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Discussion Starter #1
I've posted in numerous different forums about my car trouble that i was having.

it all started with a bad water pump in the summer of 2002. within a month that water pump was replaced, car started overheating severly into the reds. I didn't know what was up but i put 3 gallons of water in to the car and then drove straight to the dealer. They ran their tests and told me that they couldn't replicate the problem and told me to bring in later. Few weeks later my car started overheating severly into the reds while i'm stuck in traffic (it also started burning oil severely, no visible exhaust gas). I take the car back and tell them what was going on. They gave me the same answer and told me to bring the car back when it's overheating(??? that's a 70 mi drive while it's cooking hot). This cycle continued on. Sometime during all this, my car ran into another problem, it started running very rough on cold starts. I didn't care much in the beginning but it started to become more apparent. And few more months passed by. It was sometime during late summer or early fall, Car started misfiring severly whether it's running or not, SES light came on i had it read with the obdii reader and it said the cylinder X and Y were misfiring. I took the car in and told them to look at it and a complete transmission fluid service and flushing while at it. Day or two after i got the car back, i was on the highway and i noticed that car stopped shifting to overdrive. I took the car back the following day or two. They told me that solenoid valve was bad and needs to be replaced so i did. I got a phone call few days later told me that my car was ready to be picked up. So I picked up the car the following day, on the way home i realized that the $400+ repair that i just paid for didn't make any difference in fact it was getting worse as i drove to my destination and back to the dealer. Well after a good talk with the service dept manager, they agreed to do the whole repair free of charge. I got the car back in few and realized that car was misfiring again, I called cadillac told them what was up and they had the dealer personally pick up the car and get it checked. They identified the problem as blown headgasket. And did the gasket job and spark plug replacement. Ever since the summer time my car hasn't been running smoothly and it burns more oil than any other automobile that i've been in and it started overheating recently once again.


This weekend i decided to do a complete overhaul of cooling system so i purchased a brand new radiator. Upon opening the covers, i discovered the source of the problem. Water pump was leaking. It must have been leaking for a long time because there's a rust on the parts where the coolant leaked on.
 

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Something doesn't sound right.
If you think the problem was the water pump, where was the oil going and why was it running rough (missing)?
Anti-freeze doesn't make things rust......does it? I always thought there were chemicals in anti-freeze that kept it from corroding components.....?
If the head gasket was blown, you should have found anti-freeze in the oil or vise-versa.
 

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1984 Fleetwood Brougham coupe
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Really the green anti-freeze is just that.. ANTI-Freeze not anti-rust. My GF's lil brother found it out the hard way by not dilluting the anti-freeze with water. Talk about a mess. I'm not sure about the newer type of anti-freeze that suppose to last 100k mile.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lux hauler said:
Something doesn't sound right.
If you think the problem was the water pump, where was the oil going and why was it running rough (missing)?
Anti-freeze doesn't make things rust......does it? I always thought there were chemicals in anti-freeze that kept it from corroding components.....?
If the head gasket was blown, you should have found anti-freeze in the oil or vise-versa.
Gradual water leak through the water pump caused the car to overheat into red several times. Overheat caused blown headgasket. Blown headgakset lead to excessive carbon buildup on the sparkplug(or just a bad set of spark plugs/wires). It may just be the stain from the dexcool anti-freeze(orange) making it look like rust but from my initial observation i belive it's a rust stain not an anti-freeze stain.
Car only overheated when it wasn't moving. I'm not sure where the oil is going but excessive oil comsumption began when the car started overheating.
 

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And as usual ( Unfortunately ) The dealer service dept. dropped the ball. It's the same old story over and over again.....You take a car to the dealer with an obvious problem and they can't seem to figure it out! I have said it before and I'll say it again... The ineptitude of dealer service dept's. is astounding and is also a major contributor to the lack of customer satisfaction that we're always hearing about!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i'm not even sure if they actually replaced the water pump or not. They did the solenoid valve replacement and had no impact on the transmission problem, replaced the spark plug/wire set 3 times before they addressed the misfiring issue, and wheel bearing which has no impact on the vibration which seems to be a powertrain vibration :( I'm beginning to wonder what they do in the shop when they have my car for weeks. (They did a lot of coolant flushing but it never looked like they did. Even the buick technician tought that coolant color was way too discolored to be flushed)
 

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I'm tryin' to recover from the shock! I've got a session with my therapist this morning and he's gonna try to talk me through it!
 

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'76 Eldo convertible, 97' STS Z-rated, '02 STS
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lux hauler said:
Something doesn't sound right.
If you think the problem was the water pump, where was the oil going and why was it running rough (missing)?
Anti-freeze doesn't make things rust......does it? I always thought there were chemicals in anti-freeze that kept it from corroding components.....?
If the head gasket was blown, you should have found anti-freeze in the oil or vise-versa.
Umm -- actually yes there ARE chemicals in anti-freeze that prevent corrosion. In fact the anti-corrosive behavior is the main reason for keeping your antifreeze fresh. Otherwise, you'll be spending money on water pumps and radiators and worse head gaskets etc. when the cooling system runs dry because of corrosion-based leaks.

I've honestly been amazed to see in print by some consumer web sites and print recommendations to leave the anti-freeze in the system forever and just check the specific gravity periodically to ensure adequate freeze protection. Don't do it! These people are just wrong.

Of course now GM is using 6 year / 150,000 mile antifreeze... Still make sure you flush at the recommended interval (I expect to have mine well beyond those limits... :)


Ells
 
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