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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I have a 96 Cadillac Deville and after the recent increase in gas prices I (like an idiot) put in cheap 96 regular gas in my tank. I'm now seeing the service emissions system warning light. Its been a over a year since I had a tune up (plugs and wires). Should I start with a tune up before get worked up about my catalyic converter going bad. What plugs and wires would you guess recommend? Should I get a fuel system flush?

Please help
 

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put high octane gas into it... and some octane boost. after 50 miles or so you should be fine. one year from tune up is not too bad unless you drove like 50,000 miles :) and dont worry about your cat goin bad over that... if it goes that easily, you had more probs then you think
 

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welcome aboard 96caddman!
I am not sure the regular gas and the service emission light is related.....could be but don't think so.

Pull the DTC codes off your dash and we'll help you figure out what exactly needs attention.

As for another tune-up, 1 year is an extremely short tune-up interval if you did it right.......it should be good for almost 100K miles...

There seems to be a consensus that using OEM plugs and wires are the best way to go (AC DELCO).

A typical tune-up at around 100K miles would include new plugs/wires/oil change/coolant change/maybe a fuel filter (although I'm not sold on it)

Also, do a search on the forum using the search button up there, you'll find lots of info about most problems like this. Definitely would get you in the right direction.

Good luck!
I hope its a real simple fix.....
 

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:welcome:The lower octane is not the problem. I ran 87 octane in my '97 Deville for 3 years with no ill effects. The Northstar has a very effective knock sensor and will handle 87 octane and you won't even know the difference. The light and the lower octane gas is just a coinsidence.

If you put OEM plugs and wires in on the last tune up, leave 'em along. No need to waste money on a fuel system flush.

Follow Powerglides advice and start by pulling the codes (DTC's). It is likely something simple like an EGR valve or TB that need to be cleaned. Perhaps a bad or slow to respond O2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Should I do a GM Driving Cycle before I read the DTC codes or should I have the diagnostic test running while I'm doing my drive cycle. I did drive a little yesterday and run the codes. I had no codes for (pcm, ipc, acm, sdm, tcs, rss, pzm, irc). I did show the following history (PC0717, PC1406, RF2560). Are these the actual codes and if so what do they mean?
 

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No need. Just pull the codes like you did.
pc0717 etc are real codes
they can be translated here:

"""To check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes stored in the computer, turn the ignition on, then hold down the OFF and WARMER (for digital dash) or OFF and passenger-WARMER buttons (for analog dash) or OFF and "Info ^" buttons (if you have temperature dials) until all of the dash lights come on. The digital display will then show any codes stored. Be prepared to write them down. When it's done, you will probably see "PCM?" At that point, press the OFF button 3 or 4 times until the dash goes back to normal, or just turn off the ignition.

If you've checked for codes and found some, this is what you need to look up what they mean:


If your car is a 1996 model or newer, go here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html


If your car is a 1995 or older, go here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd1.html


Codes for 1996 and newer cars (OBD-II) are usually a single letter followed by 4 numbers. So, for example, P0300 or U1064 or P1289, etc. 1996 model year cars seem to have 2 letters and 4 numbers. So, for example, on my 1996 Seville SLS, the codes look like PC0300 or IP1064 or RS0038. I haven't figured out the exact trick for translating 1996 codes into the single letter format yet, and I'll update this information if I do find it.

Codes for 1995 and older cars (OBD-I) are usually a single letter followed by 3 numbers. So, for example, P021 or E131 or B339.


Once you have looked up what the codes mean using the web sites listed above, you may be able to figure out exactly what needs to be done by the definition of the code. If you have any questions on what it means or how to fix it, come back here and post the code and the definition. More than likely, someone will be able to tell you exactly what needs to be done. We will do our best to help.


Good luck!
__________________
Cheers!

Michael Cowden""


Thanks to Mike!
 

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I looked some up for you:

RF2560 is a Remote Keyless Entry Validation fault
P0717 - Input Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input
P1406 - EGR Valve Pintle Position Circuit

Someone will hopefully post what this all means
 

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Discussion Starter #8
P1406 :EGR valve pintle position circuit (maybe caused by carbon buildup in the EGR valve. May have caused the pintle position to become stuck or not lowered all the way. Should have the EGR valve removed and clean the pintle seat area of the valve and the corresponding passageway in the engine to see if this helps before I replace the EGR valve)

P0717: Input Speed Sensor Circuit Low input (Transmission related) dang I just had work done to my shift solenoids. I hope the above problem could resolve this one.

R2560: Not too much concerned about this error right now.


Any suggestions before I take my caddy to a mechanic. The darndest thing about this situation is that I just moved to this state really don't know any trustworthy mechanics to avoid going to the dealership, so any before hand advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
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