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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my 2nd fiberglass project. I built a sub box for my previous car and it turned out very good so I decided to give it a try again. This one is more complicated than the last one so I hope it turns out good in the end. I plan on installing a 10" sub that will hopefully add some bass to the stock Bose system (Bose= All highs and no lows).

If you have never worked with fiberglass it's not hard by any means. It does take a lot of time though. Especially if you're like me and only have a little experience with it. A good friend of mine works with car audio and builds boxes for a living. Most of what I learned came from him.

One layer of blue tape, then a layer of foil with blue taped seams.



I had to build the mold while inside the car. That means I taped and covered everything. I sealed off the trunk to prevent the smell from getting inside the car.



This is untrimmed outside of the car.




Test fit after I removed extra tape and foil. Next step will be trim to fit better.

I'm trying to decide between building a ring for the speaker to sit in and then cover with fleece. Or if I should make the face of it with MDF. I kind of like that idea in case I want to change to a 12" later on. I could easily cut the opening a little larger.

I plan on carpeting it, I just need to locate carpet that matches. I have some leftover from my last one, but it's lighter in color. I wonder if Michaels or Joanns has automotive carpet..... I'm hoping to be done in a week or so with the build. Then I need to wire it all up.
 

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Looks good here is a shot of mine,.

Ive been doing fiberglass for many years, so mine is form fit. I utilized the pocket and now the box sits put when installed. NO screws of any sort are needed.

This pox pictured is actually for sale however it has a 10" type r in it instead of the w7. which im using in another box design.

Subwoofer Trunk Loudspeaker Vehicle audio Audio equipment
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Where did you get the carpet from? It looks like a good match. I decided not to use the pocket so I could store stuff in there still if needed. I plan on carpeting the backside of the box so the friction should hold it in place.

Do you have any experience with double baffling? I want to flush mount the sub and think this would be the easiest way for me.
 

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sure I do. What type of sub are you using?

So you want to make the speaker sit at the same height as the finished surface of the box? Mine sits out words because I was using a w7. But I can take a pic of another one of my boxes where the speaker sets in place.

the trunks carpet is a dark charcoal. the box I used some black trunk liner carpet I had sitting around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
sure I do. What type of sub are you using?

So you want to make the speaker sit at the same height as the finished surface of the box? Mine sits out words because I was using a w7. But I can take a pic of another one of my boxes where the speaker sets in place.

the trunks carpet is a dark charcoal. the box I used some black trunk liner carpet I had sitting around.
I ended up doing double baffles. I sandwiched them last night so they should be dry today. I'm hoping to have it all finished this week so I can do the wiring this weekend. I will probably just use some of the gray carpet I have in my attic unless I can find some locally or on Amazon that will match better.
 

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Nice how does sound? It's weird because in this car if I open the trunk while music is playing the bass gets louder. Anyway I turn the box it does the same thing. Building another box in the spring.
Looks good here is a shot of mine,.

Ive been doing fiberglass for many years, so mine is form fit. I utilized the pocket and now the box sits put when installed. NO screws of any sort are needed.

This pox pictured is actually for sale however it has a 10" type r in it instead of the w7. which im using in another box design.

View attachment 287609
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I finished glassing the final layer last night. There's a bubble I'm going to sand down and patch today but that will be it for fiberglass. I need to see if there is a remote turn on in the trunk. I plan on wiring this up this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Box is done. I bought black carpet and it doesn't match so I used the gray I had on hand. It looks okay but could be darker. I will grab photos when I finish wiring it this weekend. I bought the in line converter with a remote trigger so no need to hunt down one in the trunk.
 

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Right where your box is on that quarter panel I found a remote on and off in my 3.6. There where plugs or sensors connected to that quarter panel. I tested them all by sticking tester in the white plugs I think the color was until I found one. I couldn't find another in the trunk after a long time looking. The wire could have been purple.
I finished glassing the final layer last night. There's a bubble I'm going to sand down and patch today but that will be it for fiberglass. I need to see if there is a remote turn on in the trunk. I plan on wiring this up this weekend.
 

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Guess it sounds good then. Just was wondering in that spot does the sub sound good.
Nice how does sound? It's weird because in this car if I open the trunk while music is playing the bass gets louder. Anyway I turn the box it does the same thing. Building another box in the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I'm happy to report my trunk does not have christmas tree clips. They use the clips you wedge a flathead into the center piece and then lift up. That will make removing the trunk liner much easier.

Here are some more photos.

This was a test fit of the front piece before final trimming. The screws were temporary to hold it in place to the fiberglass. I also had to cut the rings by hand with a jigsaw. I own a brand new router but no table or bits. Rather than buying more crap I don't have room for I decided to just use a jigsaw. The carpet covered the imperfections :)



Top view before trimming.



This is 95% complete. I need to trim a little more carpet and clean the interior of the box. There's one area that might be a little thin so I might just apply one quick layer to that and call it a day. Using the thumb press test the box has no flex at all so I think it's very strong. This is the 2nd fiberglass project and overall happy with it. If I had to do another one I could cut my time down in about half and make it look even better.

 

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what does it look like with a speaker installed and in the car , are you at that point yet.

Also for future projects. I see you used screws to hold the two baffles together. Question did you glue them?

I like the material you used for the wrap was it a kids blanket? LOL

Trust me during some late night projects Ive grabbed anything handy or a trip to 24hr walmart was done to get something.

Looks like it should fit pretty good. it being sealed it should sound pretty good. My box as pictures is ported.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
what does it look like with a speaker installed and in the car , are you at that point yet.

Also for future projects. I see you used screws to hold the two baffles together. Question did you glue them?

I like the material you used for the wrap was it a kids blanket? LOL

Trust me during some late night projects Ive grabbed anything handy or a trip to 24hr walmart was done to get something.

Looks like it should fit pretty good. it being sealed it should sound pretty good. My box as pictures is ported.
No screws. It was temporary until I could glass it together. I used Batman fleece because it was only $5 a yard, and well Batman is pretty awesome.





Overall very happy, but I might plastidip the sub black to help it blend better. I need to get in the trunk and cut the low speed wire to see if it stops the feedback from the ANC.
 

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Looks good man. Good work. How about another one on the other side? No sir I know your good with one sub. I like the space saving of it all. On a trip I wouldn't have to take my sub box out for space. Got me thinking.
No screws. It was temporary until I could glass it together. I used Batman fleece because it was only $5 a yard, and well Batman is pretty awesome.





Overall very happy, but I might plastidip the sub black to help it blend better. I need to get in the trunk and cut the low speed wire to see if it stops the feedback from the ANC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I finally had free time this weekend to fix the ANC. All you need to do is cut the crankshaft position sensor replicated signal wire on the harness. What I did was add wiring to the factory wire and put a toggle switch next to my amp. I also put my remote wire on a toggle switch too so I can shut the bass down when I want. My family is coming into town this weekend so I don't need bass while my parents are in my car. I can turn that off and turn on ANC when needed. To access the amp you don;t need to tear apart the whole trunk. Just remove the black plastic cover where the latch is, remove the two clips/bracket on the right side, and the right side piece can be maneuvered out of place to access the amp. 10 minutes tops.
 
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