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2006 BMW M5 | 2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV
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Discussion Starter #1
I recently put in NGK TR6 plugs and gapped them at .40 and I believe my NOS system is blowing out the spark.

It feels like I lose power (almost a chugging) feeling when I spray it at WOT. I was on the tollway earlier and sprayed 4th gear up to 120 and my engine temp went from 195 to 215 and I got a flashing check engine light.

My guess is the gap is too large, I was getting spark blow out, and the NOS caused a bad lean condition raising the engine temp in a hurry.

Any thoughts on if that sounds about right?

Dyno tune coming up this week...... I have a feeling the NOS might turn into my mod hell if I have to constantly tinker with it.
 

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Wet or dry kit?

They should be gapped between .032 and .035...how big of a shot are you running? Anything above a 125 shot you should run BR7EF plugs which are non-projected tips and 2 heat range colder then stock.

How much timing are you pulling for your shot and do you have any kind of tuning/scanning software to run a scan when you spray?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dry Kit - 100 shot

Everything told me to gap at .040! @&#$%!! Guess I will be paying to have the plugs regapped when it gets tuned.

So are you saying that is probably what it is? Check engine light came on, flashed, and then went off. Haven't seen it since.
 

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'06 Z06, '05 CTS-V 453rwhp/434rwtq (sold)
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Stock gap is .040

Ted is right, you should be around .032
 

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The TR6's should have come out of the box gapped at right around .035 and that is what I am gapped at for my 125 wet shot with a perfect Afr, no spark knock, and no spark blow out, but .032 couldnt hurt!

Your tuner can check the history and see what the check engine light was. Are you spraying Pre-maf or post maf? What are you using to retard timing and how much timing are you pulling? What are your other mods and what size injectors do you have?

I'm no expert but I have probably read at least 500 pages of literature about nitrous since I have started my nitrous purchase/install so hopefully I can halep you out a little!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The TR6's should have come out of the box gapped at right around .035 and that is what I am gapped at for my 125 wet shot with a perfect Afr, no spark knock, and no spark blow out, but .032 couldnt hurt!

Your tuner can check the history and see what the check engine light was. Are you spraying Pre-maf or post maf? What are you using to retard timing and how much timing are you pulling? What are your other mods and what size injectors do you have?

I'm no expert but I have probably read at least 500 pages of literature about nitrous since I have started my nitrous purchase/install so hopefully I can halep you out a little!
Definitely appreciate any advice you have. I originally thought my clutch was slipping, but I believe now that it is the plugs.

I am spraying pre-maf and the timing isn't specifically retarted. I called W4M prior to installing the system and he told me that it should be set like it needs to be. When the NOS sprays, the computer should compensate and the timing actually gets reduced for me. I don't understand it, but I trust him.

Other mods are a K&N filter, FFV intake and a magnaflow catback.
 

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What Jesse meant is that if you are spraying Pre-Maf the MAF sensor should "see" the nitrous and compensate for the extra o2 by pulling timing and adding fuel. The tricky part of spraying a dry shot pre-maf is positioning the nitrous nozzle just right. If you spray it right at the MAF you can freeze the wires and that can cause serious problems for your fueling and timing. and if you spray it too far out of the correct air flow your MAF sensor can miss it and not add enough fuel and pull enough timing.

Your MAF Sensor not commanding your PCM to add enough fuel or pull enough timing could be one of the many reasons that you had such a lean condition. That is what I would think happened. But like I said, I am no expert.

If I were going to spray a dry shot I would use an HSW interface to command timing retard when the nitrous is spraying. There are other timing tuners out there, but I have an Interface pull timing for me and it is flawless.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When we installed the system, we directed the nozzle to spray to the side of the air box directly acoss from the MAF. So it isn't directly at the MAF, For example, if the MAF is at 12 o'clock in the airbox, the nozzle is mounted about 6 o'clock and spraying toward 8-9 ish. DO you think that would be a problem?

I take it you are referring to the "Interface Nitrous Controller"? The description on their site is almost verbatim what you were saying, and aside from the $190 price tag, sounds like it would be great.

However, I do still believe that the plugs need to be regapped...right?
 

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When we installed the system, we directed the nozzle to spray to the side of the air box directly acoss from the MAF. So it isn't directly at the MAF, For example, if the MAF is at 12 o'clock in the airbox, the nozzle is mounted about 6 o'clock and spraying toward 8-9 ish. DO you think that would be a problem?

I take it you are referring to the "Interface Nitrous Controller"? The description on their site is almost verbatim what you were saying, and aside from the $190 price tag, sounds like it would be great.

However, I do still believe that the plugs need to be regapped...right?
I honestly couldn't tell you what the proper nozzle to MAF placement would be but here is a link to another thread where Robert (of robertsnitrousservice.com) who is a dry nitrous guru explains some dry nozzle placement stuff. He also recommends the interface controller It also seems like he thinks that the nozzle should be mounted at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock and spray perpendicular to the MAF.:

Need Help Dry Nozzle Placement?

Also, yes, definitely get the plugs regapped, or replaced because they might be bad at this point with such a lean spike.

You will get the kit worked out, After reading a ton about it nitrous is actually pretty simple, and pretty simple to be safe with. Just don't get cocky and overdo it!
 

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Yea guys his nozzle is setup exactly like mine and I have no issues. I had mine tuned after nitrous and my tr6's are gapped however they were out of the box. Hope this helps!

Oh I've also been pretty religious when it comes to cleaning my maf. If yours has never been cleaned since new, it could be due for a cleaning
 

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If I were going to spray a dry shot I would use an HSW interface to command timing retard when the nitrous is spraying. There are other timing tuners out there, but I have an Interface pull timing for me and it is flawless.
Question, I have been researching Nitrous on the CTS-V.

Does the HSW system just use a MAF interceptor to increase the maf signal in time with the nitrous being triggered?? That is a very innovative idea.

I don't know a whole lots about nitrous and the LS6 but I have a lot of experience with it on the LSJ and lots of experience with HPtuners.

For the orginal poster, what was the code that the CEL produced? A lean condition probably wont' be evident in the engine coolant temp, Also the temps you mention aren't that out of the ordinary, 215 is pretty normal for a WOT run, after all lots of energy is being spent.

Like I said before I am not 100% on the LS6 PCM, but without some solid scan data it's hard to say. If the MAF is freezing like some people have mentioned the PCM could be reverting to a VE tuning which would result inconsistent performance.
 

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Is the green light staying lit or is it flickering? I had a surging feeling when the tps voltage wasn't set up correctly, but that went along with my flickering light.
 

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Here's a pic of my nozzle placement for review. I believe his to be the same unless it somehow came loose.

Dan, have you had the bottle refilled yet? I'm not sure 900-100psi of just air would cause this but just a thought that the bottle may be low.

 

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Question, I have been researching Nitrous on the CTS-V.

Does the HSW system just use a MAF interceptor to increase the maf signal in time with the nitrous being triggered?? That is a very innovative idea.

The interface does use a MAF interceptor which incorporates an IAT tricker. It also has options for top end fueling if you give it an RPM signal. I just use it to retard timing.

I have it set to automatically make the PCM think the IAT is 158* whenever the car is spraying. Then I use HPtuners to set that entire IAT column to -6 and away we go!

The interface also incorporates software/hardware so that you can also retard up to 8 degrees of timing without any tuning software, but I just like to do it myself to make sure it is getting done.
 

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I have it set to automatically make the PCM think the IAT is 158*
If you had a maggie you wouldn't have to trick it.


:rimshot:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The light is staying solid as far as I know. And I checked the seup on the airbox and it hasn't moved (loosened).

While I was regapping the plugs, I thought of a couple of new questions.

1. When gapping the plug, do you put the width you want to the center of the plug, or the leading edge? I decreased the gap to where the leading edge of the plug was at .034. Originally, I had the center of the plug at .040.

2. I have decided to replace the wires as well since I am in there. I am trying to decide between the Taylor Thundervolt 8.2 or MSD Super Conductor 8.5. Price is the same. Heard good things about each.
 

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When I checked my gaps I made sure that.035 was the outside edge of the plug with the rest of the plug at less then .035. If you want you can get a set of handmade plug wires from 99BlancoSS on ls1tech he will send you free TR6s with them too. I can't post a price on here cause hes not a sponser.
 
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