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'72 Eldorado Convertible, '97 Eldorado ETC, '93 Fleetwood
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Discussion Starter #1
I mentioned some of this in passing on another thread, but now I think I have it nailed down.

The bolt is firmly tightened on my positive terminal.

However, the spacer (circled in blue) spins easily, although not fully freely. I can spin it with my finger . . .

It now makes sense that I can't get enough juice to the starter.

I'm kind of baffled, though, as to how to remedy this.

I assume that using a washer as another spacer wouldn't conduct well enough.

Replace the bolt? the spacer? or does this mean that the receiving nut on the battery is displaced? Or?

This just seems to be the kind of problem that shouldn't be possible . . .
579381
 

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'85 Sedan de Ville, '10 CTS-V
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Can you remove the spacer and just attach the positive lead directly to the battery?

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'72 Eldorado Convertible, '97 Eldorado ETC, '93 Fleetwood
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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think so, no--the contact in the battery seems to be recessed.

And even if it wasn't, the bolt is too long; it's size for the spacer.

I need to pick up at least a new bolt for the negative, as it's too stripped.

I just don't recall ever encountering spacers like this before; it seems that it should be a single piece with the lug . . .
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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This was a common problem. I had it on my '97. I just added a washer as a spacer. Never had a problem.
Your only other option would be to shorten the bolt.
 

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'72 Eldorado Convertible, '97 Eldorado ETC, '93 Fleetwood
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Discussion Starter #5
I'll try to play with washers tomorrow, then. I have a whole tray from HF that cost about what I needed that day.

I don't think shortening the bot would do it, as it's only threaded part-way up . . .


(I still can't believe that I have nearly identical starting problems on both eldorados, starting on the same day . . .)
 

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'85 Sedan de Ville, '10 CTS-V
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552 Posts
I bought something like these for the + on my '85 with side mount:


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1999 Eldorado ETC
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9 Posts
I mentioned some of this in passing on another thread, but now I think I have it nailed down.

The bolt is firmly tightened on my positive terminal.

However, the spacer (circled in blue) spins easily, although not fully freely. I can spin it with my finger . . .

It now makes sense that I can't get enough juice to the starter.

I'm kind of baffled, though, as to how to remedy this.

I assume that using a washer as another spacer wouldn't conduct well enough.

Replace the bolt? the spacer? or does this mean that the receiving nut on the battery is displaced? Or?

This just seems to be the kind of problem that shouldn't be possible . . .
View attachment 579381
 

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'72 Eldorado Convertible, '97 Eldorado ETC, '93 Fleetwood
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1,024 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The threaded area looks a bit short to shorten and still grip.

579436



To get it out, I had to replace the bold on the ground, as someone apparently used the wrong size bolt along the way. Either that, or O'Reilly just makes them out of too soft a metal, as it occurs to me that this is probably the same care I bought that for previously . . . (which also means I already had another somewhere in the garage0).

With that out, I pulled this one again, and found that I would tighten a few turns with a ratchet (!) into the connecting plate.

So I reassembled, and the spacer was snug.

I put the charger on 40A and gave it an hour or two, until it dropped from 30 to 10 (which it will take indefinitely), and then set to 200A/

Still the single click.

So tomorrow, yet another round of taking them both off to add a washer or two . . .

With a bit more effort, I suppose that GM could have made these harder to reach with tools, but . . .
 

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'85 Sedan de Ville, '10 CTS-V
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552 Posts
If I'm not mistaken you can replace that metal part that you are gripping with the pliers....

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2014 ELR
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40 Posts
The spacer is used when you have two battery cables to attach instead of one. When the spacer is used you use the long bolt. If you only have one positive cable to attach you need a short battery bolt. The first step is to remove the long bolt from the cable. Put your ratchet on the bolt and apply pressure on the other end of the bolt while you "unscrew" it out of the terminal. The reverse the ratchet and "screw" the new short battery bolt in to the terminal. Now you can get rid of the spacer and the cable should be tight.
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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That bolt appears to either have the threads stripped or it has stripped the threads in the battery.
 

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2001 eldorado,2008 DTS,2005 XLR, '96 eldo,'95 eldo,' 89 eldo,'78 eldo,'11CTS-V
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1,714 Posts
Methinks your battery's shot. Charging for two hours at 40 amps, and it's down to 10, indicates a sad battery.
Plus it looks like lead deposits on the terminal bolt threads as Ranger said (stripped battery threads)...AND the bolt is wrong.
Single cable gets a short bolt like on the - side...with no spacer.
 

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'72 Eldorado Convertible, '97 Eldorado ETC, '93 Fleetwood
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Discussion Starter #14
gosh, it was so grimy, I missed the stripped threads . . .

I would need to also change the cable head, I think, to not use a spacer--the rubber protrusion would stop the plate in the cable from making contact with the recessed battery contact.

I did, though, see replacement spacer and bolt on the shelf in the store, so that's next.

The battery is only a few months old. Reading 10 indefinitely is pretty much the norm to every battery I've had set to the 40A cycle on that charger.

thanks
 

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2014 ELR
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40 Posts
If you use the short bolt you shouldn't need a spacer. The rubber part is supposed to seal against the battery case around the terminal while the metal ring makes full contact with the battery terminal.
 
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