[801Hill]

Ok this is starting to drive me crazy. '99 ETC - Last year before my HG went out I was having stability control intermintently engage and I had two wheel sensor codes. Well the car sat for a year while I fixed the HG and I bought two new hubs but no more codes for the first month everything fine.

Then I got a VSS code and the stability control started to go on the fritz again randomly sometimes mostly at low speeds. I replaced the VSS and I still get the P0503 after being on the hwy.

I drove to Vegas from SLC and my stabilty control is getting worse activating at high speeds and low speeds, accelerating, braking - always random. I am now getting a steering wheel sensor code as well as VSS but they are always history. Check engine light on sometimes off sometimes. Stabilty control engaging much more often now. Is the steering sensor hard to replace? Expensive?

What happened to my wheel sensor codes? never came back - I have two brand new wheel hubs one front one rear never installed.

I am puzzled. Is there a way to disengage stability without taking 1st gear while Im trying to figure this out? I pulled the ABS fuse and 1st gear went away. Another fuse or wire??

Sorry for the long post.

 

[Raze]

How's your charging system doing (batt and alternator?) if either is weak or bad and voltages are out of spec, they'll set this code intermittently, I know, I just went through this with a partially bad alternator that was putting out lower voltage but still w/in spec. Go to advance or autozone and have them test it on the car.

Also, when you did the HGs if the wiring harness was rubbed/pinched/ or connectors pulled on you may have a bad signal, you need to pull the connectors with the car on, and test w/a multimeter to check for continuity. You will throw the open short code when you do this but a continuity check will let you know if a strong signal is getting to your sensors. If it's bad, or fiddling with the harness a little breaks up the signal, try moving behind the connector, pull the loom away, and splice in some wire taps so you can test the signal upstream of the connectors, if that's good, replace the connector, should be able to get them on rockauto or gmpartsdirect, or a caddy dealer (I'd go with Lindsay advertises on here and has good prices for parts).

Pull the rest of your codes and post them up, you need to go to the Northstar Technical portion of the forum and check out any other codes you might be having:
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...cal-discussion/53635-got-codes-look-here.html

 

[801Hill]

I didnt write down all of the codes but I think there were a few dealing with low voltage which I thought was strang since everything else works ok like AC, subwoofer, accesories, and I was getting 13.7 volts running but maybe it fluctuates. The battery is brand new when I did the HG but Ill have to go get the alternator checked. I know they can be on their way out and still work for a while.

Doesnt look easy to pull out - arrghh I had it out when the engine was out.

I'll also check some of the connectors and clean them and Ill post my codes tomorrow. thanks for your reply Raze.

 

[Raze]

Subwoofer? If you have add-on electricals these cars do not have the 'extra' electrical to drive additional add-ons, you might try disconnecting, driving around, and seeing how it goes, do your lights dim when it hits?

 

[801Hill]

The lights seem fine when the sub is running. I have the sub hooked directly to the batt but I will try disconnecting it and seeing how that does. I wound up pulling the ABS fuse because the stabilty was just engaging way too much like every minute and with increasing intensity. That being said some more codes came up because I pulled the fuse. I also went to Autozone to have the Alt checked and their stupid machine was broke so I drove to checker and all they had was a volt meter and just said - yea its charging good - While he was at it he pulled my batt cable off and set some more codes doing that but I will list all the codes that I wrote down about a week ago before I pulled the fuse and all the codes today after I pulled the fuse and after the batt was mometarily disconnected. Oh yeah I also started getting a service ride control message yesterday too. Arghhh!

Codes a week ago:
P0113 H
P0503 H
P1617 H
P1660 H
B1327 H
C1287 H
B2120 C
B0856 H
B1983 H
U1300 H

Codes Today:
P0603 H
P1602 C
B1552 H
U1255 C
U1040 H
U1255 C
B1327 H
C1780 C
C1783 C
C1785 C
B1558 C
B2120 C
B0856 H
B1983 H
U1300 H

I am thinking more that this problem might be a short somewhere that is just reaking havoc on my systems. It just seems that I have random codes come and go without doing anything. But U1300 has always been there for the longest time. What do you think?

I think Im going to go clear the codes, put the ABS fuse back in an dis connect my sub and drive it some and see what codes re appear.

 

[Caddyshack100]

The U1300 code is a def short to ground, your ecm has seen this for more than 3 seconds, but the ECM upon seeing this will sub a value and overlook this, I am with Raze up above, all your problems are pointing to a voltage problem, your code 1983 is telling you that your ecm received less than 10 volts for a specific amount of time. All the other C codes that are current are voltage related as well. If the Alt is not the issue then you will need a scantool to start probing the areas. A mulitmeter will only go so far. Good luck with it

 

[801Hill]

Well I replaced the fuse, cleared all of the codes and disconnected the sub and drove it for about 15 miles just now and it is still engaging the stability control randomly and quite frequently. I didnt get any codes yet but Im sure I will after a few cycles. I have started watching the volts and they have been from high 12s to low 14s but I have only been watching them frequently for the last 2 days.

So if it is a voltage problem would that be causing the stability to engage like it does? Also how do I track a voltage loss if it is not the alternator? Would it still be a short somewhere leaking volts to the ecm but still charging the batt fine?

 

[Caddyshack100]

I don't know if you have the FSM for the vehicle, so pardon the post if you have this info already.

When Stabilitrak® or TCS activates for longer than 1.5 seconds, there will be an accompanying DIC message. Short activations of either system may occur without any DIC messages. Stabilitrak® activations mostly occur in the turns or bumpy roads without much use of the accelerator pedal. Activations may also occur during aggressive driving. Unwanted Stabilitrak® activations may be caused by the following:

A loosely mounted yaw rate sensor
An intermittent faulty steering wheel position sensor
An intermittent wiring harness problem
A chassis alignment that is grossly out of specification
The wrong EBTCM installed
The wrong steering gear rack installed
Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1
Did you perform the ABS Diagnostic System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS

2
Check the mounting of the yaw rate sensor.

Is the yaw rate sensor properly secured?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 3

3
Remount or properly secure the yaw rate sensor. Refer to Yaw Rate Sensor Replacement .

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

4
Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect a scan tool to the data link connector (DLC).
Start the engine.
Use the scan tool in order to take a snapshot of the yaw rate sensor output.
Test drive the vehicle and note the unwanted Stabilitrak® activations.
Does the yaw rate sensor output suddenly increase or decrease without rapid turning of the vehicle?
--
Go to DTC C1282 Yaw Rate Sensor Bias Circuit Malfunction
Go to Step 5

5
Ensure that the front wheels are straight.
Turn OFF the ignition.
Start the engine.
Use the scan tool in order to observe the Digital SWPS Phase A and Digital SWPS Phase B in the ABS/TCS/ICCS Data Display (1) Diagnostics, Data List 2.
Slowly rotate the steering wheel to the left.
Did Phase A and Phase B change states as the steering wheel was rotated?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 8

6
Continue observing the Digital SWPS Phase A and Digital SWPS Phase B in the ABS/TCS/ICCS Data Display (1) Diagnostics, Data List 2.
Slowly rotate the steering wheel to the right.
Did Phase A and Phase B change states as the steering wheel was rotated?
--
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 8

7
Perform the Steering Position Sensor Test. Refer to Scan Tool Diagnostics .

Was the Steering Position Sensor Test passed?
--
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 8

8
Replace the Steering Wheel Position Sensor. Refer to Steering Wheel Position Sensor Replacement in Variable Effort Steering.

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

9
Place the vehicle on a level surface.
Use the scan tool in order to observe the Lateral Accelerometer Input in the ABS/TCS/ICCS Data Display (1) Diagnostics, Data List 2.
Is the Lateral Accelerometer Input voltage within the specified range?
2.3-2.7 V
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 10

10
Check the mounting of the lateral accelerometer.

Is the lateral accelerometer properly secured?
--
Go to Step 12
Go to Step 11

11
Remount or properly secure the lateral accelerometer. Refer to Lateral Accelerometer Replacement .

Has the repair been completed?
--
Go to Step 12
--

12
Use the scan tool in order to observe the Lateral Accelerometer Input in the ABS/TCS/ICCS Data Display (1) Diagnostics, Data List 2.

Is the Lateral Accelerometer Input voltage within the specified range?
2.3-2.7 V
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 13

13
Replace the lateral accelerometer. Refer to Lateral Accelerometer Replacement .

Has the replacement been completed?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

14
Inspect the EBTCM for the proper part number.

Is the EBTCM part number correct?
--
Go to Step 15
Go to Step 17

15
Inspect the power steering gear for the proper part number.

Is the power steering gear part number correct?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 18

16
Perform the Diagnostic Test Drive. Refer to Diagnostic Test Drive .
Inspect for obvious vehicle alignment problems.
Is the vehicle alignment proper?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
Go to Preliminary Alignment Inspection in Wheel Alignment

17
Replace the EBTCM. Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) Replacement .

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

18
Replace the power steering gear. Refer to Power Steering Gear Replacement in Power Steering System.

Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

 

[801Hill]

I do have an FSM but I hadnt found that page so thanks for pointing it out to me CaddyShack. I sometimes avoid the book because it is like trying to read and understand Isaiah. At least for the later models. I have one for my 91 and it is much easier to follow. I will have to go through these steps and see if I find anything. It seems wierd to me that they list some of these possible problems that wouldnt set a DTC? Why wouldnt they set a DTC? Still concerned about my B1983 and whether it is related or not. I will just do some more digging.