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The following are the current issues with my 1993 Cadillac Deville electical system as of yesterday after i had my good friend clean my engine for me.

1. Check engine light is on
2. Speedo is stuck @ 30 mph
3. Fuel Information center NOT functional (meaning no lights in it at all)
4. Climate Information center NOT functional (no lights at all again)
5. Trip/Odometer NOT functional - No miles are being added as I drive

Upon checking my fuses the #7 fuse was blown, A 20 amp fuse everytime I replace, it blows as soon as I turn on the car (dont even have to start it). Seems to me I have a short somewhere, where do I begin? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

'93 Sedan Deville
Silver/Silver
143k
 

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chameleon said:
The following are the current issues with my 1993 Cadillac Deville electical system as of yesterday after i had my good friend clean my engine for me.

1. Check engine light is on
2. Speedo is stuck @ 30 mph
3. Fuel Information center NOT functional (meaning no lights in it at all)
4. Climate Information center NOT functional (no lights at all again)
5. Trip/Odometer NOT functional - No miles are being added as I drive

Upon checking my fuses the #7 fuse was blown, A 20 amp fuse everytime I replace, it blows as soon as I turn on the car (dont even have to start it). Seems to me I have a short somewhere, where do I begin? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

'93 Sedan Deville
Silver/Silver
143k
Wow, this all started with a steam clean or was this happening before hand.
about the fuse what is it for??????
Does it blow the fuse to shit or does it just break it????
 

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JJhomer83 said:
Wow, this all started with a steam clean or was this happening before hand.
about the fuse what is it for??????
Does it blow the fuse to shit or does it just break it????
This did not start happening until the steam clean

The fuse I know is for the climate control as well as fuel data center, so Im guessing (hoping) that the other problems are stemming from this one.

The fuse Blows everytime I turn the car on.
 

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chameleon said:
This did not start happening until the steam clean

The fuse I know is for the climate control as well as fuel data center, so Im guessing (hoping) that the other problems are stemming from this one.

The fuse Blows everytime I turn the car on.
well that is out of my knowledge. Sorry man. Someone else will chyme in
 

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chameleon said:
This did not start happening until the steam clean

The fuse I know is for the climate control as well as fuel data center, so Im guessing (hoping) that the other problems are stemming from this one.

The fuse Blows everytime I turn the car on.
Maybe you have some loose connections somewhere and the steam or water from the cleaning got in there causing the fuse to blow. If you think this could be the case, just wait a few days and see what happends. Just a thought......
 

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Well now I just took it out for a spin, got stuck at a train so I turned the car off. Had the radio on for no more than 5 minutes, went to start it, and it was a no go....it was obvious the battery was being drained extra or was not being recharged (I have a brand new interstate battery and have never had any known probs with the alternator). Had to have a friend come jump me, car got home fine. Now its sitting outside with the hook open attempting to dry out. At this point however, I don't have much faith.
 

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Water Gap

My guess is when it was steam cleaned some excess water seeped into some electrical components it shouldn't have and is still there. When you turn the ignition on electricity flows to its designated circuit but then the water (good conductor) then bridges it to others. Time is your best friend on theis one let it dry for a long while. If it still isn't fixed the constant [incorrect] power transfer may have permantaly burned one(or more) of the circuits.
 

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I see that it been a couple days since your post. is it still the same?

I would spray inside of suspected connections with a good electronics conector cleaner it's non conductive and will clean out any water/ residue left in it? I use

QD electreonic cleaner by CRC

can says:

Cleans and protects sentitive Electronic equipment

Helps prevent Contact failure

Leaves no residue

Excellent precision cleaning solvent that cleans and protects sensitive electronic components and contacts. instantly Penetrates hard-to-reach
areas to safely dissolve dirt, dust, grease, flux, and other contaminants on contact. Evaporates quickly and completely. regular use helps prevent contact failure and malfunction. harmless to most plastics and paper tapes.

Warning: Do not use with ignition in "ON" position. Failure to observe this warning may result in serious injury from flash fire and/or electrical shock.
 

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1968 Cadillac Sedan deVille, 1994 Chevrolet G20
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Make sure it's CRC ELECTRONICS cleaner, not ELECTRICAL cleaner. Electrical cleaner is some potent stuff, it melts plastic. I think electronics cleaner has a picture of a microchip or something like that on the can, while electrical cleaner has a picture of an alternator.
 

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If it isn't obvious already......Steam cleaning is a bad idea on most newer cars. There are too many sensetive electrical components and connections that can be damaged by this very harsh method of removing grime. You can get away with lightly pressure washing it but you should still take care not to direct the pressure at connectors and components. ( Yeah, I know.....Too little too late! )
 

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WD-40 (water displacement-#40) also works excellent for removing water, it's safe for most automotive plastics and will not harm paint if removed within a reasonable ammount of time.
 

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Slick Black Cadillac said:
WD-40 (water displacement-#40) also works excellent for removing water, it's safe for most automotive plastics and will not harm paint if removed within a reasonable ammount of time.
OK, here's an update to the biggest headache of my life.

I let the caddy sit outside in the wind with the hood up and relays exposed overnight, popped a new fuse in the next mornin and BOOM everything worked!! Happier than a big in...well u know what..

Anyway...

Few days later I was driving and the same #7 fuse blew again (controls odo, trip, fuel data center, climate, window lock). Put a new one in, turned the car on, and blew once again. So, the problem is back in full force. Gone thru about 10 fuses.

Now I am not sure if this is any indication of whats exactly wrong, but while this fuse is blowing everytime I also have a constant Power Drain that drains my battery over a few days. I was driving today and barely made it into the driveway (car died just as I hit my street). So, this is also telling me that the Alternator is not functioning properly while this fuse is blowing?

I have not tried spraying all the electrical components in the engine yet because I would rather like to know where the problem is occuring before I cake the whole engine with WD-40. But I have to say that I did hear about using WD from another friend of mine. And am considering just spraying all the electrical components in the engine..

A friend also suggessted that one of the relay's is bad or is not making a proper connection, could this be blowing this fuse?

Thanks everyone for their support and feedback.
 

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water got somthing it was not suposed to. I'd concentrate on the engine compartment since that's what got a bath. if your the one who did the praying you must remeber were you aimed at.

First, disconnect the baterry, go through each plug/connector/weatherpack, one at a time and inspect for signs of water. clean with CRC electronic cleaner, not electrical cleaner. water left to dry in a electrical plug invites corrotion , mineral deposits, and nothing good.

The short that's been giving you the most problems is in the circuit/s that uses that fuse that blows all the time. start there get wiring diagrams/scematics Follow the circuit as best you can, and clean everything you can.

WD-40 will repell water, but electronic cleaner Cleans better, leaves no residue and will dry damp conectors

"I have not tried spraying all the electrical components in the engine yet because I would rather like to know where the problem is occuring before I cake the whole engine with WD-40. But I have to say that I did hear about using WD from another friend of mine. And am considering just spraying all the electrical components in the engine.."


let us know how you made out

 

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Caddy_freak said:
water got somthing it was not suposed to. I'd concentrate on the engine compartment since that's what got a bath. if your the one who did the praying you must remeber were you aimed at.

First, disconnect the baterry, go through each plug/connector/weatherpack, one at a time and inspect for signs of water. clean with CRC electronic cleaner, not electrical cleaner. water left to dry in a electrical plug invites corrotion , mineral deposits, and nothing good.

The short that's been giving you the most problems is in the circuit/s that uses that fuse that blows all the time. start there get wiring diagrams/scematics Follow the circuit as best you can, and clean everything you can.

WD-40 will repell water, but electronic cleaner Cleans better, leaves no residue and will dry damp conectors

"I have not tried spraying all the electrical components in the engine yet because I would rather like to know where the problem is occuring before I cake the whole engine with WD-40. But I have to say that I did hear about using WD from another friend of mine. And am considering just spraying all the electrical components in the engine.."


let us know how you made out


Well, I took apart the connector/weatherpacks today and looked at em..looked just fine, but sprayed a little wd-40 in them. Not a whole lot..but a little, then put them back together, tried a new fuse and it blew again.

That is the only place I sprayed WD...where can I get some of this electronic cleaner?? I have not tried disconnecting the WHOLE batter, only the positive. I was told not to do this because some of the error codes may stay in the computer and that could mess up the computer.
 

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Well the electronic cleaner, I picked it at advance auto parts, I don't know if they have those were your from, but I'm sure your local auto parts store should carry some. I'm sure other companies must make some similar products.

If you have a mechanic friend he could tell you. also some Di-Electric Electronics & Electrical Connector Grease</B> might help also, you can ask your friend about that too.

http://www.crc.co.nz/frame_newprod.asp?cid=2&lid=15&pid=730

as far as disconnecting the battery, just disconecting one cable is good, no need to remove it. it's just a extra precaution so you don't burn off your eyebrows and/or mustache, that cleaner is highly flamable.

Warning: Do not use with ignition in "ON" position. Failure to observe this warning may result in serious injury from flash fire and/or electrical shock.

I would hate to be known in this forum as the guy who caused you to turn your Caddy into a roman candle. :mad: :shocked2:

I beleive that with your battery disconected all it will do is reset the codes on your car, or at least that's how it is on the older Caddy's, you can always call your local dealer's service deparment to make shure.

Both of these products are used at my company's mechanic shop all the time
Good stuff, not real expensive.

they also make a Marine version you might find in a boat shop/dealer,

http://www.shipstore.com/ss/html/CRC/CRC06102.html

But ask the marine mechanic, if they have one there, if it will work for your automotive application. it should

Read the warnings and the directions on the can, make shure you got the right stuff before you go spraying

these types of electrical problems are a royal pain in the butt. if your gonna win this one you need to be like a detective, and trough process of elimination, track it down. if your not to good at it, get help. got any friends that are good at this sort of thing?

Here's your first clue.

you said:
( "The fuse I know is for the climate control as well as fuel data center,")

well that's were I would start looking!

Get a wiring diagram ( in service manual ) and follow those cicuits that your investigating. inspect/clean every contact or conector that is even remotly associated with those circuits, water can get into the strangest places.

May the force be with you :coolgleam
 

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First of all, you should pick up a multimeter (should be no more than $30.00 and a very wise investment) and use that to find the short rather than burning through fuses. Secondly, pick up a factory service manual (not a chiltons but an original cadillac manual). I got one on from a guy selling them on ebay for my 93 Fleetwood for $19.00. It has a complete description of every wire and connection location. Here's a link to a guy selling a Fleetwood manual.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34212&item=2443391174#ebayphotohosting

I would email him and find out if he has one for your Deville. That's what I did. I had a similar problem with the circuit that controls the door locks. It turned out to be a frayed wire to the drivers door switch that was intermittently shorting to the door frame. I tracked it down by systematically checking each segment for a short to ground. Took me about an hour to go through the whole circuit...of course the short was in the last leg of the circuit. If I had started from the other end it would have taken me 5 minutes...hindsight.
 
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