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1993 STS, 1997 STS, 2002 SLS, 2007 CTS 3.6
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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought 2 shift solenoids for my 93 STS, I have read just about every thread here in regards to them and they keep mentioning a bracket of some sort. I asked the dealer and he had no clue, he sold me the 2 solenoinds a filter and large gasket with another smaller one in the same package.

The question is do I need this bracket or can I use what I have. I asked for a shift solenoid kit and this is all he said I needed. PLEASE let me know if there is anything else I am missing as I plan on tackling this today....

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Realtor1 said:
I just bought 2 shift solenoids for my 93 STS, I have read just about every thread here in regards to them and they keep mentioning a bracket of some sort. I asked the dealer and he had no clue, he sold me the 2 solenoinds a filter and large gasket with another smaller one in the same package.

The question is do I need this bracket or can I use what I have. I asked for a shift solenoid kit and this is all he said I needed. PLEASE let me know if there is anything else I am missing as I plan on tackling this today....

Thanks in advance
No input / suggestions..I didnt get the time to do it yesterday, hoping to get to it today, wanting to get it done b4 friday, I go into surgery to have a kidney removed...so any input would be GREATLY appreciated, dont want to waste the time if i dont have enough parts or whatever..

Also any idea how much fluid the tranny holds?
 

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Hi Rick,

The bracket goes on top of the valve body, once you remove it from the transmission. The bolt that come with it REPLACES the bolt that was previously used to hold the valvebody together. The bolt is longer to compensate for the thickness of the bracket, and still provide complete thread engagement. This bracket retains the filter from coming out due to line pressure and/or wear of the rubber o-ring on the small filter. My solenoid was broken due to the added pressure of my old filter pressing against the solenoid itself. This, in addition to the normal loads that the solenoid is subjected to under use, probably causes the failure after a period of time.

I have the TSB on this retrofit if you are interested. The diagram which shows the locations of the check balls, once you seperate the valvebody, is not very clear - but if you closely examine the diagrams, you shouldn't have a problem. Just be clean, and meticulous.

I take it you read my previous post, "Tranmission Shift Solenoids A & B", http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3393.

Good luck :)

PS I used about 6 or 7 quarts of ATF to get back to the Full/Hot mark...

...and here is some info from the TSB:

"During the 1996 Model Year, transaxle Julian date 047, a new 1-2, 2-3 shift solenoid assembly, and a pressure control solenoid valve fluid filter retainer, were implemented on the 4T80-E transaxle.

All transaxles with a Julian date prior to 1996, 047 must be serviced with a service kit - 1-2/2-3 shift solenoid valves, which is available at GMSPO. This kit, P/N 24211355, contains the 1-2, 2-3 shift solenoid valves, the pressure control solenoid valve filter, the pressure control solenoid valve fluid filter retainer and the bolt to hold the retainer to the lower control valve body. All components in this kit must be used when servicing these transaxles.

1996 transaxles with a Julian date after 047, and 1997 through 1998 transaxles, should be serviced with individual components"
 

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Discussion Starter #4
R&D Guy said:
Hi Rick,

The bracket goes on top of the valve body, once you remove it from the transmission. The bolt that come with it REPLACES the bolt that was previously used to hold the valvebody together. The bolt is longer to compensate for the thickness of the bracket, and still provide complete thread engagement. This bracket retains the filter from coming out due to line pressure and/or wear of the rubber o-ring on the small filter. My solenoid was broken due to the added pressure of my old filter pressing against the solenoid itself. This, in addition to the normal loads that the solenoid is subjected to under use, probably causes the failure after a period of time.

I have the TSB on this retrofit if you are interested. The diagram which shows the locations of the check balls, once you seperate the valvebody, is not very clear - but if you closely examine the diagrams, you shouldn't have a problem. Just be clean, and meticulous.

I take it you read my previous post, "Tranmission Shift Solenoids A & B", http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3393.

Good luck :)

PS I used about 6 or 7 quarts of ATF to get back to the Full/Hot mark...

...and here is some info from the TSB:

"During the 1996 Model Year, transaxle Julian date 047, a new 1-2, 2-3 shift solenoid assembly, and a pressure control solenoid valve fluid filter retainer, were implemented on the 4T80-E transaxle.

All transaxles with a Julian date prior to 1996, 047 must be serviced with a service kit - 1-2/2-3 shift solenoid valves, which is available at GMSPO. This kit, P/N 24211355, contains the 1-2, 2-3 shift solenoid valves, the pressure control solenoid valve filter, the pressure control solenoid valve fluid filter retainer and the bolt to hold the retainer to the lower control valve body. All components in this kit must be used when servicing these transaxles.

1996 transaxles with a Julian date after 047, and 1997 through 1998 transaxles, should be serviced with individual components"

Thanks for the reply, I diagram of the check balls would be GREATLY appreciated, thats the thing that has had me concerned, was worried about messing them up and not knowing there location.

So I need to g back to caddy before I take this on...thanks again saved me from jumping into it without everything I need.

Will post the outcome..hopefully this is the problem...nice and cheap compared to the alternative fix. Wont be able to be done for awhile as I go in for kidney removal surgery tommorow.

Thanks again.
 

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I have a '94 Eldo and am experiencing similar trouble (P029), would also love the pics (willing to email them?). Also experiencing a P076 (Transmission Pressuse Solenoid) as well but found little in the way of repair info here. Does anyone have any resources on a P076 do-it-yourself repair? How does Hanes rate for this kind of job?

Would greatly appreciate any info.
 

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Hi,
I just made the replacement of the Pressure Solenoid.
Be aware that it´s not that easy. You have to remove the tranny, open the side pan and just replace the solenoid.
GM states 11,8 hours for that job and you can call yourself lucky if you can manage it in that time.

The easiest way is to only remove the tranny (not as stated by haynes that you have to remove engine AND tranny together - Thats nearly impossible).
There´s special tool by gm to hold the engine in place (we took just 3 wooden bars and a chain to keep the engine in). Important! Raise the engine about 1 inch higher at the left side (tranny side) than at the right side.
This will make it easier to overcome the starter.

Generally this isn´t a job for DIY.
On the other hand it might just be an electrical problem in your harness.
To check this out look at: http://www.v8mr2.com/reference.asp

Thats a great library about northstar and REALLY GREAT TESTING PROCEDURES!!!

Hopefully you are lucky and don´t have to swap the tranny out... :)

kindest regards from austria

Michael
 

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Are you sure its the Valve body is not accessable with the trans left in the vehicle. Seems like with my 4t60 you can remove the cv joints, engine mounts, trans mounts, splash guards and raise the engine/trans 2-3 inches on the trans side and be able to take off the lower trans side case bolts. I guess you would have to use petroleum jelly (trans assembly lube) in order for the check balls to stay in the right place... If your lower trans side case bolts are still not accessable then I guess you would have to split the cradle in half and remove it... Does the northstar series caddies have a cradle which splits in two???

Id like your input, since I'll probably buy a caddy with this problem some day.

Thanks,
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I wouldnt mess with a Haynes I think I still have alot of the info on doing that change...post your e-mail or e-mail me @ [email protected](dot)net and I will send what I have...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a 93 STS I did this one and DID NOT have to remove the tranny, was a very staightforward job. The trickest part is the checkballs...but if you have the 4t80e which according to http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/resources/pdf/TransmissionPdf/Transmission Application Chart.pdf 93 to 01 Eldorados have it...

the kit for the solenoids should run around 50.00 then get new filters and fluid you should get away with under 130.00...

I would say you could do all of it in a couple hours....
 

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Maybe it is just my confusion but these posts refer to two different problems and procedures.

To clearify, the trans shift solenoids are in the lower pan and can be replaced relatively easily by removing the lower pan and valve body. The trans stays in the car and nothing other than removing the trans lower pan is required for access.

The pressure control solenoid (or "force motor" as it is refered to in some manuals and literature) is inside the side cover of the trans.... Conventional wisdom says to drop the trans to access the side cover for replacement of the pressure control solenoid but it is possible to do the job with the trans in the car with some manipulating of the engine/trans position. See the attached link for details.... http://caddyinfo.netgetgoing.com/howto/pc0717.htm This excellent how-to covers the more indepth replacement of the input speed sensor in the trans but the basic procedure is the same and you will encounter the pressure control solenoid long before you dig into the trans to find the speed sensor.

The 4T80E has two valve bodies. One is in the lower pan and one is in the side cover so be careful referring to the "valve body" on the 4T80E as there is more than one.

BTW....if you have lowered the bottom pan for the shift solenoid access or just to change the fluid be sure and remember to remove the small, hidden drain plug for the side cover so as to remove as much fluid as is possible. The drain plug is hidden inside the lower pan and looks like a simple bolt under the side cover area. Just remove it and more fluid will drain. The 4T80E operates as a dry sump type of system where the scavenge pump moves the oil draining down from the lower pan to the side cover for storage and pickup by the main line pressure pump. You can drain the fluid stored in the side cover by removing the hidden drain plug with the bottom pan off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Part of the cinfusion may have been on me as I failed to see the Pressure Solenoid issue and was speaking in regards to only the shift solenoids...

Whoever it was with the problem listen to bbob...he is the man.....
 
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