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Discussion Starter #1
While replacing my master cylinder this week, only had to go through 2 rebuilds until i bought a new one that didn't leak like the rebuild did. Noticed a loss of brake fluid, checked for leaks and all was dry at the master cylinder, brakes go nearly to the floor so i figured after pumping my way through 2 leaky masters, i must have air in the lines but not the case at all. A nice steady drip from the rear brake line, i guess it's called the crossover line, where the lines meet at a block, good and rusty, i can feel a hole in it, hidden away 18" or so from the left rear caliper and most likely a major, drop the exhaust and cradle type of job. Also read all about these wonderful cars with rusted out brake lines, seeing $2800 for a complete replacement and a very common "feature" on our cars, mostly from the rust belt. How nice! I do believe it outranks timing chains and all of the other great options that come with the proud ownership of these rotten pieces of trash. This one is junkyard bound.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sure would be nice to have a collar like that, but i would bet the entire brake line system in this car is in the same rusted shape. Good thing i have a '55 Chevy and a '64 Chevelle that will be my daily drivers from now on, and the brake lines are original along with most of everything else, not the 10+ year rot to the ground type vehicles of today. Never, ever have i heard of stainless steel lines corroding away like that, but i have read countless horror stories of these cars doing just what mine has done.
 

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2006 CTS 2.8
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I personally replaced the metal sections of both of my rear brakes, with something like $30 worth of brake tubing that I bought at auto zone, a few months back. I bought the car when I was in New York for college, the line finally failed some 6 years later when I hit them hard to avoid a dog. I didn't have the money to get it repaired at a shop, so I got my tool and got to work, took me an entire day off, but I got it done. Haven't had a problem since. It's not really hard a little time consuming. Mine is a 2006 CTS 2.8L. So It may be different from what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have searched and came up with very little, 1 post of a guy in the same situation i am in but never a ending to his story. It's the crossover line, # 35 but i have to figure a way to connect that line without going over the differential, working in my gravel driveway with jackstands....this is a job for a guy with a lift. To find a straight shot across the rear of this car and connect #33 and #38 together.
cts brak lines.JPG
 

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2006 CTS 2.8
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8 Posts
I have searched and came up with very little, 1 post of a guy in the same situation i am in but never a ending to his story. It's the crossover line, # 35 but i have to figure a way to connect that line without going over the differential, working in my gravel driveway with jackstands....this is a job for a guy with a lift. To find a straight shot across the rear of this car and connect #33 and #38 together. View attachment 572534
I see, yours seems to be a bit different from mine. My ABS box is on the right of the car. Regardless mine does have a bracket the the 2 rearward lines share like #41, the right side that the bracket was on was no real problem. For the other side the passes over the diff (#35), I cut that section lose and ran my new line back behind the gas tank to the other side. It's not the stock setup but it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Should be the same set up as yours, i have the '06 CTS 2.8 also. I removed the line at # 38 and will disconnect the line at #33 and bend my way to meet them up again. I see the copper/nickel brake line that's supposed to be easy to bend so i hope to go that way. A 5' or 6' piece with fittings flared up for me would be a life saver. Like you, i will run it anywhere i can and not try and follow the factory path up and over the differential.
 

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2006 CTS 2.8
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8 Posts
Oh, well if it's the same car, yea it'll be the same, that diagram just sort of make thing look switched around from where they are in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, i wanted to post so if anyone else has the same situation i just went through, i went to NAPA and bought a 4' pre flared and fitted piece of 3/16" stainless steel brake line, $19.00, removed the clips that hold the rubber brake lines at the frame, behind the calipers, they are different from the left and right, the driver side rubber line comes off the caliper and the right side connects to a rubber line that goes up toward the differential, clipped to the frame, glad i caught that. I ran the new line over the rear and around the springs, made my easy connection as you are connecting to the fittings of the flexible rubber brake hose. Took very little bending and i used a big socket upside down on an extension as a guide to the bends, worked well. Now my new master cylinder has a weep at the rear fitting, a couple drips when i took a test drive, after googling, there is no fix that i could find except this one. I trimmed the edge off a finishing washer and it is supposed to go into the nipple in the master along with the fitting. The idea is that the aluminum washer will form around the nipple and make a seal after it is mashed in, afraid to try that right now so i will keep an eye on it. If anyone has any ideas on how i can fix this leaky fitting, please reply.
 

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2006 CTS 2.8
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Well, i wanted to post so if anyone else has the same situation i just went through, i went to NAPA and bought a 4' pre flared and fitted piece of 3/16" stainless steel brake line, $19.00, removed the clips that hold the rubber brake lines at the frame, behind the calipers, they are different from the left and right, the driver side rubber line comes off the caliper and the right side connects to a rubber line that goes up toward the differential, clipped to the frame, glad i caught that. I ran the new line over the rear and around the springs, made my easy connection as you are connecting to the fittings of the flexible rubber brake hose. Took very little bending and i used a big socket upside down on an extension as a guide to the bends, worked well. Now my new master cylinder has a weep at the rear fitting, a couple drips when i took a test drive, after googling, there is no fix that i could find except this one. I trimmed the edge off a finishing washer and it is supposed to go into the nipple in the master along with the fitting. The idea is that the aluminum washer will form around the nipple and make a seal after it is mashed in, afraid to try that right now so i will keep an eye on it. If anyone has any ideas on how i can fix this leaky fitting, please reply.
Just catching hell with these brake problems aren't you?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I really am....went through 2 rebuilt masters, they come bare without a new reservoir so you pound the 2 pins out that hold the res. in place and replace the 2 o-rings at the fitting. They both leaked bad so i bought a new one, all there, just bench bleed and install. A drop or two leaking out the rear fitting and it must be the line on my car and not the new master cylinder causing the leak. Wait and watch is all i can do. Using my classic car to fetch parts, my '64 Chevelle had a 6" round wet spot on the ground under the fuel pump when i came out of the parts store....it never ends :(
 

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Super Moderator 2005 CTS-V
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Sounds like you already took care of the rear brake line, but for future reference, the copper-nickel (aka Nicopp or cunifer) brake lines really are very, very easy to work with. I used some to re-do the hard lines on the 8.8" rear end in my Mustang. You can bend them by hand with little effort.
 
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