[CTSV_510]

FYI - I called Magnuson because I couldn't find an answer anywhere in the past week about whether or not it is safe to put seafoam through a maggie.

They said NO F'N WAY. Apparently it is bad for the bearings and letting that stuff sit on them will cause premature wear and potential failure.

I really don't see how it could cause bearing failure, but it's not worth taking a chance even if Magnuson only says that to cover themselves and doesn't actually know if it's OK or not. I don't need to go through busted internal bearings again.

It's too bad because I planned on doing a full seafoam maintenance - fuel, crankcase and intake/cylinder cleaning in preparation for a possible 2.6 pulley change. I wanted everything in tip top shape before upping the boost, but it appears that the intake/cylinder part of the process is not going to happen. And that's the one part I really wanted to get done.

I wonder if spraying some directly into the cylinders through the spark plug holes would be beneficial at all? It certainly wouldn't make its way anywhere near the maggie bearings, but may coat enough of the combustion chambers/valves/pistons to help a little? :hmm:

 

[ctsv154]

The seafoam cleans oil and carbon deposits off of everything. If it runs though a bearing it can clean all the oil out, which is obviously a bad thing.

By the way, running it though your fuel would probably be fine as the injector is after the blower but still in front of the intake valve.

 

[The Tony Show]

An old school trick for cleaning carbon out of your engine is to drain the oil from the crankcase and replace it with 4 quarts new oil and a quart or two of ATF. Drive the car easy for a day, then do a full oil/filter change. Obviously, don't beat the snot out of the car while the ATF is in there.

I've done this to many high mileage cars I bought to turn into autocrossers, and it works like a charm. Do at your own risk, etc, etc....

 

[Slithering_Joe]

CTSV 510, what makes you think you even need to clean anything? Also, I wouldn't expect any buildup on the maggie since the rotors have such close tolernaces and they spin at a good rate that nothing could buildup in the first place. I wouldn't fill anything into the crank case except motor oil. It's not worth risking any of the engine bearings or piston rings for the belief or paranoia that there may be deposits that may affect performance. I rebuilt a Ford 5.0L a while ago with 140,000 miles on it. All I used was the $0.99 store brand motor oil following 3-5,000 mile oil changes. I was surprised on how clean it was inside. If one is granny-driving the car I wouldn't expect it to have any restrictions caused by deposits. If one is grannying the car, then what the heck does one car about any loss in performance that it may cause?

 

[Twitch]

Joe, was that a typo at the end of your post? Grannying the car causes deposits, right? I know the Northstar guys recommend that you go WOT once in a while to keep everything clear.
I wonder if the blower has any effect on this. With all that extra air and gas.......

 

[SkullV]

An old school trick for cleaning carbon out of your engine is to drain the oil from the crankcase and replace it with 4 quarts new oil and a quart or two of ATF. Drive the car easy for a day, then do a full oil/filter change. Obviously, don't beat the snot out of the car while the ATF is in there.

I've done this to many high mileage cars I bought to turn into autocrossers, and it works like a charm. Do at your own risk, etc, etc....

Some people used to do that at the lube place I worked at....shhhh...add a quart of ATF to the crankcase instead of the oil system cleaner that the customer paid for..run the car for 20 minutes, do an oil change. It actually does work really well.

 

[The Tony Show]

Yep. ATF has a good amount of detergent solvents in it, and it does good work cleaning any gunk out of the valvetrain, oil pan and crankshaft. The last car I did this to is my autocross Miata which now has 150,000 miles on it, the last 20,000 of them being WOT on a racetrack. Runs great.

 

[Slithering_Joe]

Joe, was that a typo at the end of your post? Grannying the car causes deposits, right? I know the Northstar guys recommend that you go WOT once in a while to keep everything clear.
I wonder if the blower has any effect on this. With all that extra air and gas.......

Yeah, I goofed. Grannying the the car causes deposits. A friend always says a performance car always needs a good 'Italian tune up' - a wide open throttle drive-by!

 

[thebigjimsho]

Yeah, I goofed. Grannying the the car causes deposits. A friend always says a performance car always needs a good 'Italian tune up' - a wide open throttle drive-by!

a Guido tune up?

 

[CTSV_510]

The seafoam cleans oil and carbon deposits off of everything. If it runs though a bearing it can clean all the oil out, which is obviously a bad thing.

By the way, running it though your fuel would probably be fine as the injector is after the blower but still in front of the intake valve.

I didn't think the seafoam cleaned oil off anything since it is petroleum based itself, I just thought it cleaned carbon deposits. You are supposed to actually dump half a bottle into your crankcase and them change your oil after 100 or 200 miles to clean out everything that the oil touches.

An old school trick for cleaning carbon out of your engine is to drain the oil from the crankcase and replace it with 4 quarts new oil and a quart or two of ATF. Drive the car easy for a day, then do a full oil/filter change. Obviously, don't beat the snot out of the car while the ATF is in there.

I've done this to many high mileage cars I bought to turn into autocrossers, and it works like a charm. Do at your own risk, etc, etc....

Never heard this, good info, not sure I'll do it though.

CTSV 510, what makes you think you even need to clean anything? Also, I wouldn't expect any buildup on the maggie since the rotors have such close tolernaces and they spin at a good rate that nothing could buildup in the first place. I wouldn't fill anything into the crank case except motor oil. It's not worth risking any of the engine bearings or piston rings for the belief or paranoia that there may be deposits that may affect performance. I rebuilt a Ford 5.0L a while ago with 140,000 miles on it. All I used was the $0.99 store brand motor oil following 3-5,000 mile oil changes. I was surprised on how clean it was inside. If one is granny-driving the car I wouldn't expect it to have any restrictions caused by deposits. If one is grannying the car, then what the heck does one car about any loss in performance that it may cause?

I don't think the maggie has build-up on it, but my engine is almost at 50k miles and I'm sure it does. I am not sure how it was driven for the first 36k miles of it's life because that is when I picked it up. I am getting ready to increase the boost on the maggie and I don't want any carbon deposits in the combustion chambers that could cause detonation problems.

Yeah, I goofed. Grannying the the car causes deposits. A friend always says a performance car always needs a good 'Italian tune up' - a wide open throttle drive-by!

My car gets driven pretty much or close to the opposite of how Randy's does. :lol:

In other words, it gets an Italian tune up everyday.

 

[BLACK CAR]

If you know anyone with a nitrous kit you could borrow, run a small shot through a couple of times. The combustion is much hotter than N/A and will actually burn off carbon build up. No joke.

 

[ctsv154]

I didn't think the seafoam cleaned oil off anything since it is petroleum based itself, I just thought it cleaned carbon deposits. You are supposed to actually dump half a bottle into your crankcase and them change your oil after 100 or 200 miles to clean out everything that the oil touches.

Gasoline is petroleum based and it will remove oil! When its mixed with oil it will basically be a detergent and it will also thin the oil slightly. When used straight, it is aggressive and will remove oil as well.

The point I was making was spraying down the intake while the engine is running. With raw seafoam going into the intake of a maggie, you are washing the oil off the rotors and all of the friction surfaces in the blower. Not a good thing.

 

[CTSV_510]

If you know anyone with a nitrous kit you could borrow, run a small shot through a couple of times. The combustion is much hotter than N/A and will actually burn off carbon build up. No joke.

:lildevil:

Gasoline is petroleum based and it will remove oil! When its mixed with oil it will basically be a detergent and it will also thin the oil slightly. When used straight, it is aggressive and will remove oil as well.

The point I was making was spraying down the intake while the engine is running. With raw seafoam going into the intake of a maggie, you are washing the oil off the rotors and all of the friction surfaces in the blower. Not a good thing.

I gotcha. Precisely why I asked before doing this...

 

[AlmostAV]

This is the writeup I used when I first found seafoam. I follow his instructions very closely. And yes it is a 100% petroleum based product that reduces moisture and cleans carbon.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html

Honestly not sure about the maggie. I bet several people on tech have seafoamed there maggie....just do a search. I know people with cobras with whipples that seafoam all the time with no issues. But I guess listen to magnusson...although Im just thinking they are protecting themselves from their own product failing. IE they dont want to tell you its ok bc they dont really know the answer....so they just say no.