Cadillac Owners Forum banner
  • BEWARE OF SCAMMERS. Anyone trying to get your money should be checked out BEFORE you send anything anywhere.

Solved: crank/no start

Tags
resolved
13K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  Padgett  
#1 ·
I have a 2009 CTS Base 3.6L non-DI ~133k. About 2 weeks ago my car started shuttering at low speed. I was spending time at my girlfriends so I figured it could wait another day to get an oil change. When I was leaving to go onto the highway it didn't want to get to 60+ mph so I pulled over and checked the oil. Level was low but I wouldn't say it was empty. I bought 2 quarts put that in the car and then drove back to GF (10 mins vs 20 mins home). Next day get an oil change but shutter still persists, go to autozone they check it and state cylinder 2 misfire and suggest tune up. I go home 2 days later going 40mph on access roads. When I get home I work on changing spark plugs and inspecting COPs. I only change the 2 plug but when I go to start it its misfiring even worse but runs (found out later I forgot the airbox connection). I take the next day off and go to change all the plugs with ACD 41-990 this time I unplug the battery connection under the hood where you place the + to jumpstart it. When I put it back together now the car will crank but not start. I've checked all my connections multiple times and actually put the old plugs back in except the originally misfiring one and it still will not start.
  1. I know I have what seems to be a bad battery but even jumpstarting it with another car it will not start.
  2. Anti-theft doesn't seem to be engaged. light goes off when I put in the on position or try to crank.
  3. checked fuses under the hood. All seem to be intact.
  4. No sunroof.
  5. Car drove fine before stuttering on Wed, Thurs put oil in, Sat drove home, Sun worked on it.
I'm at the GF at the moment but will return on the weekend. I've read about the throttle relearn process but all the threads seems to suggest it would at least start. Is there any other suggestions I could look into to fix this? I'm assuming it has to do with unplugging the cable in the engine bay since before I did that it did start(poorly) but just can't think of anything else that would have caused this for such a simple operation such as a spark plug change.
 
#6 ·
if your battery is damaged or dead it might not start even with a proper battery on another vehicle...I recall trying to jump start a vehicle that sat and the owner claimed the battery was still good but the battery on the jumping vehicle was good...no luck...when I saw smoke from the connection I got him to stop trying to jump the vehicle that had sat...

a new battery for the vehicle that had sat started it right up and is still working as designed today...

Bill
 
  • Like
Reactions: Long
#11 · (Edited)
I tried to check codes but because battery was changed they seem to be wiped. Also since it doesn't start I don't think new ones will be stored. I'm thinking timing chain popped when i started it the one time after. Does that seem probable. I don't remember any click or anything odd though. I hope not but i can't think anything else. I just put the new plugs back in and tried again. I can smell fuel on the plugs and the starter seems to be trying.
 
#14 ·
Was going to have it towed to a shop when I figured I'd try 1 last time, and this time it started. Im not sure what did it but I unplugged and replugged all connections in the engine bay i could've possibly hit them I was pulsing the gas pedal and it started. I still have a misfire but no code because of the battery disconnect. Thanks for the ideas everybody.
 
#15 ·
I was pulsing the gas pedal and it started.
GM is fairly consistent about a lot of things with their cars over the years. I believed at one time, that applying the gas pedal in a fuel injected car was useless, because fuel injection did not work like a carb (Fuel isn't sucked out of them). When I started tampering with engine management code, I discovered I was wrong.

The fueling with pedal input while cranking an FI car works like this; any input while cranking the motor, up to a designated throttle position, adds cranking fuel and usually beyond 75% throttle input, cuts fuel off, resulting in a clear flood crank. Some of you may remember the sticker on the visor of some earlier FI cars that instructed applying the gas pedal during starts in very cold weather if difficulty starting was encountered (denser air needing more fuel).

I believe you may have a fuel pressure/pump problem, or a vacuum leak, or failing sensor related to fueling and/or ignition; MAF sensor, crank position sensor.
 
#16 · (Edited)
A good scan tool can check all of those (including low and high fuel pump pressure) except the crank sensor with just the key on, does not need to be running. Can check timing chain just by pulling a spark plug and cranking, compression stroke will be audible.
Guess auto shop is no longer a high school class.