Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
2003 SLS
Joined
·
5 Posts
I recently purchased a 2003 Cadillac Seville SLS Northstar second hand. I live in Arizona and I believe the original owner lived in Arizona.

I took my car to the emissions and it didn't pass due to a P 0410 code. I check the specs on my car and see that if the car was in California, there should be two air pumps (one on the left and one on the right.)

In looking at the car, there is only one on the drivers front side
How do I know if my car requires both or only one? Was there 2 and one is missing? If only one, is the one on the drivers side the proper one.

I see some deterioration in my pump housing and will replace the pump. I am receiving suction on the inlet hose and hear the pump operating.
 

·
Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
·
19,254 Posts
I recently purchased a 2003 Cadillac Seville SLS Northstar second hand. I live in Arizona and I believe the original owner lived in Arizona.

I took my car to the emissions and it didn't pass due to a PO410 code. I check the specs on my car and see that if the car was in California, there should be two air pumps (one on the left and one on the right.)

In looking at the car, there is only one on the drivers front side
How do I know if my car requires both or only one? Was there 2 and one is missing? If only one, is the one on the drivers side the proper one.

I see some deterioration in my pump housing and will replace the pump. I am receiving suction on the inlet hose and hear the pump operating.
===========================
when discussing codes - ALWAYS include the DEFINITIONS -
no one has them all memorized -

here is the best site for Cadillac codes -
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/dtccode.html

------------------------

How do I know if my car requires both or only one?

check the RPO - Regular Production Options - sticker located on the underside of the spare tire cover -
this lists ALL the options your car left the factory with -
they are listed as a 3-character - alpha-numeric code -

go here to decipher the codes -
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/rpo/
 

·
Registered
2003 SLS
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
According to the code NC1 - Emission system California. From my understanding, Arizona does not require that second motor. Am I correct about this? Will I need to replace the missing motor to make it pass Arizona standards or to operate properly? I believe it has passed our emissions test from the prior owner before.
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
68,423 Posts
Our non-California cars have only one AIR pump/system, the one on the driver's side, just inside the front part of the LF wheelwell. If you look at the passenger side strut tower you'll see a blue connector on a gray relay, clipped to a bracket bolted to the tower. That's the AIR pump relay - depending on emissions level some cars have no AIR (relay), some have one, some have two.

FWIW, My STS (originally delivered and sold in Staten Island, NY) also has RPO NC1, California emissions, but that refers primarily to the catalytic converter original install and PCM tuning. Your car should be emissions-compatible for all 50 states.

Bottom line - No, you don't need to install (if at all possible) a second AIR pump and electrical/control system.

Here's your vacuum system - including the AIR check valve solenoid and routing to the 2 valves.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1926 Model T street rod, 2000 Jaguar XJ8, 1999 Corvette.
Joined
·
6,737 Posts
This is another case of not having the factory service manual and wanting to work, diagnose your car. The fault code tells us you have a AIR fault and needs fault traced as the manual directs. I presume the service now or check engine light was on? prior to the test. Running or checking for fault codes is not a requirement to perform a test. If the light's on, no test should be performed to begin with. If the light is off, no smog tech should have any reason to check for codes. Some codes can be history codes from years or weeks before. Erase the code and IF IT COMES BACK. then do the diagnostics. The rule of thumb is the car must be unaltered. An Arizona car tested in California would be tested as an Arizona car. If the BAR code says it should have a second air pump then someone altered the car and as the owner you must reinstall it. Scanning the BAR code under the VIN number tells the technician and the smog machine the criteria of the test. You either have a 49 state car or a California car.

----------

Don't know about Arizona rules, but in California the seller is required to smog it prior to sale. Did you buy this from a dealer or private party?
 

·
Registered
1985 Fleetwood 75
Joined
·
345 Posts
Probably air pump is getting water and causing locked rotor then blow fuse. see below:

Check Engine Light on Due to Failure of Secondary Air Injection Pump on Cadillac Seville SLS

Water may be drawn into the secondary air injection (AIR) pump causing the pump to fail and the Check Engine Light to illuminate. There is a kit available from General Motors to relocate the air intake for the pump which should prevent future damage from water intrusion.
 

·
Registered
1992 Seville, 2002 Eldorado ETC
Joined
·
80 Posts
How critical is it to replace the smog pump? Mine has been out for the past 6 months throwing the check engine code for it, but since I live in MI and we don't have any inspections, I've just put it off. It's a CA car, so I'm assuming there are two on it..

Car seems to run fine. Exhaust smells a wee bit rich on really cold starts and the pump will kick on occasionally when driving. Is it necessary I get it repaired in order to maintain catalytic converter life?
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
68,423 Posts
AIR is necessary for not only reducing startup emissions but it also affects converter life - the system lights off the cat quickly - which means it gets hotter faster and thus burns off startup soot deposits.

See Post #4 for AIR pump installations.
 

·
Super Moderator
White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
Joined
·
86,781 Posts
The pump is nothing more than a blower that blows cool air into the exhaust for the first :45 seconds or so after a cold start to "light" the CAT quicker so as to reduce emissions during cold starts. If you have no emission testing, ignore it. It won't hurt your CAT one bit to leave it alone.

EDIT:
Oops, Sub beat me to it.
 

·
Registered
1992 Seville, 2002 Eldorado ETC
Joined
·
80 Posts
The pump is nothing more than a blower that blows cool air into the exhaust for the first :45 seconds or so after a cold start to "light" the CAT quicker so as to reduce emissions during cold starts. If you have no emission testing, ignore it. It won't hurt your CAT one bit to leave it alone.

EDIT:
Oops, Sub beat me to it.
Looks like the forum OGs are at a disagreement... Vital for cat life or not? That was my main concern. Those get expensive to replace.
 

·
Super Moderator
White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
Joined
·
86,781 Posts
Well, I am by no means an authority on the subject, and I may well be wrong, but I can't ever recall hearing anything about the A.I.R. pump having any effect on CAT longevity. Personally, I would not be concerned.
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
68,423 Posts
OK - I just finished some internet searches on the AIR thing and catalytic converters. Apparently, with the newer honeycomb cats the old clogging worry has been greatly reduced. So, cold starts may not be as detrimental to cat life, especially if the car is driven away soon after start. So, I'll temper my previous cold start soot statement with "AIR is a necessary emissions control system during cold starts and may have some effect on converter life."

Honeycomb substrate cats - much higher flow than the older ones packed with treated ceramic BBs. So that accounts for the decreased clogging.
 

·
Registered
2001 eldorado,2008 DTS,2005 XLR, '96 eldo,'95 eldo,' 89 eldo,'78 eldo,'11CTS-V
Joined
·
1,714 Posts
Sub, I've seen many a clogged/ melted honeycomb cat which I ASSUME was from excessive rich mixture and/or oilburning. Whether AIR would have helped (in this case), I don't know Maybe a detriment, as the added air would helped burn off these extra fuels creating a higher cat temp than designed for.
 

·
Registered
02 Seville, 04 SRX
Joined
·
1,341 Posts
Just hopping in to confuse everyone. I kept getting the same code on my car, after replacing the pump and then it returned a month or two later. There are two valves (I think that was what they were called); on in the front near the water pump and another in the back. When one of those go bad, it will trigger the same code. I never figured out how to diagnose which one is bad, I do remember seeing a video on the internet where they did the diagnosis with a BMW. I would imagine it be a similar procedure. Hell, I may try and fix it while we sit in self quarantine. I just know that after not driving the car all winter, I'm going to see a ton of codes.
 

·
Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
Joined
·
68,423 Posts
On most Nothstars the valves are the AIR check/supply valves, operated by vacuum from a solenoid next to the right (rear) bank valve.

The right bank valve is on a bracket on the cam cover; the left bank one is next to the thermostat housing.

Check the plastic vacuum lines and their connectors. If one is broken/cracked either sleeve it with correct sized rubber vacuum tube or replace the entire line, connectors and all, with a single piece of rubber vacuum line from any parts store.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top