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Discussion Starter #181
its just a chinese 20 ton. I don't doubt it could do very nice bends if i filled the pipe with sand or something. Since I'm only interested in small bends I havent done that yet. As you can see everything turbo related I have bought the bends premade.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Parts show up often, but I try to keep the parts pics relevant to what I'm working on at the time. A keen eye will see there is some interesting things here.



We will start with the yoke. When I assembled the 12 bolt I bought an ebay (non-branded basically) "forged" yoke. The issue with it was, the tabs that center the ujoint were't machined wide enough. So the ujoint would not fit it the cups properly. I did't realize this until the rear end was assembled and installed so naturally I ground them down till the ujoint fit. Now obviously in my mind I'm worried that the driveshaft may run slightly off center due to the non-precision grinding.*



Here's the new one. I went with Moser due to Strange's yoke that was around the same price looked too much like the ebay one and their upgraded was quite a bit more expensive. So Moser looked like the best bang for the buck. Also, you can see it's gonna give me a little less trans yoke engagement by it being shorter, which is good cause I was almost bottomed out.






Sanded the kirkeys down and painted the backside of them black. Got em set in so I can see their clearance from the bars and get an idea about what type of backbrace Im gonna make for them. Also got the parachute cable fitted, and adjusted. One thing I dont remember in the instructions were that it needs a stop, it's easy to over throw the handle and extend the cable end out too far. Figured that out and it seems to be working as intended.



Bit the bullet, dropped the pan, got rid of the crappy bulkhead turbo drain fitting that was leaking and welded a new one in proper.



If you were good enough to recognize those blue and white boxes in the first pic, you'll know what comes next. We know the bearings took a little beating before I fixed the oil pump pickup clearance. How much? That's what I had to find out. Upon inspection I was happy to see the crank looked fantastic, with zero signs of wear or overheating. The bearings did their job and took the damage. They on the other hand are pretty gnarly looking, and I reversed one so you can see the heat marks on the back side (present on all). I do realize the cam and mains likely saw some damage as well but the rods are what gets literally hammered with HP so those are the ones that got replaced. The rest are just gonna have to tough it out.



As I sit here, thinking of the bearing clearances I didnt measure, will the first roll cage I ever installed save my life in the event of a crash, I'm distracted from serious matters and wonder why the hell do these cats love to climb up my lexan windows, and why won't I ever wash this car? Crack another cold one, those are all questions to sit and be pondered gentlemen.

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Discussion Starter #183
Couple people asked for a startup video so I decided to focus on everything it took to make the car start and run and see if these new rod bearings were gonna spin or what. The smoke you see was coolant that was spilled earlier on the hotside. Whoops.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBOO6N2VTf4

Where we are now, basically everything mechanically under the hood is done. Verified fans run, it doesn't seem to overheat at idle or anything weird. I do have a PS leak and one fuel leak that seems like its just a faulty fitting. During idling the car just randomly died and wouldn't crank back up. I narrowed it down to the fuel pump relays on the hotwire kit that came with the pumps. Yep, both relays were dead. I assume one died at some other time and i was only running on one pump and didn't know it. When the second one died it killed the car. It's highly likely I will be remaking most of that harness with heavier gauge wire and better relays. Not gonna lose an engine over a $5 relay. I finished the headlight wiring for the driver's side, started fitting the gauges up inside the car, and trimmed the kick panels to fit around the cage. 100 little details.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
As I plan my rewiring of the fuel pumps, I decided to investigate further. I contacted the vendor and went over the details and we could find no reason for two relays to fail. They look fine right? No burnt contacts or anything.....



One hammer later we found our issue. Looking back I remember when the tank was out and on the ground we had a big rain and some water got in and puddled by the tank. The relays had to have been on the ground since I pulled the tank and wiring out together. Ah well, live and learn.



The consensus seems to be about 50/50, if you have an 8/10 point cage do you need subframe connectors? I say no, so, they got cut TF off.



This helps offset the weight of the cage also.



I was sorta dreading chopping up my (perfect) dash but knew I'd feel better once it was done and back together. So I started trimming.



Amazing my top dash pad did not break and only required minor nothing in the corners to clear the bar. Overall I'm happy with how it turned out.



Call me crazy but i wanted to easily access the fuse boxes so I decided to trim the storage area off the glove box door. It is essentially for behind dash access at this point.....but looks stock when shut. Haven't quite decided how I'm gonna keep the fuse boxes from flopping around.

 

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Discussion Starter #185
We are in the belly of the beast now. Fixing screw ups, finding new issues, and doing really boring stuff like running new brake lines. I replaced the leaky fuel fittings and both fuel pump relays. All is well on the fuel side. Still waiting on one -10AN fitting to complete the PCV system. I think the boat driver got lost. PS pump is still leaking a puddle when running, haven't looked into that. And this turbo smokes like a freight train!!!

So I hit up Viren at VS Racing yesterday (Sunday) through PM. Didn't really care when he responded as this is no rush. He proceeded to have an entire conversation with me about my issues. Props to VS Racing for that. I sent him the two pics below of my drain line. He told me a couple things I didn't know. For one, he recommends a -12 drain, which I have a 10. He also does not like the 90 degree bend off the turbo. 45 would be better. I'm pretty sure that is a Teflon drain hose which even further reduces diameter. I also have some other things working against me, very little downward slope on the drain, and 70 psi of oil pressure at idle. I'm not moving the turbo, I'm not pulling the pan back off and putting in a -12 fitting, I can't change oil pressure. So we are gonna start with the easy stuff first.

Here is the 90 fitting, and an idea of the small amount of slope going back to the pan. Pretty sure the rest of the hose is about level. Understand, there is some force (residual pressure) coming down the drain line, it's not 100% dependent on gravity. But may be "sensitive" to it.




The wet leaking can be seen here. It's literally dripping inside and outside the turbo. This causes massive amounts of nasty smelling smoke.





So I'm changing the drain line from -10 teflon with 2x 90s, to -10 standard AN with 2x 45s. Not sure how much this will help but we are gonna see. Plan B is a restrictor. Turbos need oil so my plan is measure the inlet fitting, say its .250, weld it solid, then drill it back out to half so .125. Then keep stepping down (welding and re-drilling) till the smoke goes away. I want the minimum restriction possible to fix the issue.

On a plus side the rear brakes are all done from scratch and finished. Well sort of, I had to order some brake line clips to hold the line to the body. Then final tweaking to avoid any contact where rubbing could occur like in this pic. I may go back and route the line through that crossmember hole. I put this under the driver front floorboard just to keep it out from under the hood for less clutter. I did not follow the stock routing to the driveshaft tunnel because I don't want the lines there in case the DS goes kapoot. The line and valve are nowhere near the lowest thing on the car so I'm not super worried about it. I'm pretty sure I will be redoing most of it because all my flares will leak. Oh well.

 

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Re: your PS pump - you have AN lines right? Did you get the one with the O ring for the pump side? Mine is doing the same thing. I looked and I had a -6 fitting that didn't have the O-ring, but if you look at the stock PS pressure hose, it has one.

New fitting for me just came in. I hope that solves my issue. Just swapped the pump out at O'Reilly's on Sunday only to find out that it still leaks, so I looked into my fittings. This little piggy just arrived on my door step this afternoon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K8M176/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Discussion Starter #187
Yep, they all should have o rings. Funny it doesnt feel wet up by the pump/fitting, but its dripping from that hose? Weird, I need to look closer.
 

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Yeah I made that mistake already. Oops. haha

Mine PISSED from the fitting. I was afraid it's drowning my alternator. Womp womp.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Quick little update, very little has been going on. I've enjoyed taking a little break from the car. It is time to get it finished though. So yeah I decided to go ahead and bite the bullet and order a scavenge pump. Leveling the car did improve the smoke but there is still too much for my liking. So that's on the way. Grabbed me a $25 LCD and camera setup on ebay, and at this point I'm not even sure if I'm gonna try and mount the rearview mirror, I plan to run this all the time.

I did have to go back and shim this up a little to get the distance behind the car I wanted while still remaining fairly hidden. Width/angle is equal to the width of the car at about 1 to 2 feet behind it, then widens out from there.



I tried sticking this to the roof and it fell off within an hour. So i just hose clamped it to the roll cage. Really dont want to weld a mount on the cage for an LCD screen. So this is gonna have to work for now. Not sure if its gonna be annoying there but it isnt in my line of sight.

 

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Needs black hose clamps. LOL

That isn't bad, really.
 

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Discussion Starter #192
Brand new POS chinaman scavenge pump. It's big, it's probably gonna be loud, no clue what the fittings are going into it, but it should work well.



So looking back I never posted pics of the upper radiator hose in-place. I bought a flex hose and it was a tad too short. So I decided the stock hose was perfect, just needed to be longer. I originally added a straight adapter, and a 6" piece of 1.25 silicone. It worked fine but dangled the hose right over the turbo. So I decided try #3 would be a charm.

1.25" listed adapter measured 1.50". Dang you Summit.



Had to go old school.



After some profanity and some wrenches being thrown i got it on. You can see how buldged it is over the fitting. It sits really nice above the fan so I dont think it needs a brace or anything.



Was gonna replace all the carpet then scratched that idea. I'm just gonna add a rear section.......at some point. Right now this will do. Did some quick trimming just to see how it fit with the cage in the way.



Next stop, fajitas and cold beer in the garage.

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Discussion Starter #193
So, after further testing the scavenge pump is a success, no more smoke. Everything electrical is wired and working including all the gauges. Decided to throw the seats and harnesses in. I also made rear seat supports that are welded to the cage. The seats are super sturdy now with no flex. Man sitting in here it doesn't even feel like my car, it's so different. I think I only drove it once with the kirkeys before and it didnt even have seatbelts at the time.



 

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Discussion Starter #195
Hot damn we got some good news finally.

Old Hoosier slicks on the left. 28x10x17. On the right, M/T et pro bracket radial 28x10.5x15.





On the way:





​​​​​​​More to come..................
 

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Oooo now that's an update!

Welcome back. haha
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Small update but feels like a mountain to me. Brakes are bled and she's moving under her own power. I've got a few things lined up, brakes feel hard I'm not sure if the booster gave out, carpet, finish putting the interior together, bolt the battery back down, and a toon. Still waiting on the weld wheels also.







Built a welding car for my tig and new tiawanese plasma cutter.











Hoosier slicks are sold so I figured I'd hang the 10 spokes up in the garage as decoration. Always liked these wheels.



 

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Discussion Starter #198
Came home to two boxes sitting in the garage







Put a little dishwashing soap and water on the inner bead and it slipped right on.







I decided if i feel any vibes from them Im gonna insert some balancing beads through the tire stem. Until then we are gonna roll like this.







Fronts are gonna have to wait for a bit. But for now she should hook pretty well.



 

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I picked up one of those Cut50 plasma cutters last year, very nice for the price. I've determined my free hand cuttings skills are subpar at this point or i need to drink more beer first.
Your projpro coming together nicely man.
 

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Discussion Starter #200
Having never used a plasma cutter before I was super impressed with this one. No upcoming projects but I will definitely grab it when something comes up.
 
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