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SLS 1997
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Short introduction: my name is Otto, 26 yo from The Netherlands and since a month ago the proud owner of a Seville SLS from 1997. Lived in the States a couple of years and always had a thing for American cars. Promised myself my first car would be an American. Kept my promise :).

She's a beauty and drives so smooth! However, I do have a couple of problems. I hope you guys can help me out.

Notes: - I don't have a fusebox for the maxi-fuses (driver-side next to the engine). Previous owner put a rubber mat over it. Looking for a new one.
- It's winter here (cold and wet). Maybe the fuses get moist?

* First of all sometimes she won't start (warm or cold engine, doesn't matter). I'll turn the key and all the lights go on and I'll hear 1 click (relay?). Then I'll have to turn the key again (sometimes only once, sometimes up to 20-30 times). The previous owner told me he had the starter motor replaced a year ago.

* Second: When I start the engine and pull i'll drive for about 500 meters (or around 40 seconds) and sometimes the engine stalls. I'll have to stop the car, put it in park and start her up again (without problems). Normally it happens when the engine is cold, but today I drove for a while and came back after 1.5 hours (motor wasn't cooled down entirely) and it happened again. Also when I start the car and leave it in park (had to remove ice from the windows) the engine stalls (sometimes). Almost like it dies when the choke stops? Note: It only happens when I start the car (thank God).

* Third: I'm aware of the fact that an older automatic gearbox always wants "to go", but it seems a bit extreme. When I'm driving it accelerates on its own. I think it does it up to 80 km/ph (50 m/ph), on the highway no so much and it slows down a bit when I have my foot off the gas pedal. I doesn't rev up and i don't have a feeling like the gas is stuck because I can hear a clear difference when I tap the gas a bit (engine revs up). It doesn't accelerate fast, but still I have a feeling that it's not normal.

General question: she has 225,000 km. (140k miles) on her. Fluids are good and of good quality. How should you drive such a car? I know she's not a racer and I shouldn't burn rubber at every traffic light. But should I drive in gears 3 or 2 sometimes? Kickdown and push her in high rpm's once in a while?


So what do you guys think? For the first 2 problems I'm thinking it could have something to do with the missing fusebox. I also noticed that the wires connecting to my battery are a bit old and not in tact (you can see the copper wiring). Maybe there's dirt between the connectors?

Third: Idle/Air Control System needs replacement? Although it's strange, I can't see or hear the engine revving.

Thanks in advance guys!

Arbi (Otto)
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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:welcome:

1. I wouldn't worry too much about the fuse box cover. Find one and replace it when you can.

2. Can you start it by holding the key in the start position and moving the gearshift through the gears? Are the battery cable clean & tight? Have you pulled the DTC's? See the Sticky at the top of the forum page where you posted this thread. Post your codes AND their definitions.

3. The IAC valve is monitored so it should set a DTC if it is bad. Check for a vacuum leak. Don't overlook the manifold over pressure relieve valve. It's a spring loaded flapper valve in the tunnel behind the P/S pump. Oh yeah, give the TB a good cleaning. There is a tutorial in Tech Tips if needed. See the pics below.

4. Drive it like you stole it. Give it a good whoop'in about once a month. You won't hurt it. Go to the Technical Archive at the upper left of this page in the black bar and read up on "oil consumption" and "full throttle acceleration".



 

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SLS 1997
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Discussion Starter #3
@Ranger

Thanks a lot! I'm not sure what you mean with "Can you start it by holding the key in the start position and moving the gearshift through the gears?".
I will pull the DTC's tonight and post any codes given. I read up on vacuum leaks and check a few youtube tutorials. I think you might be right! I runs roughly at idle. Sometimes around 700-800 rpm and sometimes around 1200-1300. Even the sudden stalls when I just started the car might make sense.

I have a mechanic who has a passion for American cars but he's not an official Cadillac mechanic. To be honest, I've never seen a Seville driving here in The Netherlands so they are quite rare. So I'm thinking the same goes for parts. Repairing a vacuum leak (the rubber ring) and getting the right parts, would that be a big deal? I don't want to look like a know-it-all by telling him what would be wrong and how he should repair it. I'm not that handy when it comes to car. I understand the problems and might figure it out by myself but the actual repairing might be difficult :(.

Thanks again buddy!
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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@Ranger

Thanks a lot! I'm not sure what you mean with "Can you start it by holding the key in the start position and moving the gearshift through the gears?".
Turn the key to the start position like you normally would, but do not release it, hold it in that position (when it won't start). Now while holding it, move the gear selector slowly through the gear positions. If it starts, you're neutral safety switch is failed or out of adjustment.

I will pull the DTC's tonight and post any codes given. I read up on vacuum leaks and check a few youtube tutorials. I think you might be right! I runs roughly at idle. Sometimes around 700-800 rpm and sometimes around 1200-1300. Even the sudden stalls when I just started the car might make sense.
To check for vacuum leaks, simply spray some Brakleen, TB cleaner or such around all the vacuum fittings (including the manifold over pressure relief valve) while at idle and listen for an RPM increase. If the RPM increases, you've found your vacuum leak. If it turns out to be the valve, you may not need the rubber gasket. Might simply need to be cleaned for a better seal.

P.S.
That valve will be more highly suspect if you have had a backfire aka manifold over pressurization.

I don't want to look like a know-it-all by telling him what would be wrong and how he should repair it. I'm not that handy when it comes to car. I understand the problems and might figure it out by myself but the actual repairing might be difficult :(.
All depends on how you approach it. Tell him you found a site with some guys that know the Northstar very well (a little white lie won't hurt) and they offered this advice.

You would expect a mechanic anywhere to be familiar with how to locate a vacuum leak, but in a place with few of these cars, he may not be familiar with all the places (like the one pictured above). EVERY car has it's little idiosyncrasies. That's why sometimes a dealer mechanic is best. They know the car very well, while a general mechanic is a sort of jack of all car, master of none, to put a spin on the phrase. Not knocking a general mechanic in any way mind you.
 

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SLS 1997
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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Ranger,

Thanks for answering my questions again! Just got back from the car and didn't read your comment, so I'll give the whole shifting through gears a try next time! Also I'll buy the stuff you mentioned and try it out!

So the car gave me a few codes. Here's the list:

PCM P0101 (current) - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
PCM P0108 (history) - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
PCM P0121 (history) - Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
PCM P0151 (history) - Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
PCM P0155 (current) - 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
PCM P0300 (current) - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
PCM P0507 (history) - Idle Air Control (IAC) System RPM Higher Than Expected
PCM P0603 (history) - Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
PCM P1106 (history) - MAP sensor circuit intermittent high voltage
PCM P1350 (history) - Ignition Contol System (http://engine-codes.com/p1350_cadillac.html)
PCM P1520 (history) - Transmission Range Switch Circuit (http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=12932)
PCM P1599 (history) - Engine Stall or near Stall Detected

ACM B1312 (current) - High side temperature open circuit
ACM B1348 (history) - AC not working (which is true (disconnected))

PZM B1552 (history) - memory reset code
PZM B1971 (history) - Inadvertent Power
PZM B1981 (history) - ???
PZM B1983 (history) - Device Power Circuit Low
PZM B2470 (current) - Cellular Phone Antenna Circuit (2000+)

IRC B1740 (history) - Driver Seat Front Down Switch CKT Malfunction (got stuck once, but still working)


Am I being paranoid or is this a hell of a list? Although most is history, how far back are we talking here? A few rides back and does it mean it'll happen again?

Anyway, I'm gonna read about these codes and hopefully you guys can help me out and see if these codes have anything to do with my problems.

Thanks a lot!
 

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98 DeVille, 97 DeVille d'Elegance
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Codes stay in History until they are cleared, usually when you start having multiple issues clear all the codes and see what comes back otherwise who knows what happened when history wise.
 

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SLS 1997
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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, thanks Rodnok. However I read that after 50 start-runs these history codes disappear by themselves. This would mean my history codes are "fresh" and might reoccur, right?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Yes, your history codes are relatively new - but during the time since the code was first set the fault has not been detected again. Some codes self-clear after 30, others after 50 or even 100 successful start-run-monitor cycles.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for replying! So should I log the codes, clear them and then drive a couple of times and see what the actually current codes are?

By the way, can you guys see any correlation between the problems I mentioned in my first post and the codes mentioned in my third post? From what I can tell most codes have something to do with a vacuum leak.

Still the starting problem remains. Because Ranger told me to see if the neutral safety switch is failed or out of adjustment and I got the PCM P1520 code it had me thinking! Sometimes when I put my gear in D I can still move it (without pushing the release-button on the gear selector) and it will go into 3. Sometimes it even says D on the display but the gear selector will look like it's in 3.

However when turning the key all the lights will go out and I still hear a click (like a normal start but without cranking). I'm not sure if it would do that as well in D. I'll try! And still, when it doesn't start most of the times I won't even touch the gear selector, I'll just turn the key back and forth a couple of times and it'll magically crank.

Thanks for all the advice so far guys! I'm no mechanic and all but I would love to at least diagnose my own problems and maybe even try to fix the easier things :).
 

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White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
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Having so many history codes, it might be easier to clear 'em all and see what reapers.

That P1520 is awfully suspicious and mighty well be your starting problem, especially if wiggling the gear shift solves it.
 

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(1971 Ford Mach 1) 1995 STS + 2006 STS-V
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Could be the Starter enable relay... My 95 would not start when it was cold out. Every time I had the car towed (3x) it would start at my mechanics due to the fact the sun warmed the car up and them leaving the car inside overnight. Well after a week of battling I decided to troubleshoot the whole Cranking system including the VATS part of it. When I got to the Starter enable realy it was all corroded from years of dragging snow in and the aftermarket sunroof the Previous owner installed.


Starter Enable relay.jpg
 

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SLS 1997
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hey SQPL,

I've been thinking the same thing. Did you also hear a click/tick when you tried to start it? The strange thing is that it will sometimes not start, but after trying a couple of times right after the failed attempt (same temp.) it just starts. So I'm not quite sure if it's a temperature thing (however it is winter here).

It kinda looks and sounds like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJkuGqyaGME&spfreload=10. But the car in this movie keeps ticking/clicking, mine only clicks once when I turn the key. Also his lights keep going on and off while mine stay off as long as I have the key in ignition position.

Thanks!
 

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SLS 1997
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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, found a tutorial on how to clean a throttle body. I'm going to do that this Saturday. Guy at a store advised me to use this stuff. I told him I didn't want the aggressive stuff. What do you guys think.



I'm also gonna clean my mass airflow sensor. I should use an electro cleaning spray (alcohol based) or a specific MAF sensor cleaner, right?
The guys in the store told me not to clean it (but the availability of MAF sensor cleaners here in The Netherlands is low). However I found this: https://www.conrad.nl/nl/product/_jcr_content/productimage.productimageoverlay.000814619.html . Should be right, shouldn't it?

And again guys, thank a lot! Not only will fixing these problem save me money, I actually enjoy doing it!
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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That picture indicates the product is too strong to use as a choke or throttlebody cleaner - it's intended to cut combustion carbon products. Throttlebody sprays clean hardened oil vapor products. If the MAF is not obviously coated with black oily deposits I would be very careful when using powerful solvents - there are 3 tiny heated resistors across the bridges - break one of those and the MAF is useless.

http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/tchdta/290.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41yFXjibtLY

Your MAF is bolted directly to the throttlebody and the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor is probably separate, but here's a basic look -
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Dadgummit! When the guy gave me this can I specifically told him that I'm cleaning my throttle body and I don't want anything aggressive (like carb. cleaner or brake cleaner). I'm taking the EGR & turbo intake cleaner right back.

Thanks for checking that for me submariner409!

I'm sorry to keep bothering you guys with these newbie questions, but I just want to the job done well.

Apparently everybody here in The Netherlands cleans their throttle bodies with carb. cleaner because I can only find 2 throttle body cleaners on webshops.

So for my throttle body I'll order:
http://www.topworld.nl/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/g/a/gasklep_reiniger.jpg or

https://rhcleaningproducts.nl/image-view/515/original.jpg or

http://static.mijnwebwinkel.nl/winkel/autocentrumduivendrecht/article16756906.jpg (which is the most expensive: €33! But it says it can be used on throttle bodies with a special coating)


And for my MAF sensor I'll order: https://www.conrad.nl/medias/global/ce/8000_8999/8100/8140/8146/814619_BB_00_FB.EPS.jpg


Does that seems about right?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Looks good from here.

For the interior of the throttlebody I use a stick of wood or a baseball bat, against the driver's seat, to hold the gas pedal to the floor - adjust the seat to keep it there. I then use lint free rags and an old tooth brush to scrub the TB blade (both sides) and the interior bore.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks buddy! I'm gonna order 'em right away! For the TB cleaner I'll go for the safest option and order the expensive one (Forté), because it says it doesn't affect the special coating.

Oh, and by the way, while I'm cleaning those 2 parts I'm might as well clean the Idle Air Control Valve, right? Should I use the TB cleaner or the MAF sensor cleaner for the IACV? And I can't really see it on the pics in the tutorial, but does the IACV have a gasket (which I should replace when I'm cleaning the IACV)?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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IF your throttlebody has the IAC motor on the front (left) side - as opposed to a solenoid operated throttle stop screw motor - then you remove the 2 Torx or Philips screws and the assembly slides out - O ring. Use either cleaner and swab out the inner bore, any air passage you see, and carefully wipe off the plunger "top hat". Try not to get excess cleaner up the IAC operating shaft - no sense in affecting the coil insulation.

At install I like to use a tiny smear of grease on the O ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok thanks! I'll check it out. And which cleaner do I use: the TB cleaner or the MAF sensor cleaner?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Either is satisfactory.

For pictures and diagrams of Northstar parts and work (but from 2002) see my albums - click my username, open the profile. Left column, 2 albums 6 pages of stuff.

For YOUR car, consider a multi-year subscription to www.alldatadiy.com. It's the GM service manuals plus a LOT more, and you can print diagrams and PDF text from the site.
 
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