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Registered
94 Seville; 95 FWB; 07 DTS
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657 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I came across this beast within the last week, and would be interested to know what yall know about this year and model.

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looking forward to your replies.

oh,this is my first time posting here...so Hi everyone!
 

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Registered
1992 Town Car Cartier & 2014 Accord LX MTX
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34,087 Posts
Yes, buy it. Many agree that those are the best modern day Cadillac.
 

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Auto Enthusiast
1992 Eldorado Touring
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3,688 Posts
It is a '95 or '96 LT1 Powered Fleetwood Brougham.

How many miles?

Inexpensive to maintain because parts are readily available & shared with the Bbody cars (Caprice, Impala SS, Roadmaster)

Relatively good gas mileage for a V8.

Great modification potential. Wolf in sheeps clothing.
 

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Registered
94 Seville; 95 FWB; 07 DTS
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657 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
$6000 cash only, approx 89000 miles. The seller said it is a 93, but there was a VHS in the glove gox that said 1995 blah blah blah. Have not driven it, but it starts right up, AC works radio works, antenna works, underbody is dry (no oil), tyres good, interior good, except for a cat smell, but I do believe a non smoker.

How do you check codes??
 

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Super Moderator
2014 ELR
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10,234 Posts
Look in the trunk, take a photo (or copy down) all the three letter codes on the SPID sticker stuck to the bottom of the trunk lid on the left side.

Look all the options up HERE

If it has LT1, it's not a 93. Dual exhausts will be LT1, as well. Just go to carfax.com and type in the VIN and it will tell you the year and engine.
 

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Auto Enthusiast
1992 Eldorado Touring
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3,688 Posts
It is a '95 or '96 from the side mirrors. Dual openings on the center console is '95, singe opening is '96.

I say $4,000-$4,500 would sound good?
 

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Registered
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306 Posts
Judging by the mirrors, it's absolutely a '95 or '96. Because of the cassette you mentioned, I'd say it's a '95. The way to tell the '93 from the '94 is quite simple. Even though they both have smaller door mounted mirrors, the '93 has a square-ish shaped airbag unit. The '94 steering wheel was restyled to match the new deVille line. In '95 the mirrors were changed and a few little options here and there were changed.
 

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Registered
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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4,414 Posts
Here you're :
To enter diagnostic mode, proceed as follows:
1. With the ignition in the "RUN" position (engine does not necessarily need to be running, but it will work either way).
2. Push (and hold) "OFF" and "WARMER" simultaneously on the Electronic Climate Control (ECC) until all telltales lights illuminate (segment check).
3. Release the "OFF" and "WARMER" buttons.
4. System is now in diagnostic mode. "00" (zero-zero) should now be displayed. This is the pointer.
5. Pressing "OUTSIDE TEMP" will allow you to display the corresponding code for the pointer.
6. Use the "FAN SPEED" override switch (UP/DOWN) to increment or decrement the pointer number.
7. Pressing "AUTO" or turning the ignition switch "OFF" exits diagnotic mode.
Pointers 00-04 contain the stored trouble codes.
o "00" = Powertrain Control Module (PCM) codes
o "01" =
o "02" = Heating, Ventilation and Air-Conditioning (HVAC) codes
o "03" =
o "04" = Anti-lock Brake/Traction Control System (ABS/TC) Codes


I think the best method is for both checking and clearing the codes is that you should have a code reader .
:thumbsup:
 

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Registered
94 Seville; 95 FWB; 07 DTS
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657 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
thx man...I'm on my way to the seller, I'm gonna drive it today then go the bank and inquire about a loan.
 

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Registered
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
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4,414 Posts
no probs, this is why the forums are for and keep us updated with that
 

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Registered
04 ESV Platinum, 96 Eldorado Coachbuilder LTD, 96 FWB
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1,044 Posts
If you do buy it, I dont care if those tires are brand new, Lose them.

Like Jay said.... my eyes!!

I like the color though. Def try to chew him down on the price!!
 

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1,999 Posts
Yeah, you should at least try to haggle the price down. Dealers always charge about 1500 bucks over a private individual. But 6k is still decent considering the mileage and newer (more desirable) mirrors. Personally I would offer 4k and take it at 5k, but 4.5 would be better. But that's just because I'm a bargain hunter and a haggler. Also if this is a hole-in-the-wall used car dealer, then when you haggle, make sure to say "Final drive-out." If you don't then the dealer will tack on hundreds of dollars of "fees." I once haggled a $1500 car down to $500, but he inflated TTL and added stuff like "dealer convenience fees" and "services" which added up to an additional 300 bucks. At the very least, get him to include TTL in the sale price, to keep the price nice and even; I do this at hawk shops all the time and it works every time.

Good luck! :thumbsup:

Greg
 

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Registered
94 Seville; 95 FWB; 07 DTS
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657 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
^^^
yeah, it would be nice if I can go in ther with $5000 cash in hand. But the seller does not look hard up for
money, not sure how much it would entice him.

This is an older guy, runs a small oil change and tyre outfit...he always has company about, don't know if he'd let me talk to him in private...negotiations might go better then.
 

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1,999 Posts
First you take it for a test drive, and even get it inspected if you like (about 70 buck at Pep Boys). Then when you come back, you start rattling off all the problems it has. And if the dealer is not hard up for cash, then he may be willing to come down to Earth for a little bit. Point out EVERYTHING. Any creases in the leather, any door dings, any curb rash, and anything else you can think of. Make sure that you dominate the conversation. Then if you're lucky he might say "so what are you offering?" Then you have him. Offer him 4 grand, then let him respond with 5 grand. Then you respond with a final offer, "Okay, but it has to be final drive-out." This will make him think you're accepting his offer, but you're still going down by a couple hundred bucks.

Or be quick and fast and come out and say in a "cool" manner, "I'll give you 5 grand total drive-out." :cool: Being so quick, he'll probably accept, since it's not outrageously low (only 1000 below asking price). Just be in control at all times, and don't let the dealer think he can push you around or give you BS. Throw out an offer that's low enough that he might accept, but not too low. Otherwise, he'll know you're lowballing him, and he'll know you have more money.

You basically have to understand that dealers severely mark up their cars above what they think they're worth. They do this to make money, but also because they know people will haggle them down. A buyer can just about always get the price down by some amount, even if it's just TTL and fees, and nobody (nobody smart anyways) pays sticker on a used car. One other tip, I would highly suggest you have the car inspected (it's worth the 70 bucks), as "Honest Johns" will commonly undervalue problems. Like for me a "simple AC recharge" turned out to be a bad compressor. Or "just needs new brake pads" turned out to be "needs a master cylinder and brake lines." Hope the sale goes through well.

Greg
 

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Registered
04 ESV Platinum, 96 Eldorado Coachbuilder LTD, 96 FWB
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1,044 Posts
First you take it for a test drive, and even get it inspected if you like (about 70 buck at Pep Boys). Then when you come back, you start rattling off all the problems it has. And if the dealer is not hard up for cash, then he may be willing to come down to Earth for a little bit. Point out EVERYTHING. Any creases in the leather, any door dings, any curb rash, and anything else you can think of. Make sure that you dominate the conversation. Then if you're lucky he might say "so what are you offering?" Then you have him. Offer him 4 grand, then let him respond with 5 grand. Then you respond with a final offer, "Okay, but it has to be final drive-out." This will make him think you're accepting his offer, but you're still going down by a couple hundred bucks.

Or be quick and fast and come out and say in a "cool" manner, "I'll give you 5 grand total drive-out." :cool: Being so quick, he'll probably accept, since it's not outrageously low (only 1000 below asking price). Just be in control at all times, and don't let the dealer think he can push you around or give you BS. Throw out an offer that's low enough that he might accept, but not too low. Otherwise, he'll know you're lowballing him, and he'll know you have more money.

You basically have to understand that dealers severely mark up their cars above what they think they're worth. They do this to make money, but also because they know people will haggle them down. A buyer can just about always get the price down by some amount, even if it's just TTL and fees, and nobody (nobody smart anyways) pays sticker on a used car. One other tip, I would highly suggest you have the car inspected (it's worth the 70 bucks), as "Honest Johns" will commonly undervalue problems. Like for me a "simple AC recharge" turned out to be a bad compressor. Or "just needs new brake pads" turned out to be "needs a master cylinder and brake lines." Hope the sale goes through well.

Greg

I knew i always liked you. lol.

Least im not the only one that refuses to pay asking price. My 81 being a good example eh?
lol
 
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