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Snout pulleys here $150 shipped.

1907 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  wait4me
Hi guys,

I have a limited run of front SNOUT upper blower pulleys here that im going to sell. They cost me 138 each to have made not counting shipping. If anyone wants one, they can have them for $150.


This is the UPPER pulley and they are complicated to put on. A shop with a press will be needed and a drill press and a pin will be neeeded to make it work.
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am i the only one that thinks boost is like Crack!!! ?

i ordered mine !!

thanks
jesse
Does this mean there will be no crank pulleys coming .. ?:suspect:

Rob
Naw crank pulleys should be here VERY shortly. I should have them in stock in the week.
Jess,

Will the "boost" program on my handheld work with a crank pulley or will I need to send it back for a new tune? (I will be running your CAI, AR headers, and a crank pulley).

Thanks,

Mike C
It will work with the 5% overdrive and the 10%
It will work with the 5% overdrive and the 10%
How much additional boost is expected from the 5% and 10% overdrive pullies?

This IS the way I'm going, so I'm very interested... :bouncy:
whether you're adding a bigger blower or cranking up the boost on a smaller blower you're still looking at a very similar effect on the pistons there bud... you might want to revisit your previous comment lol... personally i think it can handle some additional blow lol. errrmm hmm yea well anyway my question is if you can have a boost controller to run a certain amount of boost the majority of the time and dial it up when you want it. i know you can on turbos, but i'm not exactly sure you can do this as easily without adding wastegate actuators and such. also, could a blowoff valve be used on the lines somewhere to eliminate the blower cough and relieve pressure?

waiting to be educated... thanks
whether you're adding a bigger blower or cranking up the boost on a smaller blower you're still looking at a very similar effect on the pistons there bud... you might want to revisit your previous comment lol...
LOL.

I'm not even sure of the best response:

(1) No sh*t...
(2) DUH...
(3) Yes, I'm aware of that.

Forged pistons would be my top-priority if I was looking to increase my boost, which I am (I would feel fine with the stock, cast pistons if I was just changing the exhaust system), which is exactly why I was asking if the LS9 forged pistons will work in the LSA (I mean, did you even read that entire post in that thread?). Otherwise, I guess I'm looking at having someone make some forged pistons for me.

Perhaps you are right and the cast pistons can reliably handle, say, 600rwhp.

Are you willing to take that chance though?

I'm not sure I am...I don't want to have a boat-anchor at, say, 35,000 miles, for they often don't even fix the block if you blow a piston--they just go with a whole new motor
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I forgot to say, These where made to look like stock and even take the stock end cap on them so they will look like oem when installed on the car. They are black in color and use the plastic retaining clip on the end just like the factory pulley. Kinda of a cheater pully if you will....
sighs... as clear as a stained glass window... lol

different pulleys bigger blower... same shiz as far as results, just a less taxed and more efficiency with the blower change. regardless the other post you were yammering about putting forged internals in before this and this post you were talking about changing pulleys without the forged internal point... so in response to your question... yes i did read your post and no... you weren't clear. ;)

Thoughts?

I find it interesting that many people are talking about adding mad power to the LSA, but it doesn't seem to me that many people are very much worried about the stock pistons that reside within.

You want something like 600rwhp and want it to be reliable/live? I'd talk about going to forged pistons (& whatever other internals you want to replace) WAY BEFORE I'd even consider adding the LS9 supercharger...
You two need to get a room... :hide:
LOL.

I'm not even sure of the best response:

(1) No sh*t...
(2) DUH...
(3) Yes, I'm aware of that.
sighs... as clear as a stained glass window... lol

different pulleys bigger blower... same shiz as far as results, just a less taxed and more efficiency with the blower change. regardless the other post you were yammering about putting forged internals in before this and this post you were talking about changing pulleys without the forged internal point... so in response to your question... yes i did read your post and no... you weren't clear. ;)
Perhaps you should have made an inquiry prior to your comment rather than making an assumption. :thepan:

I do admit, however, that Hog's recent post provided some terrific insight about the stock, cast pistons.
My car makes about 550RWHP has over 8,000 miles and was modded at less than 1,000 miles or so. I have beat the ever living crap out of it. Everyday I give customers rides on the track. When we have events at our track I run it 5-10 times a night. When Gumball came last week I made at least 30 passes in it. I am guessing well over 100 passes now and is perfect. As long as you have a good conservative tune you are fine. No doubt we could have tuned mine for a little more power, but 11.7 at 123 on PS2's is good enough. :) Just don't try to tune every last HP out of it.
Exactly. I cant even count the amount of dyno pulls and drag runs and weekend non stop wide open throttle around road coarses that i have put mine thru at the 590~ hp level. Yes we could get higher hp but what is the point of going higher if it could pop at any second. Im at 10,000 miles on my test caddy. 85% of that has been VERY , I repeat, VERY abusive to the motor and all the drivetrain components. Above and beyond what 99% of ANY ctsv driver would ever treat his car. If mine lasts 10k miles, then a normal person would be at 60k worth of wear by now.

AS i have posted before, the only issue i would ever see on someones car that will cause problems is the isolator dampner coupler in between the blower unit and blower snout. If i would have left that part stock, it would continue to get worse and worse with that nasty marble sound/knock sound at idle. And would eventualy break.
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