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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 CTS with service brake assist, service stabilitrak, and service traction control in the DIC. ABS and TC lights are on, but NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is on.

I have an OBD2 sensor reader, and it’s not throwing any codes. The car has seemed to be riding “loose” as I’ve gotten into mountains and into rain. Even on straight flat roads, the traction lacks subtly. My car is just under 90k, new brakes on all wheels in last 6 months. I only heard MINOR grinding that disappeared after I got brakes changed.

I have appt to take it to dealer in a week but I honestly told myself not even 2 mins before the lights and warning came on that I was gonna trade in my car. She has done nothing but give me problems. 2 fuel injectors failed in January flooding my engine and oil with fuel. Middle fan resister broke overheating engine, and now this.

I noticed there was something wrong the first few times that I drove in torrential rains in Florida and North Carolina. I also noticed that the RPMs jump especially when climbing hills. It’s like the wheels don’t have enough traction or not going the same speed that the engine thinks, so the transmission doesn’t know when to shift gears.

why isn’t there any codes being thrown? I know the reader works. I’ve used it on other cars. What could this be? Wheel speed sensor makes most sense, I don’t think I feel wobbles from a bad wheel bearing.
 

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I have a 2011 CTS with service brake assist, service stabilitrak, and service traction control in the DIC. ABS and TC lights are on, but NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is on.

I have an OBD2 sensor reader, and it’s not throwing any codes. The car has seemed to be riding “loose” as I’ve gotten into mountains and into rain. Even on straight flat roads, the traction lacks subtly. My car is just under 90k, new brakes on all wheels in last 6 months. I only heard MINOR grinding that disappeared after I got brakes changed.

I have appt to take it to dealer in a week but I honestly told myself not even 2 mins before the lights and warning came on that I was gonna trade in my car. She has done nothing but give me problems. 2 fuel injectors failed in January flooding my engine and oil with fuel. Middle fan resister broke overheating engine, and now this.

I noticed there was something wrong the first few times that I drove in torrential rains in Florida and North Carolina. I also noticed that the RPMs jump especially when climbing hills. It’s like the wheels don’t have enough traction or not going the same speed that the engine thinks, so the transmission doesn’t know when to shift gears.

why isn’t there any codes being thrown? I know the reader works. I’ve used it on other cars. What could this be? Wheel speed sensor makes most sense, I don’t think I feel wobbles from a bad wheel bearing.
Your code reader may not be the type that recognizes ABS-type codes; basic scanners only read 'engine' codes.
Sounds like a failing hub assembly, but you need to get the codes read to determine where & what the exact cause is.

Most parts stores have 'advanced' readers that you can use for free.
 

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2011 CTS4 Coupe, 2014 ELR, 2018 XT5 AWD
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I have a 2011 CTS with service brake assist, service stabilitrak, and service traction control in the DIC. ABS and TC lights are on, but NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is on.

I have an OBD2 sensor reader, and it’s not throwing any codes. The car has seemed to be riding “loose” as I’ve gotten into mountains and into rain. Even on straight flat roads, the traction lacks subtly. My car is just under 90k, new brakes on all wheels in last 6 months. I only heard MINOR grinding that disappeared after I got brakes changed.

I have appt to take it to dealer in a week but I honestly told myself not even 2 mins before the lights and warning came on that I was gonna trade in my car. She has done nothing but give me problems. 2 fuel injectors failed in January flooding my engine and oil with fuel. Middle fan resister broke overheating engine, and now this.

I noticed there was something wrong the first few times that I drove in torrential rains in Florida and North Carolina. I also noticed that the RPMs jump especially when climbing hills. It’s like the wheels don’t have enough traction or not going the same speed that the engine thinks, so the transmission doesn’t know when to shift gears.

why isn’t there any codes being thrown? I know the reader works. I’ve used it on other cars. What could this be? Wheel speed sensor makes most sense, I don’t think I feel wobbles from a bad wheel
Most cheap scan tools only read powertrain codes.
The ABS system will not set powertrain codes. That means it will not turn on the check engine light. You will need a better scan tool that is capable of reading ABS codes.
As long as the red brake light is not on your vehicle is safe to drive. With the ABS and TC lights on the ABS brakes and traction control will not work. You should not drive the car if the red brake light is on.
A very common cause for your problem is a failed wheel speed sensor. They are built into the wheel bearings so to replace the sensor you have to replace the wheel bearing.
The best way to know for sure is to read the ABS codes.
 

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The sensor is separate from the hub assembly in the CTS and they don't fail that frequently. However, the sensor "reads" the magnetic tone ring on the back side of the hub assembly and that tone ring will crack with age and parts of it may even be missing. When that happens, you will get a C004x code (the number in that "x" field will tell you which is the problematic wheel) as the control module needs to read all wheels' speed in order for ABS etc. to work. As the two others have said, cheap scanners read only P codes (those related to emissions and the functions of the engine) and do not read "C" codes (ABS etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you, so I don’t have a red brake light on, I’ll go to an autozone and see what they say…. is it possible to wipe the lights and warning from my DIC so that I can trade in my car without it appearing to have a major problem? I imagine they’d come back on eventually.

That sounds shady and my conscience wouldn’t let me do that. I’ve sunk so much into this car and I feel like the seller knew I was getting a bad deal. I imagine the dealer would check the car over after trading out and they always make money anyway. I wouldn’t ever sell privately without disclosing problems cuz I’m too honest. But I’m really tired of being screwed for being a nice person.
 

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The ABS/TC lights will not go out until you remedy the cause.
 

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Your current problem is relatively minor, unless you have other reasons to sell the car. Other maintenance will come due as it would for any car with that mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your current problem is relatively minor, unless you have other reasons to sell the car. Other maintenance will come due as it would for any car with that mileage.
3 weeks ago the middle resister fan broke. $400 and in January 2 fuel injectors failed. Flooded my engine and oil with fuel. $1000. Had to zip tie the plastic piece that protects the underbelly to keep it from falling off. They sold me the car without telling me the brakes were practically down to metal, $600. tbh I’ve never been a worse driver than I have in that spaceship, and I’ve driven since I was 13, across the country by myself often. I’ve hit at least 5 curbs and potholes are everywhere.

I’ve had two cars for 20 years with my last one a Toyota that made it to 250k. I’m not used to expensive cars being so crappy so soon. I’ve only had this for a year…. nothing but a money pit.
 

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I’m unfamiliar with the area. Do you suggest a tire shop or something similar to autozone but not autozone?
My experience with Autozone is they are centered on profit than helping you resolve a problem. O'Reilly, Advance, even WalMart would be a better choice. Even better, a local mom & pop shop.
 

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3 weeks ago the middle resister fan broke. $400 and in January 2 fuel injectors failed. Flooded my engine and oil with fuel. $1000. Had to zip tie the plastic piece that protects the underbelly to keep it from falling off. They sold me the car without telling me the brakes were practically down to metal, $600. tbh I’ve never been a worse driver than I have in that spaceship, and I’ve driven since I was 13, across the country by myself often. I’ve hit at least 5 curbs and potholes are everywhere.

I’ve had two cars for 20 years with my last one a Toyota that made it to 250k. I’m not used to expensive cars being so crappy so soon. I’ve only had this for a year…. nothing but a money pit.
Luxury cars like your CTS typically need more care and feeding than your previous Toyota.

That being said, the things you've listed are mostly maintenance items that are common on any motor vehicle.
 

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a problem with erasing codes in order to sell is that a buyer may have a more sophisticated OBD reader (or more) and can tell there are problems and those warnings were just shut off/erased...

my sister was trying to sell her worn out car back to the dealership and her friend offered to erase all the codes so she could sell...I told her if that's what you want to do but as soon as the dealership plugs in to the OBD port they are going to see all the warnings that were on before you erased them by running a new scan...

good luck with your issue but I'd bet it is going to be that sensor/hub ring issue mentioned by everyone above...not a big ticket fix to get back up and running...good luck with your choice

Bill
 

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OP: I am sorry for your experiences. It sounds like you could have benefitted from an independent mechanic's inspection before you bought. I hope that the car is at least cosmetically good and that the engine is solid.

My '10 is at 150k+ miles and has had a fraction of your issues. Yes, I've replaced all four wheel bearings and shocks all around but those are not lifetime components. I haven't had fuel injectors fail and the aero shield under my car is long gone (it's a common but shady practice at dealerships to rotozip or remove them altogether when they work on cars) and my fan resistor is original (it's also a cheap part and easily replaced). Almost everything else I have done is either in the category of maintenance, replacing parts (like shocks and O2 sensors) that have gone way beyond their expected lifespan, or work that maintains the vehicle's performance.

Most older Toyotas were not really made to be precision performance vehicles but rather to be durable appliances. Stamped steel suspension components vs what you will find in your Caddy is a great example. The downside? No matter what work you do, it will never drive like a luxury performance vehicle. BMWs, Mercedes, Cadillacs, Audis, etc can all give you a long long life but you have to stay on top of things once they hit 10 years and 150k miles otherwise the car will drive nowhere near as well as it did when new. The upside? If you do stay on top of things, you have a 10 year old vehicle that can perform way better than that Toyota did when it was new.

A lot of ten year old luxury cars are cheap on the used market and there's a reason for that: they haven't been maintained and they ride like garbage. Owners decide they're not going to keep the cars and they let things go or they're just not attentive people. You can easily spend $3-5k (garage prices) if you address everything the previous owner didn't and bring the car close to its intended state.
 

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Problem is a generation ago good mechanics got into computers - no heavy lifting, is clean, and air conditioned. Then cars got into computers and things got worse.

As mentioned there are OBD-II scanners and then there are GOOD OBD-II scanners. Good ones can handle ABS and SRS issues. Really good ones can reprogram a key. These start as a Benjamin. Many earlier threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OP: I am sorry for your experiences. It sounds like you could have benefitted from an independent mechanic's inspection before you bought. I hope that the car is at least cosmetically good and that the engine is solid.

My '10 is at 150k+ miles and has had a fraction of your issues. Yes, I've replaced all four wheel bearings and shocks all around but those are not lifetime components. I haven't had fuel injectors fail and the aero shield under my car is long gone (it's a common but shady practice at dealerships to rotozip or remove them altogether when they work on cars) and my fan resistor is original (it's also a cheap part and easily replaced). Almost everything else I have done is either in the category of maintenance, replacing parts (like shocks and O2 sensors) that have gone way beyond their expected lifespan, or work that maintains the vehicle's performance.

Most older Toyotas were not really made to be precision performance vehicles but rather to be durable appliances. Stamped steel suspension components vs what you will find in your Caddy is a great example. The downside? No matter what work you do, it will never drive like a luxury performance vehicle. BMWs, Mercedes, Cadillacs, Audis, etc can all give you a long long life but you have to stay on top of things once they hit 10 years and 150k miles otherwise the car will drive nowhere near as well as it did when new. The upside? If you do stay on top of things, you have a 10 year old vehicle that can perform way better than that Toyota did when it was new.

A lot of ten year old luxury cars are cheap on the used market and there's a reason for that: they haven't been maintained and they ride like garbage. Owners decide they're not going to keep the cars and they let things go or they're just not attentive people. You can easily spend $3-5k (garage prices) if you address everything the previous owner didn't and bring the car close to its intended state.
Thank you for that reply. I had a “mechanic” friend with me but I later learned he was less than trustworthy, which is disappointing considering our 25 year friendship.

I have decided to sell to a Cadillac dealer due to the sellers market. There had been an accident that wasn’t disclosed (rear end) but I don’t know how severe.

Once I got alone with the car last year, I knew there was something wrong with it.

A lot of C codes popped up on the scan the other day. I hear random electrical clicky noises (new) from the dash, and my overall feeling is even if I fix all the wheel bearings, there will be more and more wrong with it that i don’t have the money for.

The body is beautiful. So is the interior. It’s like new. But the carbon build up in the engine was pretty bad, and with the fuel injectors flooding the engine in January, I feel there are more injuries I may be unaware of.

While I’m not a mechanic, my intuition is good. I suspected my brothers 2 year old cat had heart failure before a vet did. I had to demand specific blood tests and x rays to get the vet to tell me what I already told her. He died of a heart attack about a month or two later. Authority figures dont often listen to me even tho I end up being right.

I know a cat isn’t a car, just displaying the range of things I’ve had gut feelings about.

The dealer is giving me $9k. Hopefully they fix all things and the new buyer gets a good car. But this one feels like the problems will be endless. I’ve already spent $3k, and would prolly be $5k by the time this repair is over.

This car feels like every toxic boyfriend I’ve ever had. Real pretty but leaves me stranded all the time, draining my time and value.

Its a terrible time to buy a car, so im just going to give this break up time to settle before I shop for a new boyfriend 😂

Now I just need to find a ride home… from Asheville to South Dakota.
 

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Thank you for that reply. I had a “mechanic” friend with me but I later learned he was less than trustworthy, which is disappointing considering our 25 year friendship.

I have decided to sell to a Cadillac dealer due to the sellers market. There had been an accident that wasn’t disclosed (rear end) but I don’t know how severe.

Once I got alone with the car last year, I knew there was something wrong with it.

A lot of C codes popped up on the scan the other day. I hear random electrical clicky noises (new) from the dash, and my overall feeling is even if I fix all the wheel bearings, there will be more and more wrong with it that i don’t have the money for.

The body is beautiful. So is the interior. It’s like new. But the carbon build up in the engine was pretty bad, and with the fuel injectors flooding the engine in January, I feel there are more injuries I may be unaware of.

While I’m not a mechanic, my intuition is good. I suspected my brothers 2 year old cat had heart failure before a vet did. I had to demand specific blood tests and x rays to get the vet to tell me what I already told her. He died of a heart attack about a month or two later. Authority figures dont often listen to me even tho I end up being right.

I know a cat isn’t a car, just displaying the range of things I’ve had gut feelings about.

The dealer is giving me $9k. Hopefully they fix all things and the new buyer gets a good car. But this one feels like the problems will be endless. I’ve already spent $3k, and would prolly be $5k by the time this repair is over.

This car feels like every toxic boyfriend I’ve ever had. Real pretty but leaves me stranded all the time, draining my time and value.

Its a terrible time to buy a car, so im just going to give this break up time to settle before I shop for a new boyfriend 😂

Now I just need to find a ride home… from Asheville to South Dakota.
I suspect that boyfriends will always have more issues than any car that you will ever have. Like people, sometimes cars have idiosyncrasies that we just have to learn to embrace or ignore and like people, sometimes we wake up and those idiosyncrasies that we've accepted all along suddenly are giant irritants.

You have put almost as much into the car as I have put into mine since I bought my '10 new over eleven years ago. I think you're doing the right thing to cut your losses and move on - a sign of a good, decisive mind. Good luck on your journey(s).
 

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Agreed.
It appears as if you are making the best choice for your individual situation.

Safe travels-
 
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