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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, everyone. I have a 1989 eldo and when I turn the key sometimes is says starting disabled wait 3 minutes. I was told that this is probably due to the chip in the key, and I need to replace the whole ignition and get new keys. What I want to know is if it possible to bypass the car reading the chip and start up anyways? Cadillac wants $105 just to look at, and then 4-5 hours or labor @ $105.
 

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Try cleaning the keys or try your spare set first, or bypass the system. I just had mine bypassed. All you have to do is get resistor(s) that match the resistance of the chip on your key. There are two very small wires encased in a tube that looks a lot like another wire (mine was orange) leading from the ignition switch. cut the wires and put the resistor across them. I had an friend's brother who does auto alarms do it and he only charged $50 to do it at my house. He had to come out and do it because I put it off until the car decided not to start at all. While he was there, he put in a remote start system. Don't delay, you never know when the car will decide to cut off completely instead of making you wait a few minutes. Mine died on the street during a snow storm, and I had to push it into the garage so he could work on it !!
 

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I recently had extra sets of keys made (93 ETC) at the dealership, though you can go to any GM dealership to have it done, from what I understand. In either case they needed proof of ownership. You may want to ask about the cost of the keys before having them cut. The guy who cut mine claimed that the Cadillac, chipped, blanks were $20, his cost. It worked out after a bit, but it was a simple question that I failed to ask.

Four keys were cut (2 ignition, 2 door/trunk) and they asked for $65. His final price was $23 for all four, though I am no longer on that Christmas list. :tisk: Rad
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
philthy said:
Try cleaning the keys or try your spare set first, or bypass the system. I just had mine bypassed. All you have to do is get resistor(s) that match the resistance of the chip on your key. There are two very small wires encased in a tube that looks a lot like another wire (mine was orange) leading from the ignition switch. cut the wires and put the resistor across them. I had an friend's brother who does auto alarms do it and he only charged $50 to do it at my house. He had to come out and do it because I put it off until the car decided not to start at all. While he was there, he put in a remote start system. Don't delay, you never know when the car will decide to cut off completely instead of making you wait a few minutes. Mine died on the street during a snow storm, and I had to push it into the garage so he could work on it !!
I just had the system bypassed yesterday and it starts perfectly, although the guy got over on me. he charged $100. Such is life. Thanks for the insight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
acbareford said:
I recently had extra sets of keys made (93 ETC) at the dealership, though you can go to any GM dealership to have it done, from what I understand. In either case they needed proof of ownership. You may want to ask about the cost of the keys before having them cut. The guy who cut mine claimed that the Cadillac, chipped, blanks were $20, his cost. It worked out after a bit, but it was a simple question that I failed to ask.

Four keys were cut (2 ignition, 2 door/trunk) and they asked for $65. His final price was $23 for all four, though I am no longer on that Christmas list. :tisk: Rad
The dealership in Detroit charged me $29 for one ignition key. But that was better than $35 at a dealer in Dearborn. Michigan that is.
 

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Wow, im surprised that domestic vehicles ALREADY had chipped ignition security systems waay back in 89! Cool stuff!
 

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caddylady said:
I just had the system bypassed yesterday and it starts perfectly, although the guy got over on me. he charged $100. Such is life. Thanks for the insight.
That isn't a bad price really. For him to pull it in and unbutton the block out panel under the dash to get to the wiring cost that I'm sure. He is just like you. He doesn't work for free either and somebody has to pay the heat, light and rent. Sounds like a fair price all things considering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
kcnewell said:
That isn't a bad price really. For him to pull it in and unbutton the block out panel under the dash to get to the wiring cost that I'm sure. He is just like you....he doesn't work for free either and somebody has to pay the heat and light and rent.....sounds like a fair price all things considering.
If you put it that way, that is true.
 

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caddylady said:
If you put it that way, that is true.
Besides, you found someone that apparently knew what they were doing! That knowlege didn't come free either. He spent some time somewhere figuring the wiring out and obtaining the necessary parts (resister assortment) to make the modification. I think it was a very fair price, actually. :)
 

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(okay there's a lot babbling and rambling in here, so if you want to get to the business of questions, go to the bottom of this post. Sorry, too much coffee.)

oh yeah, i am sitting here dreading a call from a cadillac dealership that is right down the street. i had to have my car towed there last night at about 6 pm. Nothing else was open and i was thinking if anybody knew about this problem then they do. at least i can get an estimate on a bunch of other work i need done at the same time. of course it will probably cost me but at least i'll know what's wrong.

however the guy in the service department seemed to think the bypass was a hit or miss thing. i'm sure he's trying to be a salesman though but what really pissed me off was that he suggested i needed a new ignition cylinder that would cost me $400 just for the part. His phrase was, "they usually go for somewhere around $400." I'm pretty sure at that moment i looked like i had choked on one of those ignition cylinders. I'm not a rich man and i have two kids so i'm thinking this means they'll be wearing scraps of their old shoes with duct tape wrapped around the heel to keep it on. (funny thing is back in the 80's we used to do that to brand new shoes, guess we thought it looked cool)

anyways, hearing these comments makes me feel a little bit better about the possibility of having it done by my mechanic who's a freaking mcguyver and should be rolling in it because i've never seen him NOT be able to fix anything. But he's kind of a strange cat who doesn't know how to stay away from crazy women and brown bottles.

anyway, my car was doing this for a while but i found that by turning the key on only to the first position, where the accessories come on and allowing it to flash a couple messages it seemed to clear the problem up so that when I actually turned the ignition over it started right up. Then i had a remote keyless entry system put in and it worked fine for months on end until yesterday. I tried everything but it kept up that message.

Looking back on it I didn't try disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds or more but i'm not sure if this would have helped.

Anyone know if that works? Wish I would have thought of it.

Or does anyone know how to tell the resistance of the key chip so you can try and get in the general area of finding the right resistor?

Is the ignition cylinder difficult to replace yourself?

And what years would be compatible with my 92 Seville (standard) if I wanted to go to a U Pull and hope that I can track down the thing at a discount if i absolutely need to replace it?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help...



Flyrite
 

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flyrite:
I am not really understand what the problem is: you keep getting a message "you should wait 3 min" or something else. If it's message like this, it is possible that system can't read the key resistance (something happend with it or it's just dirty) or something else. Under "Something else" I mean system trying to compare (like I imagine) ressistance of your key with stored value, but something happened with that "stored value". If the key is fine, I beleive it's really simple to measure it's ressistance with ohmmeter (you can see the contacts on a sides of the key's chip), but that not gonna help you, cause the real reason in somewhere else, posible in an ignition cilinder.
 

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BE WARNED!!!!!!!!!!!


The pass key system is a dated system and is not a good theft deterent on its own. My 97 SLS was stolen and there was no forced entry and it was started with a pass key that wasnt mine.

More and more "mom and pop" key cutters and smiths have the ability to reproduce this key, at least they do here in Los Angeles. The Pass key may deter some, but the system is definately not as secure as some would think.
 

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I agree with STS 310 above and would rather have the system disabled so i can upgrade or simply BE ABLE TO DRIVE MY DANG CAR!

Also, if like oldgamer says and it is with the ignition cylinder, but the only thing that may be wrong is the theft deterrent wires won't adding the resistor by pass the problem between the theft system and ignition cylinder.

and yes, oldgamer, i'm getting the starting disabled and wait three minutes messages and when i've had them before i was able to avoid them, after a while of being careful avoiding them they just plain stopped and it hasn't happened for months until yesterday.

like i stated above i avoided the problem for a while by turning the key onto the first position in the start direction which i think is generally called ON but before the start position. I would turn it to this ON position lightly and wait there until the display panel lit up and went through at least two messages. then I would start the car.

doing it this way i avoided the starting disabled message and eventually became used to starting my car this way. I'm not sure if you can fathom a guess at what might cause it to act in such a way besides the wiring but you're probably much more knowledgeable than I am.

Anyways, I should be hearing from the service department by 2 or 3 pm the latest. I'll update once i have one.

flyrite

...sorry for such long posts, i'm normally a much quieter board member :)


Edit: Edit: Problem solved with $430 check written to the cadillac dealership. It's somehow comforting to know that i can purchase peace of mind from a cadillac dealership. I just wish it wasn't so expensive. Replaced the ignition cylinder. They said it had wires broken for the theft system and that there was another part broken, he didn't even know what it was. Yeah that's comforting.
 

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When the wiring circuit to the lock cylinder is open, the resistor in the key is not read and the car will not start. The simplest and cheapest fix (less than $1) is to disconnect the connector for this circuit (located on lower part of steering column) and place the appropriate value resistor (measure key resistor) in the circuit at that point.
 

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I don't know if what I did was right or wrong, but I got that message one day and I took my key to the vice in the garage, took a hammer and a little punch, knocked out the little metal chip in the key itself, and it works beautifully now. Havn't had a problem since then...the spare key still has the chip, my regular one does not. Both work great. Is this normal?
 

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Spyder said:
I don't know if what I did was right or wrong, but I got that message one day and I took my key to the vice in the garage, took a hammer and a little punch, knocked out the little metal chip in the key itself, and it works beautifully now. Havn't had a problem since then...the spare key still has the chip, my regular one does not. Both work great. Is this normal?
NO. The one without the chip should not start the car.
 

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I had an ignition key cut by a local locksmith and thought $15 was rather steep until I began reading threads like this. I'd check out the local locksmiths before going to a dealer.


Regards,
Warren
 

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Hello everyone ... im new here and i have a 90-seville....im now getting the famous "starting disabled, and wait three mins" message ... (i supose sooner or later we all will get it) lol ... Anyway .... both my keys wont work and im not sure if i get another key made if it will work either... should i try getting one made anyway??? Has anyone ever tried the disconnect the battery thing to see if it works ??? Is there no way to disable the security feature ???? I read about the bypass with resistor thing, sounds good but dont know anyone who could do it ..... any insightful help out there ??? Thx in advance
 

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I have a 96 Sedan Deville with the same issue. I'm going to attempt to put a resistor in myself but need to know where to buy them, can anyone help? All I have is a Chilton Manual, will this be sufficient in helping me or should I reconsider and take it to a mechanic or dealer?
 

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I had to get a steering wheel puller from Autozone and I got the steering wheel oof but I was unable to get the plactic part off. The chilton's manual again failed to give specific instructions for dismantling the colum. I was unable to get to the wires so I could not find any problem. However I havn't had a problme in about 2 weeks, should I act as if it's fixed or take it to a dealer? :banghead: :banghead:
 
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