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I've got a problem that I've had about a year now. Sometimes the engine simply will not turn over. Put the key in the ignition, turn it, and the engine refuses to turn over. The starter doesn't engage. The dash lights and other minor electrical appliances turn off as they should when the starter is engaging but it simply won't turn over. Now, the tricky part... It does it if the car is cold or warm and then I can go back and try it again in 10 to 15 minutes and it starts. Sometimes I have to wait longer but eventually it starts. There is no indication the starter is "dragging." The battery voltage is up around 12.4+ volts, the lights burn brightly, the horn blows, everything is up to snuff except it sometimes just refuses to start. I've cleaned the battery connections but haven't inspected the starter/ground connections yet but seeing as how it starts after a wait I have no reason to suspect that. I've tried it with 3 keys, jumping it, jiggling the connections, moving gearshift lever in and out of park while holding the key down, you name it: (Please) I'm sure there are other diagnostics or tricks to try. The dealer said they can't fix it if it ain't broke when they get it in.
Another (related?) problem is intermittent flashing of the "Service engine soon" light accompanied by resetting of the fuel mileage data. It does this just every now and again but seems to go through several minutes to over an hour if I'm on the highway or driving around. it might be several days to several weeks until it does it again. Sometimes it takes a spell of doing it over a period of several days with spells of minutes or hours between the resetting. Sadly, it won't do it when the mechanic has it. I could live with it but suspect it's tied in with the engine not turning over.
 

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2005 CTS-V, 1994 Infiniti Q45
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Welcome!!! We're glad to have you here!!! :wave:

Anyway, my best guess (i cant say for sure) is there is a problem with the PASSKEY system..... See that little nugget on your key, that is actually a resistor, and if the correct resistence is present, then the starter will go..... IF not, then it wont.....

Someone else will chime in to give you accurate diagnosis!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
elwesso said:
Welcome!!! We're glad to have you here!!! :wave:

Anyway, my best guess (i cant say for sure) is there is a problem with the PASSKEY system..... See that little nugget on your key, that is actually a resistor, and if the correct resistence is present, then the starter will go..... IF not, then it wont.....

Someone else will chime in to give you accurate diagnosis!
************************

Thanks, that thought had crossed my mind. I tried 3 different keys but that didn't check problems in the automobile itself. Next time it won't crank I think I'll try some spray contact cleaner first on the key and then, it that doesnt' work, in the keyhole. I don't know why I failed to mention it to the mechanic... I shouldn't have to but some of the newer mechanics re-define "Clueless." Any ideas on the fuel data center problem? I feel sure it's a loose/bad/corroded connection somewhere but finding it has eluded me thus far.
Wayne
 

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I have a '90 seville and I have exactly the same problem as you are having minus the fuel resetting. When I read your posting, it seemed to describe exactly what mine is doing, with the exception that mine makes a very quiet creaking? sound coming from behind the dash in the general area of the speedometer. It kinda sounds like a buzzer or somthing without enough voltage to power it completely. I ran the diagnostics and the codes that come up are
E039 history
E049 current
E091 history
E097 history
E098 history
E120 history
E121 history
E122 history
B447 current

If anyone has any clues what these mean please let me know. Wanzewurld are any of these consistant with yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
HI, Scottan and all.
I kept waiting for the car to refuse to start again so I could spray some (genuine) electrical contact cleaner/lubricant into the keyhole. I finally gave up and just sprayed it in there and inserted and removed all the keys several times. So far it has started faithfully. The fuel center resetting and flashing ?'Check engine soon'? light hasn't returned that I've noticed but it may have done so while my wife was driving and she didn't tell me. I keep the setting on "Average MPG" and have noticed it displaying other features such as "Fuel remaining" or "Distance remaining" when I start it up, so it's possible my wife or grandchildren have been playing with the buttons in my absence.
I haven't run the diagnostics display yet as I haven't thought about it when I had the time to do it but I will do so in the near future and will publish my results. There's a website that gives SOME meanings to the codes although they are a bit cryptic to the layman (Meself included). I'll try to locate that/those sites and get them back to you too.
I'd like to add that I love my old 4.9 Liter Caddy Deville. It's going on 13 years old, has a tad over 100,000 miles on it, rides and handles great, gets about 22 mpg overall, and will smoke about 95% of the cars that stop next to me at the traffic light.

Wayne

scottan said:
I have a '90 seville and I have exactly the same problem as you are having minus the fuel resetting. When I read your posting, it seemed to describe exactly what mine is doing, with the exception that mine makes a very quiet creaking? sound coming from behind the dash in the general area of the speedometer. It kinda sounds like a buzzer or somthing without enough voltage to power it completely. I ran the diagnostics and the codes that come up are
E039 history
E049 current
E091 history
E097 history
E098 history
E120 history
E121 history
E122 history
B447 current

If anyone has any clues what these mean please let me know. Wanzewurld are any of these consistant with yours?
 

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wanezwurld and bman508, just wanted to let you guys know that after many painstaking hours of tracing wires and troubleshooting, I finally found my problem. It turned out to be the ignition switch that is mounted to the top of the steering column. I had to drop the steering column and it is a white box with about 10 wires coming out of it (the yellow one being the problem). A good way to test if this is your problem is, when it won't start, turn the key and hold it in the start positionwith on hand, and with your other hand,grab the large black connector(with the large yellow wire running through it) that is attached to the switch and move it around. If this is your problem, your car should start. I hope this will help you guys out, let me know what you find out.

P.S. you may have to remove the lower dash panel to do this, I'm not sure, I already had mine off due to wire tracing.
 

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´67 Eldorado, ´96 Eldorado
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E039 history - TCC engagement fault
E049 current - AIR system fault
E091 history - PNP switch or circuit fault
E097 history - Transaxle shift fault (occurs, when you shifting from P or N to D, when engine speed is greater than 2000)
E098 history - Transaxle shift fault (occurs, when you shifting from P or N to D, when engine speed is between 1200 and 2000)
E120 history - B120? - Twilight delay pot or circuit fault
E121 history - B121? - Twilight enable switch or circuit fault
E122 history - B122? - Instrument panel dimmer switch or circuit fault
B447 current - A/C system fault - very low refrigerant

As Katshot says - clear codes and check, what codes comes back...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Your post is below my response
Howdy scottan. I'm glad you found your problem. That sounds like it may be mine although I APPEAR to have fixed mine with a slightly lower-tech approach. I kept waiting for the car to not start again and had a can of spray cleaner/lubricant (Not WD-40 although that might work) handy to spray in the keyhole when it did (didn't?). I waited about a week or two and finally just sprayed a couple of shots in the hole and inserted and removed ALL of my keys several times. Not only has the car not refused to start since, but my check engine/fuel data center flashing has stopped. I can only assume I've found the problem and repaired it although it may only be a temporary patch and could re-occur. I keep a small non-aerosol spray bottle tightly capped in the trunk in the event the problem crops up again.
Any comments on this?
Wayne

scottan said:
wanezwurld and bman508, just wanted to let you guys know that after many painstaking hours of tracing wires and troubleshooting, I finally found my problem. It turned out to be the ignition switch that is mounted to the top of the steering column. I had to drop the steering column and it is a white box with about 10 wires coming out of it (the yellow one being the problem). A good way to test if this is your problem is, when it won't start, turn the key and hold it in the start positionwith on hand, and with your other hand,grab the large black connector(with the large yellow wire running through it) that is attached to the switch and move it around. If this is your problem, your car should start. I hope this will help you guys out, let me know what you find out.

P.S. you may have to remove the lower dash panel to do this, I'm not sure, I already had mine off due to wire tracing.
 
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