That article hits all the important points. The writer has an uphill battle to deal with in getting his point across concerning 1 wire alternators. "Joe downtown has had one on his Chevy for 78 years and it always worked for him". I can hear it now. There are legions of armchair, internet surfing, magazine reading, believe anything written in an advertisement, mis-information exchanging, never even changed a spark plug slugs out there to fight with. I wish him luck. Sometimes it's just better to let them flounder.
Back at the ranch, your schematic has no provision for taking the regulator sensing directly from the battery so it is incomplete. Your alternator will be .6 to .7 volts too low in output to fully charge the batt. Look again at the article. They call it "Remote Voltage Sensing". Look at trucking of heavy equipment outlets for isloators that can handle some heavy continuous current. A hint at current capability will be the size of heat sink mounted to the diode pair. A typical truck installation would be for a lift gate DC motor. The isolator gets tied to the alternator output and one isolator out goes to the truck's electricals, the other directly to the lift gate controls. The lift gate will now only work with the engine running so you cannot kill the batt.
Another good point in the article is the one made about alternator core sizing. There are tricks to increase the alternator's peak power that do little or nothing to increase continuous output. One way to increase an automotive alternator's output is to reconnect the 3 phase windings from a Y connection to a Delta. The Delta wound alternator will make more peak amperage at the expense of low output at low revs. When upgrading alternators, you want more continuous power. This will come with more cooling capability also. I like the Delco 21SI but have not tried adapting one to my Cadillac yet.
