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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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2,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can anybody think of what I might have missed that is keeping the ol girl from starting? I've done the bypass on the wires to the ignition switch, checked harness and connector at the Passcode II module ( was a problem a couple years ago when moisture got in the connector and corroded one of the terminals, I soldered a bypass wire in and fixed it that time) checked neutral start switch and everything tests ok there, ( in the past I took it apart and cleaned out the dried up grease, fixed a starting problem at that time ). Can anybody think of something I missed.
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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20,124 Posts
Can anybody think of what I might have missed that is keeping the ol girl from starting? I've done the bypass on the wires to the ignition switch, checked harness and connector at the Passcode II module ( was a problem a couple years ago when moisture got in the connector and corroded one of the terminals, I soldered a bypass wire in and fixed it that time) checked neutral start switch and everything tests ok there, ( in the past I took it apart and cleaned out the dried up grease, fixed a starting problem at that time ). Can anybody think of something I missed.
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hey Dennis - been a long time -

so - is it a crank - no start - or a no crank?
I assume you have checked all the fuses by the parking brake -
and have checked all the relays under the glove box - and the maxi fuses under the hood -
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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2,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
basscatt, yes it has been. I got carried away the past 4 years with too many cars. It's been tough letting Gracie the old Coupe Deville go. I had her for over 19 years and she was a good ride for the most part until this year.

It is a no crank, which most likely would have been the tiny wire syndrome. Not so this time. I'm sure it's in the circuit keeping it from cranking as the voltage does not drop that much when I turn the key to start. If it was battery or starter I'd think my voltage would hit bottom.

I'll check the fuses and relays. They sure did a good job hiding the modules to keep this car from starting.
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
Joined
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20,124 Posts
basscatt, yes it has been. I got carried away the past 4 years with too many cars. It's been tough letting Gracie the old Coupe Deville go. I had her for over 19 years and she was a good ride for the most part until this year.

It is a no crank, which most likely would have been the tiny wire syndrome. Not so this time. I'm sure it's in the circuit keeping it from cranking as the voltage does not drop that much when I turn the key to start. If it was battery or starter I'd think my voltage would hit bottom.

I'll check the fuses and relays. They sure did a good job hiding the modules to keep this car from starting.
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so - it's back to the basics -
work from the starter back -

in the START position - is there power to the starter solenoid -
if NO -
with the ignition ON - try jumping the solenoid -
does the engine crank -
did it start -

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cranked and started means only the starter was affected -
ignition switch - neutral safety switch - etc -

if it cranked but did not start - check fuel pressure at the rail -
no crank - no fuel pressure - points to an anti-theft issue -
 

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70 Deville 78 Seville 92 Deville 03 Deville
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831 Posts
I've seen a lot of no cranks with bad battery connections. Since your voltage isn't dropping it must not be getting to the starter.
 

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'93 Regal coupe ('91 Fltwd coupe previously)
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434 Posts
If you haven't considered the transmission neutral safety switch, keep your foot on the brake with the key turned to the "Start" position and shift the transmission into the different gears to see if the starter will turn. If this switch was way out of wack the car may not even start doing this. It should at least be aligned if the reverse light comes on while the transmission is in R but that doesn't necessarily mean the switch itself isn't otherwise messed up. I had it replaced on another car for about $100.

With the VATS even if you think you've bypassed it, do make sure the SECURITY light goes solid and then goes out when the key is turned to the "Engine Off, Key On" position.
 

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1993 Coupe Deville, 2009 XLR-V 1 of 6 Crystal Red
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2,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well after typing a long post my internet connection acted up and I lost my entire post. Anyway I'm following the FSM and have gotten it to start and run for about a second or 2. This is from bypassing the start enable relay. It's a matter of the Pass Key II module telling the PCM/BCM to keep the engine running. The PAss Key II module isn't sending to signal to keep it running. So I'm checking some wires and connectors and will get to the transmission switch eventually. I've got other pressing matters and will have to take care of them but I will post back to let everybody know if I get it fixed before tuesday.
 

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'93 Regal coupe ('91 Fltwd coupe previously)
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434 Posts
I had to solder in a bypass module for VATS in mine when the key chip disappeared. Never had an issue with it again. They're cheap on eBay if you know your VATS code (a dealer will tell you though some will charge for this information where some will not) and solder right into the ignition wire.

Also, once the engine is started it shouldn't matter whether it detects the VATS code or not. I have a switch on my VATS module and if I turn it off with the engine running the car will stay running.
 

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92 Fleetwood 2dr cpe - FWD, 96 Seville SLS, 02 Seville
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1,026 Posts
Correct. If VATS fails after running, the engine will continue running but security code will be set for next ignition cycle.
 
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