn't change Navtool audio output quality. The USB-C connector has been standard on phones for a number of years, so installing anything else would be silly regardless of the need for 10Gbps data. In fact, the Topping DAC input is USB 2.0 so can only operate at 480Mbps. Which is fine for a DAC.
 
#8 ·
After a few days use I can report the integration with the factory stereo is seamless. Wireless or USB connections are quick, with the source mode selected with a flick of the toggle switch. Generally I just leave it on Bluetooth unless I'm doing a serious music listening session. With the wireless charger, connecting cords is optional (note the USB isn't in use). Just clip the phone in the mount and go. I'm using Android Auto for Phone Screens.

I couldn't come up with a better DAC mounting location than the side of the console.
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#9 ·
An update to confirm the phone Bluetooth connects simultaneously to both the Nav radio as well as the DAC. Phone calls are handled through the Nav radio exactly as before, using the steering wheel buttons. Music playback from the phone is paused during a call, which is default Android behavior. Other than using a different (and arguably better) screen for playback of music files and navigation, it is much the same, only better.

If one knows how to configure a phone, it is possible to automate phone behavior changes to better integrate with this use case. For example, keep the screen on when on the windshield (connected to wireless charging AND car bluetooth).
 
#11 ·
I used to mount the Matter Disruptor there, but decided the stereo and GPS were more practical in daily use. How often do you really need to take out a Prius driver squatting in the fast lane?
 
#15 ·
It sounds really good, with wireless convenience if desired or lossless USB-C wired. But it does not make use of the OEM display. In my opinion these old infotainment systems are a train wreck. The less of it I use, the better. The Navtool folks came close, but the execution (again, in my opinion) is spotty with a low quality audio section that doesn't even output a proper line level signal. I can only imagine what shortcuts or bad engineering are in the DAC and preamp circuits.