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Does that include the 3 bolts that mount the intake manifold to the aluminum throttle?
Thanks
For a 2001, the intake is held down by 10 bolts and the coupling with the throttle body is done by an "intake plenum" which is prone to cracking. It's unlike the previous Northstars, where the intake manifold is connected with the throttle body with allen key bolts, if I remember correctly. You can either remove the intake manifold leaving the plenum intact with the throttle body, or remove the intake manifold WITH the plenum by removing the mentioned three bolts. Your choice. I had to remove fuel rail + injectors on a 2000 (2001 the same) to get easier access to the intake manifold bolts.

 
Wow - thanks for the quick response !!!

It seems that we (you and I) are unlucky enough to have the year(s) where the fuel rail + injectors must be removed :>(

I am a pretty decent "do-it-yourselfer" (changing Oil + Filter, rotors, brake pads, radiator, plugs, coil banks, etc) but, never before removed injectors + rail.

Any insight/help/instructions would be much appreciated - (i.e., how do I not spew gas everywhere, is there a specific order to the removal :>) ?

Thanks
 
Look through Cadillac Tech Tips down in Discussions or Google "cadillac forums 2001 northstar intake manifold removal".

It's not rocket science, but a couple of hoops to jump through. The manifold bolt torque is 7.5 lb/ft. Not much - get carried away and you crack the bolt bosses = new manifold. Smear a drop of engine oil on the upper and lower injector O-rings before you replace the fuel rail.

Replace the plenum at the same time. Google the same ^^^ except substitute "plenum". $16, with seals, from RockAuto. Dorman brand. A Cadillac dealer wants some ludicrous price for the seals alone - staggering ripoff. NAPA has them, too.

Pictures and part numbers in my 2 albums - the Community tab, Albums, the red Seville.
 
Got it - I just put the new starter in - I will replace the rest tomorrow. It was not too bad - the key, disconnect wires from injectors, remove 3 bolts attaching intake plenum to throtle body. Fuel line lifts right off, Intake follows without much effort. Then you see in the cavity what you have been working towards for 2 days (the Starter). I changed that in 10 minutes

Thanks for everything
 
Still screwed - replaced the started, all vacuum hosed - gas line, reconnected battery - etc, etc, etc --- Car won't start :>(. Turn the key - hear a click. Turn the key in the ignition setting, run the gear shift through all the settings a couple of times, retry to start - AI hear the starter kick in then, it doesn't turn the motor. A weeke ago, I could go through this cycle a few times and eventually it would start. A few days back - this approach no longer worked so, I assume the starter gave out. Replaced the starter, same thing as Monday. Battery at 13.4 volts. Can anyone advise me on this?

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OK - so I p[laced the car in neutral - turn the key - started right up. It has been starting in Park ever since. What is the problem? I also noticed a little gas leak from one of my injectors - Not enougfh oil on the injector O ring?
 
The engine should start in either N or P. maybe there's a glitch in the Internal Mode Switch (your 2001) or the main transmission wiring harness connector needs cleaning/drying. The large umbilical cord that loops out of the left (front) side of the transmission - down below the water pump cover area.

The IMS is inside the transmission, on the lower valve body, operated by a long shaft from the shift cable quadrant on the transmission top - in front of your gas pedal foot.
 
Well - at least I got the injector to stop leaking :>) I have never played with the trannie so, I will have to try to find what this harness looks like - It sounds like this will be the easier of 2 things to check. How do I get to the IMS?
Thanks

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When I turn the ignition key, the console lights dim but all I hear is a faint click. When I run the shifter through all the gears, the (new) starter sometimes engages but, never fully turns. I keep at it in that fashion (run the stick through all the gears) and eventually it starts. Starts a few time without this approach then, when I turn it off (w/o notice, warning) – it just won’t start again.
My mechanic told me to change the starter (instead of paying him $600). It did not help
 
Check your battery connections and battery voltage a weak battery or battery going bad gives these symptoms i seen it before with the Cadillacs I own did you bench test old starter after you removed it
 
Found problem !!
There is a "Starter Relay" which I changed (no help or change) and, there is an Ignition "IGN1" relay - which, when I replaced - started right up. Been working ever since. Well, I now know how to:

Change fuel line, Remove intake plenum, replace starter, change relays !!

Thanks for all the help!!
 
I replaced my starter last week.
I think I shot my brand new starter because of a Hydrolock, so I'm going back in this week.

It is pretty easy, but the only hitch I had was physically removing the intake manifold. ALLDATA says to lift on the front (passenger) side and then pull out of Plenum. My problem is, it doesn't just lift up, it catches on the power steering pump, I damn near have to pry it out. Anyone else have this? How did you get just a little more clearance?

Thanks,
 
Remember - both Alldata and the GM/Helm manuals assume that any interference has been removed before a specific procedure is attempted.
 
I am still out of country. With limited network access while serving my home country. Looking to be back in the States next year.

I do my best to share my thoughts when it comes to Northstars, hoping some of my experience could come in and help others. :) This place was where I got all my knowledge anyways!
 
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