[Rivelite]

Good Morning,

I have been having a weird electrical bugs the past few weeks. I noticed one day that my remote was not unlocking the doors. I unlocked it with the key and the truck was completely dead. No lights, no crank, absolutely dead. I did all normal cursing and pleading with it and tried to move the steering wheel and jiggle the key but nada. Then I noticed something weird, with the key in and turned, I was able to hit the brake and then the truck made some mechanical noise and started. Today I noticed the same deal when I tried to unlock it. I again had to open the door with the key and went to start it and again, it was dead. This time with the key out, I hit the brake (which did not start it like last time) but was able to move through all the gears. When I shifted it thru all the gears, I then again heard that same mechanical whirring and the lights came on. I was able to put it in park put the key in and it started like normal. I am pretty concerned with being able to sit in the truck and just shit it from park to any gear with no with no key for safety reasons. Since my drive way it slightly sloped, I always us the emergency brake but still....

The alternator went out a few weeks ago and I had that replaced under my extended warranty. The starter was also starting to miss, so that too was replaced. The battery is a Duralast that was replaced 2 years ago. I did notice that in the last few weeks my radio being reset in the morning so obviously the truck was disconnecting power for whatever reason, but it always started. Last thing I have noticed is the battery gauge is fluctuating between 12 and 13.5ish volts at idle.

Just wondering has anyone experienced the same issues here? I am trying to research as I am sure there is some sort of relay/module/security that is malfunctioning because the battery is not being discharged as it seems more being cut off.

Thanks

 

[tokuzumi]

You mention the battery is only 2 years old. Do you know it's still good and being charged properly? Batteries with low voltage can cause all kinds of issues due to low voltage.

I'd also check to make sure you had the correct alternator amperage installed. The 2002-2004 models had a 145 Amp alternator.

But this is most likely a ground issue. With you living in the rust belt, there's definitely some salt and green death in an electrical connector somewhere. I'd start with the battery and alternator are good, and make sure all connections between the starter, alternator, and battery are in good shape. Then move on to the ignition circuit.

edit: this could also be the pass lock, or whatever the security system is called. But I would think you would get all of your interior lights, and the security light would just remain solid in the dash.

 

[Rivelite]

Good call on the grounds. I lifted the hood when I got home and saw that the body to hood ground strap was hanging there, completely worn. I replaced that one and wiggled the rest and can see that there is are serious play on the that bolts to the fire wall as well. I am not sure where that one goes down to, maybe the frame or the transmission but unfortunately I wont get the chance to work on it as time is a premium for me lately. I will be bringing it to my mechanic and hope they are easy to replace. It did not start again today so I wiggled the ground on the firewall and then the one on the left of the engine in the harness and it started right up.

 

[Rivelite]

Got a call back from the shop today. The culprit is the positive battery cable. At some point there is more resistance or the current is not flowing properly causing these issues. Because I have an extended warranty that covers OEM parts (for covered repairs and this is not covered), he called Cadillac and asked for the part. When they quoted him 235.00 he called me back as asked if I wanted to go aftermarket to which I said absolutely. The mighty Amazon is overnighting him an AC Delco cable for 80 bucks and FOR 1 hour of labor, I will be on my way.