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My wife has a 2013 XTS Luxury,

Recently she (we) have experienced what can only be described as a hard "bang" when the right front end goes over a bump. Does not happen at low speeds, below 40-45. I had it into the dealer for a Pennsylvania State Inspection and asked him to look at the front suspension. He reported it as normal. Took it to my local mechanic, a pretty sharp car guy and I described the symptom to him. He thought for a second and said strut or bushing. I tend to rule out the strut because of what the dealer said. This dealer has been very reliable and fair in the past. I trust he looked at the strut, but doubt he looked at the bushing. I did not ask him to road test it.

Any member that might be able to "diagnose" what it might be please do. Like I said at lower speeds the car rides and handles normally. At higher speeds it also handles normally except when hitting a bump etc.

Hope I've explained it well enough.

Thanks!

David
 

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I would also say strut. Loud bangs typically are strut issues, where clunks are more likely to be ball joints and bushings. There is often no way to visually tell if a strut is bad, as the failure is within the body of the strut.

If it is consistently reproducible, ask your dealer or mechanic if they can fit the suspension with a set of chassis ears (magnetic microphones) and take it for a test drive. At the cost of these struts, I would want at least some diagnosis before throwing parts at it.
 

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Here's the dealer's strut/shock inspection and replacement criteria:

Condition 1: Oil or fluid residue only on the bottom or top of the shock absorber and not originating from the shaft seal, is not a shock absorber related problem. DO NOT replace the shock absorber, look for other external leaks.
Condition 2: Light film/residue on approximately 1/3 (a) or less of the lower shock tube (A) and originating from the shaft seal, is a NORMAL condition. DO NOT replace the shock absorber.
Condition 3: Oil drip or trail down the lower shock tube and originating from the shaft seal, is an ABNORMAL condition. Replace the shock absorber.
Condition 4: An extreme wet film of oil covering more than 1/3 (b) of the lower shock tube and originating from the shaft seal (B), is an ABNORMAL condition. Replace the shock absorber.

Inspection:

Note - The shock absorber assembly DOES NOT have to be removed from the vehicle to perform the following inspection procedure.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Visually inspect each of the shock absorbers for external fluid leaks. Refer to the following conditions 1-4 for a visual inspection.

• If conditions 1 or 2 are found, the strut is normal and your wallet will not get thinner.
• If conditions 3 or 4 are found, replace the shock absorber. Your wallet will get much thinner.

3. If equipped with an Electronic Suspension Control system, ensure the system is working properly.
4. Use your hands in order to lift up and push down on each corner of the vehicle three times. Remove your hands from the vehicle. If the corner motion exceeds two up and down cycles, replace the shock absorber. If the shock absorber does not exceed two up and down cycles, NO repair is necessary.


Note: Struts DO NOT require replacement as pairs; only replace the defective strut.

CCC
 

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Mine was making more of a knocking sound over a bump, not loud, just annoying, and it was the right front strut. Dealer replaced.
 

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CCC,

Seems like a great observation. Dealers seem to check for defects not normal usable life. I recall my struts being replaced around 30K, and it seems like time again around 60K. It seems usable life of the part should be considered.
 

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Uh oh. This is exactly how i first noticed my now toasted transmission. My 2013 was snuck in under the warranty wire and is currently in repair.
I first noticed hard jars / on right turns then jumping gears under high load (4 passengers and full trunk while fully warm). Over 2 years it got more frequent and severe. Have the service folks check the tranny pump pressure. Mine was erratic and causing violent shifting after 15+ minutes of stop and go traffic. Lack of consistent pump pressure toasted the torque converter and shift solenoids. Its a total mess.
 

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Not sure how a faulty transmission repair put off for two years relates to the shock/strut problems being discussed in this thread, but I'm all ears.
 

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Initial diagnosis was shocks and struts, hence my post here. Replacement of all shocks and struts did not fix the (similar sounding ) symptoms, . Next step was clearing tranny memory. Nope.
In my case, symptoms rarely appeared but did get more frequent over the last 2 years (99.9% of driving time no issues). After stop and go (warm up) and people in the car (payload), the slip/bang became more easily repeatable. It turns out the transmission was jumping in and out of gear. Hooking up a pressure gage to the trasmission immediately revealed problems.

the transmission is currently being replaced with new due to the amount of internal damage. Its amazing to me how well the car performed and rarity of symptoms considering the amount of damage.

I hope my write up helps others out there.
 

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Initial diagnosis was shocks and struts, hence my post here. Replacement of all shocks and struts did not fix the (similar sounding ) symptoms, . Next step was clearing tranny memory. Nope.
In my case, symptoms rarely appeared but did get more frequent over the last 2 years (99.9% of driving time no issues). After stop and go (warm up) and people in the car (payload), the slip/bang became more easily repeatable. It turns out the transmission was jumping in and out of gear. Hooking up a pressure gage to the trasmission immediately revealed problems.

the transmission is currently being replaced with new due to the amount of internal damage. Its amazing to me how well the car performed and rarity of symptoms considering the amount of damage. . .
That's a strange one.
 

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I have a 2014 XTS I bought with 28,000 miles and just after 2,000 miles of buying it I have areal loud bang on the driver front side. I took it to three shops and one said its a dealer part but they don't know the name of it. Another said it was the strut mount. So I bought a new factory mount and it quieted it a little but just after 20 miles back to banging loud. All three shops said my struts,ball joints and tie rods are solid. This is making me sick driving my new cadillac and sounding like a piece of crap.
 

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Have you taken it yet to a Cadillac dealer? I had a noise of some sort around 30K or so. At around 35K or so, the rear-end was lifted on one side. The dealer replaced both front struts. The sound and lift went away. But, it may be time for struts again with about 65K on the vehicle now.
 

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Maybe I'll get the strut and try that. I don't believe my front end has the air like some so I think a aftermarket strut should work
 

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Maybe I'll get the strut and try that. I don't believe my front end has the air like some so I think a aftermarket strut should work
None have "air" in the front except for the tires. :) The rear is air sprung. Yours does have the magnetic shocks in front like all '14's.
 
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