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94 Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #1
It would be pretty cool for those who have done mods to your car (small or large), and have 1/4mile times to back up what your ride can do, do a write-up of the recipe you did to your car to get it to where it is now. Feel free to use this forum as a log too, what worked, what didn't.

IF that is, you are willing to tell...

Like Fasstwood's recent 13.98 Fleetwood, what makes it "tick". And if you have any recommendations on what made the most difference in power or 1/4mi times. Any dyno #'s would be greatly appreciated too.

 

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1996 Fleetwood
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Stock 16.45 average. Jumped from the 2.56 open differ to a 3.42 posi rear end. Dropped to a 15.93 so far, the launch could have been harder, and there's a bit more tweaking to get it 100% happy. Also had the comp tuned by pcmforless.com at the recommendation of the Impala boys. That helped with the 15.9, but still more to do.
 

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I'd be interested to know just how much the PCM tune did. I've heard varying results from Bryan Herter. I know he's got a pretty good name in the local Impala SS community and all but nonetheless, I've heard some negative stuff too.
As for my mods, unfortunately I never did a baseline or any runs until I had all my hard-parts in place. My runs have all been done for the purpose of testing PCM flashes I've done. Since I use LT1-Edit, I do my own calibrations and therefore needed some runs to feel out how I was doing. It was my first time doing such a thing so there was some trial and error for sure.
The only other problem I have is that my runs were made on different days with different climactic conditions, so there has to be some accountability for changes in temp, humidity, track conditions etc.
Bottom line, unless you have some serious controls here, the data will mean very little. I CAN tell you that I know my hard-part mods did not have anything but positive results from perspective of power gains. It's easy for me to say that since my hard-part mods are actually quite simple and basic from a hot-rodding angle. Free-up the engine breathing via intake and exhaust mods, increase available torque via gearing change, increase power to the pavement via locking differential and wider/stickier tires. It's all rather traditional hot-rodding stuff. It's the PCM calibrations that were the wildcard here. Tweak one thing wrong and end up hurting the ET rather than helping it. I'm relatively sure I STILL haven't reached my peak yet but to be honest, I've lost that loving feeling for the search for the "ultimate" ET and am moving on with a couple other power-makers. This winter I hope to make a couple mods that should get me into the low 13's at least. Again without any engine mods. I'm striving to maintain a totally stock engine in my car, but that severely limits my upper limits on power output. We'll see in the spring hopefully.
 

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Heres what my friend has in his r1p 95 caddy. Ran a 13.4

95'"R1P" Hearse Pkg.(4600lb) BBB Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham w/a 125k Stock w/bolt-ons 95' Vette Lt1 Alum-Headed Stock Susp.,Mez Elec W/P,1.6 SS Rockers,Hedman Headers,Pro-built 4l60E, 9"Conv (?),Eaton Posi, Gear Ratio (?),Prog. by BRYAN,Full Magnaflow Exhaust....1/4:[email protected] 60':1.91 Spinning out da hole on M/T D/R's...Now currently in Winter hibernation 4 upcomin Heads & Cam Job & a little chassis work..
 

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94 Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #5
Typhoon, what gearing was he running?

I am running stock still, with only TB bypass (which will probably go back to stock here shortly) and 3 1.5" holes drilled in airbox. Else stone stock. I hope to get to a track soon, but nothing is open here now, maybe in the spring I will give it a try.

Maybe I am not seeing the full "restriction" of the home plate and first base, but I did some vacuum testing on the intake tract (before and after throttle body) and the reading looked identical, at rev limiter in 2nd. About a hair over 1in vacuum reading. So in my mind, from the air box (mine modded) to the throttle body, there is no restrictions. I hope to get track time enough to make some runs w/ and w/o home plate/first base to see for sure.

The LT1 Aluminum heads have been a thought for me, mainly in weight savings as opposed to flow (I have heard they flow less). And I have also heard the 96-97 Aluminum heads matched the iron heads on flow.

Probably worth dropping the $$ on a set of Edelbrock ETech 170's or other moderate aftermarket alum head if I go that route. By the time I purchase, rebuild and do any work on stock heads likely blow over $1K anyway.

Kevin, are you running stock converter still? In my car, (is the V4P a tighter converter??) the converter really seems like a tight one, in first gear acceleration, it somewhat gives you some rubberband feel it is so tight once you are moving. Maybe it is my lack of experience with the overall gear combination my car has too. 3.06 X 3.42 = 10.47:1 ratio is pretty high. My T/A is only 2.52 X 3.08 = 7.76:1 with a looser converter (stalled at 2400 stock with 455 in there, more like 1800 rpm with 301 Turbo). Anyone else with 3.42's or lower (numerically higher) see that rubberbanding feel? If I lay into it off the line, I don't see it, just more for gentle driving.
 

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1994 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (some show and some go!)
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Will report back in the spring, hopefully can hit the dyno and dragstrip in the spring with my 94 Fleetwood Brougham. No baseline numbers on mine, either.
My goals for the car were NOT to squeeze out every HP possible, just to make a nice 'sleeper' for myself and have fun while modding.

98K miles, LT1 engine with stock iron heads
Ex Components valve springs good to .550" lift IIRC
Comp Pro Mag 1.5 roller rockers
LT4 knock module in PCM to reduce false knock from RR
PCM reprogrammed by pcmforless.com (Bryan Herter) mail order tune
Turbo mufflers on stock exhaust pipes, H-pipe welded in
Clear Image Automotive tubular manifolds (mini-headers basically, like a shorty)
3.42 rear gears with posi
Stock tranny and torque converter (PCM programmed for firmer shifts - boosted line pressure)
GMPP845 cam 214/224, total lift at .488/.509" with 1.5 rockers
 

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N0DIH said:
Typhoon, what gearing was he running?
I am running stock still, with only TB bypass (which will probably go back to stock here shortly) and 3 1.5" holes drilled in airbox. Else stone stock. I hope to get to a track soon, but nothing is open here now, maybe in the spring I will give it a try.
Maybe I am not seeing the full "restriction" of the home plate and first base, but I did some vacuum testing on the intake tract (before and after throttle body) and the reading looked identical, at rev limiter in 2nd. About a hair over 1in vacuum reading. So in my mind, from the air box (mine modded) to the throttle body, there is no restrictions. I hope to get track time enough to make some runs w/ and w/o home plate/first base to see for sure.
The LT1 Aluminum heads have been a thought for me, mainly in weight savings as opposed to flow (I have heard they flow less). And I have also heard the 96-97 Aluminum heads matched the iron heads on flow.
Probably worth dropping the $$ on a set of Edelbrock ETech 170's or other moderate aftermarket alum head if I go that route. By the time I purchase, rebuild and do any work on stock heads likely blow over $1K anyway.
Kevin, are you running stock converter still? In my car, (is the V4P a tighter converter??) the converter really seems like a tight one, in first gear acceleration, it somewhat gives you some rubberband feel it is so tight once you are moving. Maybe it is my lack of experience with the overall gear combination my car has too. 3.06 X 3.42 = 10.47:1 ratio is pretty high. My T/A is only 2.52 X 3.08 = 7.76:1 with a looser converter (stalled at 2400 stock with 455 in there, more like 1800 rpm with 301 Turbo). Anyone else with 3.42's or lower (numerically higher) see that rubberbanding feel? If I lay into it off the line, I don't see it, just more for gentle driving.
Yes, my trans and converter are both stock. Not sure about the towing package having a different converter or not. Check with the dealer. Ask them how many converters are shown for your car and they will ask about option codes if there's more than one used.
 

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MyTyphoon1993 said:
Heres what my friend has in his r1p 95 caddy. Ran a 13.4

95'"R1P" Hearse Pkg.(4600lb) BBB Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham w/a 125k Stock w/bolt-ons 95' Vette Lt1 Alum-Headed Stock Susp.,Mez Elec W/P,1.6 SS Rockers,Hedman Headers,Pro-built 4l60E, 9"Conv (?),Eaton Posi, Gear Ratio (?),Prog. by BRYAN,Full Magnaflow Exhaust....1/4:[email protected] 60':1.91 Spinning out da hole on M/T D/R's...Now currently in Winter hibernation 4 upcomin Heads & Cam Job & a little chassis work..
R1P is not a "hearse". The R1P package is just the "livery" package car.
 

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1995 Fleetwood Brougham
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709 Posts
Here is my list of mods... Clear image SSRI, delphi LS1 MAF, Comp Cams cc502 with a 114lsa, Comp Cams Pro-magum 1.6 roller rockers, combination motorsports ex614 valve springs, EX components hardened push rods,MSD coil, MSD wires, NGK TR55 plugs, 30lb. svo injectors, Edge 2900 stall Torque converter, Bryan Herter PCM tune, AfterBurner headers from flowtech, H-pipe,Flowmasters w/resonators, Eaton 400lb. posi w/3.73's, Airpump/EGR/Cat delete. Both the heads and the block were cleaned up at my local machine shop. A 3 angle valve job was done to my stock unported iron heads. I dynoed 286rwhp, 292tq on Mustang dyno...

As far as suspension mods go I've done Monroe Severe Service Shocks all around, Impala SS springs with half a coil cut off up front, ZQ8 bumpstops, AIr Lift rear air bags in the coils.

I know the car has more but, I have to work out fuel issues and I just resolved a bad o2 bung issue that was making the car run rich when i was at E-town. My next mod will be the racetronics fuel pump harness and walbro fuel pump. I'm also getting a new fuel sender from the dealer which isn't cheap since my fuel gauge isn't accurate before i do the fuel pump...

I felt the biggest differences in the car with the stall converter and gears.

I had the BH mail tune but when i dynoed the car he tweeked the tune and got another 15hp out of it. The car was running rich up top and he said he leaned it out some more...

You culd see a few pics of my motor going together http://www.edsautos.com
 

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94 Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #11
Is the Eaton 400 lb posi the tougher one or the weaker? I know they had 2 of them. I have one from my 96 Suburban that I just took out that will be going into mine next spring, unless I get some time in a warm garage.

Fasstwood, did the air bags just replace the air shocks, or were they to help tune for traction? I want to get one air bag for the right coil and see if I can make it hook up a little better.
 

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1995 Fleetwood Brougham
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I've seen some people say they have the eaton 800lbs. posi but not sure about that. I think the difference is in the springs they install in the diff which makes it 400 or 800 lbs.

The air bags I have are seperate from the shocks. I do not have air shocks in my car. I have the Monroe Severe Service shocks all around. I used them primarily for tuning the traction. At the track i ran the left at 5 lbs. and the right at 15 lbs. Usually i keep both at 5 lbs. to keep a somewhat smoother ride. The ride gets really stiff with more air in them.

Here's a pic
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So they aren't hooked up to the level ride?

But it is something I have been looking at so I can put some better rear shocks on. I have AC Delco air shocks on back now, but they are pretty weak now. I have the Gabriel Ultra 9C1 shocks on front, they are doing an admiral job for a "cheapie" shock.
 

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They're not hooked up to the compressor although there was talk about hooking them up to level ride in another forum i go to, but I dont know if would work. In theory yes, but i think the compressor would put too much psi into the bags. Max pressure for the air bags is like 20-25 psi. I think air shocks go a lot higher...
 
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