I am having this terrible problem with my brakes squeaking. I have brought it on two different occasions to be looked at and was told both times that my brakes are fine. Could it be dust?
Squeaky Brakes
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It is the most embarassing thing! I have this great looking car that I spent over $65k on and as soon as I pull awy or am backing out of the driveway it lets out the loudest squeak. I too have complained to the dealer on many occasions. The first time they cleaned the brakes saying it could be from brake dust. (Did not solve the problem) The second time they said they cannot do anything about it! (Cadillac says that a squeak is normal according to them) The third time I took it in, I stated that the squeak was very loud!!! They inpected the brakes and found that the front rotors were worn unevenly---So they turned my front rotors and put on brand new pads. I had about 11,000 miles on my Escalade at that point. The car was great for about two weeks and the same annoying squeak is back.....
To get ceramic brakes to squeak it's from not being broken in correctly (I have a family member in the brake pad industry) This usually happens at the dealership before you ever get the car/truck. It's important when replacing brake pads and or rotors to put them thru a heat cycle, and a cool down cycle
BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE
To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.
The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:
Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job!
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes.
Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/pad_proc.shtml
BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE
To ensure maximum performance and customer satisfaction, new brake pads must be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of approximately 280°C (537°F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This gradual process generates temperatures that not only penetrate the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also distribute evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of stress (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.
The bedding in/break in procedure should be done as follows:
Drive at approx. 35 mph (60 kmh) for about 500 yards (solid front discs) to 800 yards (vented front discs) while slightly dragging the brakes (i.e. light brake pedal pressure). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300°C (572°F).
Now, if possible, drive about 2200 yards maintaining the same speed without braking. This will allow the pads and discs to cool down evenly. After this cool-down, perform a normal brake application from 35 mph to 0. No panic stops!
Now, the friction surface has evenly developed friction coal, the pads have bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials will have disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure before delivering the vehicle to its owner. Do not expect your customer to properly finish your brake job!
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle - not the rear. This is due to the brake force distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300°C (527°F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, in that time the front brakes will be glowing red, overheating and thus destroying the front brakes.
Final note – don’t forget to clean hubs and check the wheel bearings. Also, the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/pad_proc.shtml
I have been through the same mouse wheel with my 05 lade. Everytime I take it into the dealer they tell me the brakes are fine and that from 05-current Cadillac changed their brakes and that the sound is normal... cough.
Anyone have any suggestions on what to do? Should this be covered under warranty?
Anyone have any suggestions on what to do? Should this be covered under warranty?
My brakes are squealing and it's embarrassing... Seeing a esco with rims squealing really sucks in traffic.
If your brake pads squeal it's becaused they glazed at some point, this can be sanded off depending on how bad they are, don't know if they would do this under warranty or not, I have some customers that got new brake pads under warranty because of squealing.
"This usually happens at the dealership before you ever get the car/truck."
Is it something they are supposed to do? (the dealer)
Is it something they are supposed to do? (the dealer)
No they take them out and beat them before you take delivery, either the detail guy, or when they are getting fuel, of course this does not happen at every dealership, in fact very few, but knowing several car dealership owners personally it does happen.
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