A rotten egg smell emanating from catalytic converters is common. It is usually at its worst with new cars, decreasing as the car gets more miles on it. It usually becomes unnoticeable at idle for cars more than a few months old. The presence of this smell does not necessarily indicate a problem. You may have a particularly sensitive nose. The smell is hydrogen sulfide gas that, along with oxygen, is a byproduct of the conversion generated by the catalytic converter. Excessive hydrogen sulfide can be an indication of too much unburned fuel getting through the engine, but if there is excessive unburned fuel, the Check Engine light would normally come on. A "bad" catalytic converter, assuming that means one that is not functioning, would actually result is less hydrogen sulfide.
Let us talk politics, since we have a shortage importing the good iraqi oil and getting more of the Saudi oil that I read one time that is high in sulfur and costs more to refine.... so wether it's a new car or old, every body is complaining about the rotten egg smell, mine too.... so it must be the gas that is causing those problems
Original poster of this thread was from Jersey, if I recall. They have federal reformulated gasoline statewide there, with sulfur level capped at 150 ppm. In that case, it doesn't matter where the crude originated or what brand/grade of gasoline it is.
Definitely a hydrogen sulfide issue, coming off the catalyst. Could be a cat problem, or it could still be a sulfur contamination issue. Couldn't hurt to try another brand of gas, in case its a fuel contamination issue. Did it just start on your last tankfull?
In my quest for a low buck injector solution I stumbled across the STS / XLR V injectors.
They are LS6 length and EV6/USCAR connection. This is not a solution for most, but for those who are LS2 with a fast 92 intake it maybe a good solution for you.
To use the FAST 92 intake successfully...
Decided to update the hydraulics a bit and did a full -4 AN set up, from master to slave. The benifit being no lost force through rubber line expansion, similar to braided steel brake lines. The system will transfer over to a new master or slave whenever future maintenance is required.
So your stock motor mounts look like this?
If they don't yet, they will.
Time to change them out for some nice new Rev Shift Motor Mounts!
(the Nylon Nuts on the RevShifts are 3/4"):
Tools you'll need:
Jack with piece of wood to distribute weight...