2014 ATS Performance with the 2.0. Book says to change plugs at 60,000 miles. Anyone bother to change the plugs at that recommended mileage and if so, change the wires too? I passed the 60,000 mile mark by a thousand miles last month but no mention of a service required in the monthly email from Onstar.
Spark Plug Change
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
I have 91K on my 2013 2.0T Performance and have changed the plugs twice (at 50k and 90k). They were still in good shape both times but clean plugs are always nice. Didn't change the coils yet.
2014 ATS 3.6 Premium RWD, 2016 Corvette Z06, 2018 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Diesel
Joined
·
3,878 Posts
Just make sure when you change them to use the proper cooler running plug that was specified along with a new ECM calibration to reduce the chances of pre-ignition and piston damage. Your manual probably specifies the original plug type which you definitely don't want to use.
IIRC, the 2014s came with the colder plugs. It's good advice for 2013s. Safe way is to order 2015 plugs. no uncertainty there.
i'll probably do my wires due to age when my plugs are changed. I had the originals plug swapped under the 2013 recall.
i'll probably do my wires due to age when my plugs are changed. I had the originals plug swapped under the 2013 recall.
I changed mine at 62k [400.00 Caddy dealer, 275 local GMC dealer had local Shop do them for 220.00 less than 1 hr job] have 67k now runs fine, owners manual shows 60k for plug change recommended by fellow forum members in previous posts. Interesting similar plugs go 100k in V6 engines my 2004 Honda recommended plug change at 105k easy job if you are mechanically inclined there are videos on this forum, just saying.
2014 ATS 3.6 Premium RWD, 2016 Corvette Z06, 2018 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Diesel
Joined
·
3,878 Posts
Forced induction engines typically have a shorter plug life than their naturally aspirated counterparts. The LT-4 supercharged V8 in my Corvette Z06 has the same 60,000 mile plug replacement as the 2.0T while the LT-1 naturally aspirated version has a 97,500 mile interval like the 3.6L NA in my ATS.
Plug changes are pretty easy on most engines, especially our RWD/AWD ATS with its longitudinal engine orientation but there are exceptions and some of the "transverse" mounted V6 engines in FWD cars created a major access issue with the plugs on the firewall side. I can't remember which maker was responsible but one installed an inline 4 with the plugs on the firewall side with almost zero access earning the hatred of owners and mechanics. The earlier production Ford truck V10 with aluminum heads and not enough plug thread engagement was another fun design with it suffering issues both from plugs seized in place and plugs that would be spit out of the head while the owner was driving down the road.
It is good practice to use an air nozzle on your compressor to blow away the debris around the plug before removal and if possible schedule your plug replacement just before a planned oil change so that anything that falls into the cylinders (and goes into the oil instead of blowing out the exhaust) gets removed at the next oil change. Be gentle removing the plug boot because it will often be stuck in place after many years and miles. At least with coil on plug type systems you don't have to worry about mixing up or crossing plug wires anymore.
Plug changes are pretty easy on most engines, especially our RWD/AWD ATS with its longitudinal engine orientation but there are exceptions and some of the "transverse" mounted V6 engines in FWD cars created a major access issue with the plugs on the firewall side. I can't remember which maker was responsible but one installed an inline 4 with the plugs on the firewall side with almost zero access earning the hatred of owners and mechanics. The earlier production Ford truck V10 with aluminum heads and not enough plug thread engagement was another fun design with it suffering issues both from plugs seized in place and plugs that would be spit out of the head while the owner was driving down the road.
It is good practice to use an air nozzle on your compressor to blow away the debris around the plug before removal and if possible schedule your plug replacement just before a planned oil change so that anything that falls into the cylinders (and goes into the oil instead of blowing out the exhaust) gets removed at the next oil change. Be gentle removing the plug boot because it will often be stuck in place after many years and miles. At least with coil on plug type systems you don't have to worry about mixing up or crossing plug wires anymore.
I looked at the listing for the 2013, 2014 and 2015 2.0T spark plugs and they were listing the same spark plug number. I ordered the AC 41-125 iridium as listed for the 2.0T but have not started that job yet so I have not looked at the original plugs. Does anyone recall the correct or "colder" plug part number? Did the new ECM update include the late 2014's? I do the automotive work that is reasonable in my own shop such as my C6 and all previous corvettes, but I do not have access to Cadillac factory information.
Is the interval for spark plug replacement on the ATS 2.0T really at 60K miles (100K km)? I called my local GM/Cadillac dealer today to ask about the interval and was told 150K km (94K miles) - are they out to lunch on this? I have a 2014.
Thanks! I actually found it and it's easy to follow. I've done it on other cars before and the 2.0T is pretty easy in comparison.
When searching however, I am finding different gap references so trying to figure out the correct gap for my 2014 2.0T. I bought new plugs (41-125 / 12681659 - updated part number) from the dealer and they are gapped at .033 which matches the first used plug I removed from the car. This gap does not match up to what I've seen in a few ATS spark plug posts on the forum.
I did figure out the discrepancy with what the service manager at the dealership told me about the spark plug change interval - the mileage he quoted was for the non-turbo engine. The 2.0 turbo engine interval is 60K miles/96K km (as noted in this thread) but the 2.5L engine is ~150K km. I clearly stated the year and engine so I'm surprised they misquoted - someone who didn't know to question it would have kept driving to 150K as recommended (also the car was at this dealer 2 days prior for oil change/"maintenance package" and coolant flush so the service advisor had the records).
When searching however, I am finding different gap references so trying to figure out the correct gap for my 2014 2.0T. I bought new plugs (41-125 / 12681659 - updated part number) from the dealer and they are gapped at .033 which matches the first used plug I removed from the car. This gap does not match up to what I've seen in a few ATS spark plug posts on the forum.
I did figure out the discrepancy with what the service manager at the dealership told me about the spark plug change interval - the mileage he quoted was for the non-turbo engine. The 2.0 turbo engine interval is 60K miles/96K km (as noted in this thread) but the 2.5L engine is ~150K km. I clearly stated the year and engine so I'm surprised they misquoted - someone who didn't know to question it would have kept driving to 150K as recommended (also the car was at this dealer 2 days prior for oil change/"maintenance package" and coolant flush so the service advisor had the records).
Great that you found it...
I re-gapped my plugs shortly after getting it. I did it while I was adding a dab of Never Seize to the plugs. I tighten up the gapped to .028 which isn't much but with a turbo you can have spark blow out. The average driver probably doesn't need to do this. But, then I am not average!
Plug life/milage according to GM runs anywhere from 60k to 100k. In a perfect world that may be true. But, I don't believe it for 1 sec. Here is a set of plugs (Old & New) with 70,000 miles on them that I pulled out of 8.1L Chevy used in an RV. OBTW - Gap from the factory is .060. We tighten that up to .045.
I'm assuming you used your well calibrated elbow instead of a torque wrench. For those of use who haven't built up the muscle memory, I've seen 20 NM (14.75 ft/lbs) as the torque spec for the plugs. Does anyone know if that's with or without antisieze? 14 ft/lbs is very little amount of force. If that's the dry spec, that would make the lubricated amount somewhere around 8 or 9, right?
To answer my own question, torque isn't that important. It gives you a VERY distinct "you've gone far enough" feel. It's like hitting a wall (I guess, literally), hand tight is tight enough.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
