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2001 Deville (Base)
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here's a dumb question, my belt was replaced yesterday, it had to be at least 9 years old and looked tired and cracked. If that belt snaps while in motion or just snaps in general....what happens?
 

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2001 Seville STS, 1990 Seville (RIP), 1972 Sedan Deville
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26,323 Posts
4 year old thread.

If the main accessory drive belt snaps on a Northstar, you lose power steering, A/C, and the alternator, the car will shut down once the battery gets low enough.

You also have a water pump drive belt/tensioner on the opposite end of the engine. When was that last replaced?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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72,188 Posts
You might want to read the 3 sticky posts in Engines, Northstar - the ones concerning cooling system operation, fan operation, and temp gauge damping. Also, study articles of interest way up ^^^ in the top black bar - Cadillac Technical Archive.

Posts moved to a new thread - the dead thread is back in history.

And the new thread has been moved from Seville to Deville ..........
 

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2001 Deville (Base)
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. However, I searched all three stickies and couldn't find what you were talking about. Maybe someone could give me a simple cut and dry answer to my concerns. Thanks again.

My only concern is the temp sometimes goes a bar or two above center, then it drops back to center after a couple of minutes with the A/C on. I'm trying to figure out why it's doing that. The last time I was getting extra heat, they said my radiator was gunked up. So, I replaced it. Perhaps I need a radiator flush or maybe, it's acting normal due to the fact it goes back to center (even while driving with the A/C on). I have no codes. Other than the temp going up a bar or two, then levels off...has me a little concerned. What do you think?

What happened to my original post? Thankfully I had it saved. So, here it is again, my reply to moistcabbage


Thanks for the response. I also had the water pump and drive belt replaced along with thermostat and gasket. Plus, I had a new compressor, map sensor and mass air flow sensor replaced. A new transmission was put in about 2 years ago. I've had the radiator replaced as well about 14 months ago.

Before the most recent repairs, I'd stall while in motion and could not restart for at least 10-20 minutes. It stalled at the toll plaza on the Jersey side of the lincoln tunnel. I was not going to leave it in Jersey. So, when I finally got it started I risked it, put my hazards on and went through the tunnel (I was scared). When I got it on the west side highway, it stalled while going 60mph. I could hardly control the car and I drifted to my exit. Then I got it started to park it and had it towed for repairs.

The car seems to be OK now. My only concern is the temp sometimes goes a bar or two above center, then it drops back to center after a couple of minutes with the A/C on. I'm trying to figure out why it's doing that. The last time I was getting extra heat, they said my radiator was gunked up. So, I replaced it. Perhaps I need a radiator flush or maybe, it's acting normal due to the fact it goes back to center (even while driving with the A/C on). I have no codes. Other than the temp going up a bar or two, then levels off...has me a little concerned. What do you think?
 

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2010 DTS
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87,864 Posts
If it's not overflowing or overheating, I'd just keep an eye on it. One top off after opening the cooling system is normal. If it is a problem, rest assured, it'll get worse.

I assume you are no longer having the stalling problem? That sounded a lot like CKP sensors.
 

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2001 Deville (Base)
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192 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
If it's not overflowing or overheating, I'd just keep an eye on it. One top off after opening the cooling system is normal. If it is a problem, rest assured, it'll get worse.

I assume you are no longer having the stalling problem? That sounded a lot like CKP sensors.
Correct, it no longer stalls (knock on wood). I had those multiple sensors replaced to be on the safe side. Sure enough, no codes and no stalls. Just the temp gauge going up a bar or two, then back down after like 3 minutes. However, it's not chronic. I will keep an eye on it though. Thanks Ranger.
 

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2010 DTS
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It's possible that you have a sticky thermostat (or maybe a more sensitive gauge). Just keep an eye on it. Consistency is good. Any changes indicate something is amiss.
 

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2003 DTS
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205 Posts
If you're stuck in nyc traffic after getting off of the highway on a warm day, I wouldn't be surprised with the temp rising a notch or two. As long as it goes back down, I would say things are operating normally.
 

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2001 Deville DTS
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136 Posts
Mine is doing the same thing, and just started as the weather started getting in the 70s and 80s. The car is new to me so I don't know if this is normal or not. I'm going to continue to look into it: 1)Test thermostat in a pan of water. 2)Flush the radiator good. 3)Do a block test (gulp)
 

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2010 DTS
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Mine is doing the same thing, and just started as the weather started getting in the 70s and 80s. The car is new to me so I don't know if this is normal or not. I'm going to continue to look into it: 1)Test thermostat in a pan of water. 2)Flush the radiator good. 3)Do a block test (gulp)
You're jumping the gun.
 

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2001 Deville DTS
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Ranger, I'm sure I'm hypersensitive, I've maybe read too much in this forum. It just seems that others have a temp gauge that doesn't move. I'll go through the first couple steps before even wasting money on a block test. Thanks for the interest.
 

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2003 DTS
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My temp indication is usually stuck right in the middle until I get of the highway. I usually have to sit at 3 lights and my temp will creep up a notch or two until either I start moving again or my fans are given a chance to do their job. I'm not worried at all.
 

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2001 Deville DTS
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reppinshadyvill: That is EXACTLY what mine does, just doesn't seem to fit other's experience. From others opinion, it would have to be 100 to even get it to move a needle width. How long has your's done that?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Our temp "gauges" are highly damped. With some HVAC function set that calls for A/c compressor operation the fans run in SLOW all the time. Your "gauge" needle will normally sit right about at 12:00 all the time in that case.

That 12 O'clock position represents a coolant temp of from 188 to about 205 degrees F. The normal Northstar coolant temp.

With NO HVAC/compressor set, fans go to SLOW at 224 degrees, the engine cools to 213, fans stop, the cycle repeats. Normal.

Again - the ticks on this gauge picture correspond to the 135 degrees (of arc) sweep "gauges" as well as the bars in the fluorescent DIC. This picture is posted about a hundred times in these forums as well as in my albums of Northstar parts and diagrams.

Avaya, Please read the thermostat opening points in the picture. Your thermostat is perfectly fine.

And again, the sticky posts in Engines; Northstar explain gauge operation, cooling system operation, and fan sequencing.

Why doesn't the gauge actually move in response to normal engine heating and cooling ? You guys have said it: If a gauge actually moves, modern drivers go freako. One reason these cars have no oil pressure gauges - If a modern driver ever saw an oil pressure gauge go from 15 psi at idle to over 60 psi and back to 15 between the stoplights the car would be at the dealership every day: "The oil gauge MOVED !!! Help !!!". On a normal summer day in the city your coolant temp will vary from 190 to 220 all day long. Normal. On the open highway - once the system equalizes - the coolant runs at about 200, regardless of ambient temperature. Normal. The gauge ticks up a notch or two after a highway run because the entire drivetrain passes off a LOT of heat to the cooling system, which faithfully tries to keep it around 200 or so. Normal.
 

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2010 DTS
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Ranger, I'm sure I'm hypersensitive, I've maybe read too much in this forum. It just seems that others have a temp gauge that doesn't move.
It's called internetitis. MOST (including mine) are dampened so much that they are just slightly better than an analogue version of the old idiot light. On rare occasions we hear of one that seems to be a bit more sensitive. You just need to watch it and learn what is normal for YOUR car.
 

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Mine made it up to 2:00 just briefly after climbing a long hill and then sank quickly once cruising. I doubt that high a reading is normal, but I'll keep an eye on it.
 
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