[Stuck]

On 12-18-06 I indicated a cost of $333.16 ( CDN ) for the replacement of the right signal light bulb through Jack Carter Chevrolet Cadillac - Calgary Alberta. This was based on shop time of 2.0 - 2.5 hrs. ( @ 112.00/hr ) and requiring removal of the front bumper fascia and grille to access the lamp assembly. There was on top of the time charges misc. add ons bringing the total up to the $333.16 invoice.
On July 17/07 I had the left signal light bulb changed at a local Body Shop with the job taking less than 1 hour ( incuding a 10 minute wait for the proper bulb to be delivered. Their procedure was to follow the the Operators Manual instructions for bulb replacement where as the Service Manager at Jack Carters stated the manual was not correct.
For those who responded to my previous thread indicating this may be a warranty situation ( my unit is well off the standard warranty ) I did bring this up and can still here the laughter. Indeed, I guess the dealer one has says a lot.

 

[MortnCyn]

When you state, "Their procedure was to follow the Operators Manual instructions for bulb replacement.." are you referring to the manual that comes with the vehicle?
If so, your manual has info we do not get in the states. Regarding bulb replacement, my manual only refers to HID bulbs and says to have the dealer change these bulbs.

 

[Stuck]

MortnCyn ---- yes it is the Operators Manual that comes with the vehicle and is located in Section 5 under the heading signal light bulb replacement procedure ( or something like that -- I don't have my manual with me right at this time or could tell you for sure ). Anyway its now proven front end parts do not have to be removed in order to change these bulbs --- the same procedure applys to the fog light bulbs.

 

[MortnCyn]

Stuck: Is your manual on your computer as a pdf file. If so, could you post the instructions for changing the turn signal bulb. On this side of the border the manual does not mention how to change the turn signal bulb. Have seen various posts re changing but possibly your instructions will make it easier for my dealer (Poage Auto Mall previously Tallman Cadillac). Both have been very good on service on my '04 as well as the '05.

My right front went out yesterday. Got the fast flash on the turn signal indicator. Then it was OK and then it went out again.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ewill3rd]

I have found the best way to change the bulb is to raise the vehicle, remove the front tire on the affected side, then remove the forward section of the inner fender to access the back of the lamp.

Leave the lamp in place, there are 6 torx screws that hold the front and rear halves of the lamp together, simply remove these 6 fasteners.
Then gently pull the back of the lamp off to access the insides.
I generally replace the bulb and carefully inspect the socket.
The greatest number of failures come with the plastic based bulbs, the wires get so hot they melt into the plastic base and there is no pressure on the socket contact. This can also affect the socket due to the heat generated by this poor contact condition.
I haven't looked yet, GM gives us the plastic based bulbs.
If you can find one that matches the trade number on the bulb that has a glass base... buy it!

HTH.

 

[r_casino]

Manual pages attached as images...

 

[MortnCyn]

Casino: Thanks for taking the time to scan the pages to jpeg images. Real good information to have available.

 

[DaBronxBoy]

Has anyone done this procedure themselves? Is it pretty easy to do? I have an 05' awd and would hate to spend several hours at the dealer just to replace a bulb....

thanx

 

[ewill3rd]

I have done a few.... dozen.
It is not hard.
You can do it without removing the front wheels, but it is a lot easier.
You can turn the wheels all the way one way for one side and the other way for the other, but if you have some jack stands, a decent trim removal tool, and a few torx screwdrivers you could probably easily do this yourself. Although you might need to get sockets also.

 

[DaBronxBoy]

I have done a few.... dozen.
It is not hard.
You can do it without removing the front wheels, but it is a lot easier.
You can turn the wheels all the way one way for one side and the other way for the other, but if you have some jack stands, a decent trim removal tool, and a few torx screwdrivers you could probably easily do this yourself. Although you might need to get sockets also.

Where can i get the trim removal tool, and torx screwdriver?

 

[john d]

Where can i get the trim removal tool, and torx screwdriver?

Please, don't take offense...but if you don't know that then go to the dealer and spend a few dollars, or find a friend that has them and knows how to use them to help you.
Otherwise, inadvertent damage caused by the inexperienced could cost thousands replacing computers, wiring or the entire car if fire breaks out.
Unfortunately, I speak (and learned) from years of experience.

 

[TSS]

Please, don't take offense...but if you don't know that then go to the dealer and spend a few dollars.
Otherwise, inadvertent damage caused by the inexperienced could cost thousands replacing computers, wiring or the entire car if fire breaks out.
Unfortunately, I speak from experience.

Well said. I too have experience - not damaging, but spending 16 hours on a silly job that a professional can do it 45 minutes.

 

[MortnCyn]

I have done a few.... dozen.
It is not hard.
You can do it without removing the front wheels, but it is a lot easier.
You can turn the wheels all the way one way for one side and the other way for the other, but if you have some jack stands, a decent trim removal tool, and a few torx screwdrivers you could probably easily do this yourself. Although you might need to get sockets also.

ewill3rd, since you mention jack stands it appears you need to jack the vehicle up to make the change. Why?

 

[ewill3rd]

You don't necessarily need to, but you do have to remove the inner fender liner, which is much easier with the tires off.
Of course to remove the tires you'd want to raise it.
I always use my lift and it only takes me a few seconds to remove the wheels so I haven't tried it on the ground by turning the wheels, but I suspect it is possible.
Having a lift makes almost every job easier.

 

[MortnCyn]

You don't necessarily need to, but you do have to remove the inner fender liner, which is much easier with the tires off.
Of course to remove the tires you'd want to raise it.
I always use my lift and it only takes me a few seconds to remove the wheels so I haven't tried it on the ground by turning the wheels, but I suspect it is possible.
Having a lift makes almost every job easier.

Dealer replaced our right front bulb under warranty yesterday using this method. I jokingly asked why don't we cut a hole in the fender liner and then cover it with a piece of plastic or metal. Then we could just remove our cover and reach in when a bulb change is required.

 

[Rod04]

Several comments:

1. Amazingly, the procedure is, in fact, right there in the book in section 5 for changing the bulbs w/out taking off the front bumper. Didn't think to look because I didn't think it would be there. Duhh . . .

2. Wonder which method the dealer will use? The service writer said the bumper needed to be removed. Since the factory recommended procedure is in the book and doesn't mention taking off half of the front-end of the car, I don't imagine the dealer will be paid by the factory for other than doing the job as stated in the manual.

3. I will still get the work done at the dealer next week because the car will be in to the dealer anyway for Stability System work (steering position sensor??) plus the turn indictor bulb replacement will be covered by warranty. But I surely wouldn't take the car in just for the bulb replacement.


All in all, this car ('04 SRX RWD) has been an excellent car.

BTW, am I correct in thinking that only Delco makes a replacement battery for that car (group 101 if memory serves me correctly???) Delco is OK, but I think there are better.

 

[ewill3rd]

I have only seen Delco in a 101 series battery.
I am surprised no one has jumped on this one, CTS and STS all use the same battery as well.

 

[Rod04]

Suspect my bulb problem is also a contact problem. The lamp will quit working for a day or two, then work for an hour or three and then go thru this cycle again (and again and again). I know tungsten filaments can weld themselves together if vibration causes the ends of a broken filament to momentarily touch. But again and again??

BTW, thanks for info on the group 101 battery being available only from Delco.

This brings to mind that some years ago, I had a company that sold components for large industrial engine powered projects - huge radiators, specialized controllers, heat recovery equipment, etc. When we sold replacement parts we always priced one of two ways. One way was for parts where there was no generic replacement and the other way for where there was alternatives. I bet we weren't he only ones that did that.

 

[Rod04]

Re: Battery replacement

Not really for this topic but in response to info brought up in this thread

Here is part of a Feb 19, 2007 post from a member "heavymetals) in the CTS forum. Sounds like a battery at least as good and maybe better. My battery took a lot of abuse on a recent trip where the CD changer spent much of every night with it shuffling CDs non-stop while the car was parked and we were in a hotel for the night. This went on, I think, night after night for about a week or two. Sure beats up a battery in a hurry.

The battery is a 690 cca ACDelco in a fairly new group size: 101. Not many places carry a group 101 battery, and those I found were pretty pricey. Now, it turns out that a group 101 is almost exactly the same width and length as a group 78 battery, and about a half-inch shorter. In the cts, incidentally, it sits on a battery tray that's at least that thick.

Solution: Wal-Mart MAXX group 78N. 900 cca. Warranted free replacement for 3 years, prorated replacement for years 4-9. Top of the group 78 ratings at Consumer Reports, and a best buy. Paid all of $68 + tax.

It's a tighter fit than the original, but not so tight as to require bending, cutting or hammering. I though I might have to 'adjust' the thickness of the battery tray, but doing so was not required.

I think I'll measure and possibly try the 78N battery. If I do, I'll take pix and post here.

 

[MortnCyn]

Several comments: 1. Amazingly, the procedure is, in fact, right there in the book in section 5 for changing the bulbs w/out taking off the front bumper. Didn't think to look because I didn't think it would be there. Duhh . . .quote]
Will wonders never cease. I looked in my '04 manual I have in my computer and there it was. But it is not in the '05 manual. Duhh again! Wonder about the '06 and '07 manuals.