[craigwojo]

New here.
I am not a gear head but have some knowledge with the mechanics of a automobile.

I've noticed a un-smoothness with the front end of my 97 STS. un-smoothness. Sorta sounds like something is loose in the front suspension. Rides great on the highway.
Also - when taking off from a stop light or stop sign there is a grinding sound (looseness sound) coming from the front and goes away when I get to 2nd gear. I really don't believe it's the transmission - no service statement. And also the gear changing is almost unnoticeable.
THE SERVICE STABILITY SYSTEM (EXP 54) AND ABS LIGHT AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT IS LIT ON THE DASH.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you and God bless,
Craig

 

[Submariner409]

Start by checking the front center motor mount for integrity - and, if your car has dogbone torque struts on the top engine sides, check those bushings, too.

Otherwise: wheel hubs, CV joints, stabilizer bar bushings, wheel speed sensors, strut electrical connectors.

Pull your Diagnostic Trouble Codes from the car's built-in system. Use the sticky post ^^^ "How to pull codes". Get them all, note whether each is Current or History, write it all down, return to the sticky and use the proper link to get to the Master Index of code definitions. Write it all down, come back and post here.

 

[craigwojo]

There was alot of history "B" codes but only one current. TCS C1232. Most of the "B" were with the electric seats, others were nothing to do with stability and such.

Just a note: Could the TCS (Traction Control Sensor) cause the noise when I take off from a stop? (Not saying the sensor making the noise but maybe the traction control trying to disengage? Also I noticed when I first got the car ( just over a year ago) that when the Traction disengaged or sometime engage it would make a quite loud clunk. As if it was stuck and it released forcefully.

Any thoughts?

Thank you and God bless,
Craig

 

[RippyPartsDept]

return to the sticky and use the proper link to get to the Master Index of code definitions. Write it all down, come back and post here.

you forgot this crucial step...

nobody knows all the DTCs by heart

...

well some people might... but most people don't

 

[Jim 99 eldo]

Let's keep up on this I have the same issue take off from a light dash will light up and I feel the same grinding as explaned above. I have checked the movement of the engine and I do not believe it is a mount the motor just does not move that much even when power braking in drive.

 

[craigwojo]

Hopefully someone can figure out what the noise is. Runs great and smooth after about 15-20 mph.

 

[JimD]

C1232 - Left Front Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted

You could start by inspecting the wire harness and connector at the LF hub. Possibly the noise you are hearing is the traction control system applying hydraulic pressure to the RF wheel because traction control is detecting a difference between the speed of the drive wheels.

If there is no electrical problem found in the LF wiring, check for continuity of the wheel speed sensor coil in the LF hub. Wheel speed sensors can and do fail; the fix is to replace the LF hub.

 

[craigwojo]

JimD,
Wouldn't the noise still be there after 15-20mph? If I take off nice and slow, the sound and vibration are not there. I am confused.
The dealer wants to charge me almost $100 just to let me know what is wrong.

 

[JimD]

JimD,
Wouldn't the noise still be there after 15-20mph? If I take off nice and slow, the sound and vibration are not there.

The noise you are hearing "could be" a hub bearing that needs to warm up to shut up. I can not tell you for 100% certainty from this distance.

But there is NO QUESTION about your C1232.

Have you completed the electrical tests noted in post #7?

The dealer wants to charge me almost $100 just to let me know what is wrong.

Your choice. DIY or hire someone to tell you (something).

 

[curtc]

If you are feeling this when taking off fast it is almost certainly the TCS engaging on the LF wheel, the sensor is obviously malfunctioning. Since you don't feel it when taking off slowly the sensor is not reading a slip at that slow of a take off rate, and is working correctly at that point. I would replace the wheel hub if it were my car for starters. That is a fairly easy DIY project for a Sunday afternoon. Should be able to get a quality hub from Rockauto.com for a decent price. A dealership will probably charge in the area of $300-450 for this repair depending on labor rates. I've done a bunch of these and it is not difficult at all, that is until you get to the point of actually removing the old hub, that can be fun sometimes if it is really seized on there.

 

[johnny kannapo]

If the bearing is loose enough to foul up the sensor then the rotor can tilt in due to bearing the play. After the brakes are released the rotor will drag the pads briefly until the movement spreads the pads apart enough for clearence. This could also account for noise.

 

[N*Caddy]

The grinding noise you hear is the EBTCM motor trying to T/C the "slipping" wheel. So the EBTCM receives a bad signal from the wheel bearing assembly (the wheel speed sensor is incorporated in the wheel bearing). The bad signal tells "hey this wheel is slipping" so the EBTCM apply brakes, that's when you hear the motor making noise, the noise does sounds like a grinding noise. The EBTCM is no fool and does realizes that something is wrong with the sensors as even after applying brakes the wheel still doesn't seem to be slowing down so it will enter in "safe" mode. This means it will disable both ABS and T/C, turn the light on the dash and post the code. This happens in the first seconds after take off from a stop hence you hear the noise before you get to 10MPH-15MPH. You also only hear the noise once, after the lights are on (i.e. ABS&T/C is disabled) it will stop until the next ignition cycle.
So in this situation you don't need to pay the dealer $100 to tell you the wheel bearing needs to be changed, you already know.

 

[craigwojo]

Hate to be a pest but when I turn off the traction control from the button in the glove box it still does the engaging noise and slight vibration. Does it bypass the sensor or ignore the off command from the button?

Taking off the bearing assembly, do you need a wheel puller?

Thank you and God bless,
Craig

 

[N*Caddy]

No, that won't bypass anything, is both T/C and ABS, same sensor(s) same module (EBTCM), just change the wheel bearing, no way around.

 

[ben.gators]

Hate to be a pest but when I turn off the traction control from the button in the glove box it still does the engaging noise and slight vibration. Does it bypass the sensor or ignore the off command from the button?

Taking off the bearing assembly, do you need a wheel puller?

Thank you and God bless,
Craig

Based on reported experiences in this forum it depends! Where are you located? In dry places like Arizona there is a very good chance that you can simply grab and pull it out by hand it will come off. But rust and corrosion always make the life hard in northern states.... FSM suggests puller, but I know people that prefer hammering to remove an stuck hub bearing.

 

[curtc]

I live in southern MN and I've had some bearings that have come right out with one good wack. However, I have had more than a few require the puller as they can be EXTREMELY seized.

 

[ericissaved]

Hey you seem to know what you're talking about I was just curious if you can give me some information on my 99 Cadillac Eldorado
I have ABS and traction control light on and my stability system needs servicing.
Is this all in relation to one problem?
I don't show any signs of problems except my rear end is sagging really low.
Also I pulled an ABS code for my left rear sensor being malfunctioned... What do u suggest?
And is it difficult for me to repair that sensor myself?

 

[MoistCabbage]

:welcome:

This thread is over 2 years old. In the future, feel free to start your own instead of tacking your question onto an old thread (or hijacking).

Is the code for a wheel speed sensor? If so, that will cause your ABS/TCS/stability control problems. Your sagging rear is a separate problem, but one thing at a time.

 

[Najeŕamaria]

Please can you help me to find whats wrong with my 3.6L 2005 sts cadillac that i love so much im the 2nd owner and it almost has 145,000 miles on it n it need a pwater pump in it so i did replace it n then everything was great until i drove it like 2 miles out of town the stylibity sytem came on n abs then it said the power was gana shut down it started to smell like if something was burning so no power at all. I put the cables on and it wont start lights come on but it wont crank up plz help

 

[basscatt]

Please can you help me to find whats wrong with my 3.6L 2005 sts cadillac that i love so much im the 2nd owner and it almost has 145,000 miles on it n it need a pwater pump in it so i did replace it n then everything was great until i drove it like 2 miles out of town the stylibity sytem came on n abs then it said the power was gana shut down it started to smell like if something was burning so no power at all. I put the cables on and it wont start lights come on but it wont crank up plz help

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this is the SEVILLE forum -
you'd get better information in the STS forum -