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2003 CTS
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174 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
If you recall, I had both crankshaft position sensors replaced in my 2000 STS. Once replaced, "Service Suspension SYS" appeared on the DIC. I went right back to the dealers (sure they screwed something up) and they said the ride height sensor had come undone while the crankshaft position sensors were replaced. Well, 2 weeks later, the same alert is on the DIC, which I am sure is the same problem. Can I find this sensor myself? Or do I have to take the car in YET AGAIN to have the ride height sensor reconnected?
Any help will be most appreciated!
 

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1994 Fleetwood 60" Stretch; '07 Avalanche, '95 Nighthawk
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3,963 Posts
I'm not sure how a ride height sensor comes off while doing the crankshaft position sensors. You don't even have to remove a wheel to replace the crankshaft sensors. It doesn't make any sense.

The ride height sensors are very easy to replace and the part is not that much either. It's connected to the control arm with a ball-and-socket arrangement and attached to the frame with a single nut. The hardest part is removing the tire. You have to figure out which sensor it is, though....

Jim
 

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'87 Jeep, '10 Thruxton, '00 Duc 748, '01 748R (853cc)
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3,703 Posts
The ride height sensor is attached to the inner wheel well. It uses a small metal rod with two plastic ball cups on either end to connect to the lower control arm. This is how it measure the height of the suspension. These ball cups can wear out over time, and pop off. The hole that the metal rod fits into can also loosen up over time, causing the rod to simply slip out of the ball cup. leaving it hanging from either the sensor or the control arm. If you get a jack under the front or rear of the car, and lift it up, you can easily see the sensor and rod. A quick glance will tell wether or not everything is attached, or has come apart. If the ball cups/metal rod have become dettached from eachother, get some suprglue, and use it to re-attache them (note, only do this if slipping the metal rod back into the ball cup). If the ball cup itself has fallen off of either the sensor or the control arm, than it is worn and must be replaced. I doubt that you can get these parts individually from the dealer, but you might want to try http://www.rockauto.com . They usually have some hard to find pieces liek these. Also, the front and rear assemblies are pretty much the same, but if they mention a front/rear specific part, get the one that applies. Better safe than sorry....Good Luck.
I'll take a picture of the one on my car, so you can get a better idea....
 

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Cadillac Technician
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The reason that the rod(s) came off during the crank sensor replacement procedure is that we lower the engine cradle to allow better access to the sensors. When the front two bolts are removed from the cradle it drops down giving you lots of space, but also it pulls the rods down if you don't disconnect them. Since the other ends of the rods are fixed on the body and they don't stretch, the pop out. Sometimes the tech can get in a hurry and forget to disconnect the rods, causing them to come apart, or he can forget to reattach them after he's done.
If they came apart when the sensors were replaced and you took it back, they should have reconnected both of them. It's possible that they didn't do a good enough job, so it might be worth having them take one more look.

It's carlessness on their part.

If you turn the front wheels all the way to the left and look inside the wheelhouse you should be able to see if the rods are disconnected. On '01 Deville you should find them on the rear edge of the lower control arm going up to the sensor which is mounted on the body just to the rear of the strut.
 

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1994 Fleetwood 60" Stretch; '07 Avalanche, '95 Nighthawk
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3,963 Posts
ewill3rd said:
The reason that the rod(s) came off during the crank sensor replacement procedure is that we lower the engine cradle to allow better access to the sensors. .
That makes sense. I wish I had known that when I did mine. I followed the FSM for a little while but it started to get crazy - removing the motor mount and whatnot. I took some advice from here and did it with little hassle but it was tight in there.

Jim
 

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Cadillac Technician
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I lower the cradle and use a swivel socket.
It's still a pain in the rear but it is considerably easier with a bit more room.

Sometimes I catch myself leaving the rods off, I usually check for the rods before I begin and really try to double check myself when I am done.
 

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2001 Seville SLS 140k miles
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50 Posts
Is that picture the front or rear of the car? Im unable to spot the height sensor and I would like to know what it looks like because I need to check mine
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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Front.........the rubber bellows on the drive axle is the giveaway. You can also see the oil pan and serpentine belt on the crank pulley.
 

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2001 Seville SLS 140k miles
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Well im totally confused becauuse i thought the seville only had air ride in the rear and that the sensor was in the rear as well. i know were not talkin aboout my 01 sls but i thought b/w 98 and 04 that the cars were the same. And yes my rear end is still sitting high :(
 

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98 Deville, '15 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium, '12 Ford Escape
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Well im totally confused becauuse i thought the seville only had air ride in the rear and that the sensor was in the rear as well. i know were not talkin aboout my 01 sls but i thought b/w 98 and 04 that the cars were the same. And yes my rear end is still sitting high :(
those sensors are on all four corners of my 98 SLS. I've had to replace two of them so far. easy to do.
 

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98 Eldorado
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The sensors you are speaking of are the "height sensors" but what is the "control sensor" listed for the supension? My Eldorado is riding high in the back also. Just looking for the culprit. I have no codes, what could be causing my high ride? How do I know which sensor is bad without a code?
 

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99 STS, White Diamond
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792 Posts
The sensors you are speaking of are the "height sensors" but what is the "control sensor" listed for the supension? My Eldorado is riding high in the back also. Just looking for the culprit. I have no codes, what could be causing my high ride? How do I know which sensor is bad without a code?
Which ride level sensor(s) are used depends on if you have an active road sensing suspension. If not, there is a single ride height sensor located on one of the rear control arms. With road sensing suspension, the two rear wheel position sensors are used.

According to my '99 Seville FSM, a high rear end can be caused by damaged height sensor or disconnected link, clogged air lines, or improper exhaust solenoid operation.
 

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98 Eldorado
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11 Posts
I appreciate your input. I disconnected battery to erase codes, removed and inspected the ride height sensor(only one in the rear) and the short length of a wiring harness. Wiring seems intact and undamaged as well as the linkage. I disassembled the sensor, no electronic components appear damaged and the seal and epoxy coated circuit board are in good condition. Then after I reinstalled everything and reconnected battery, no change. In fact I realized that the shocks were at max inflation. I then disconnected one air line and bled out pressure from shock and line and reconnected line. Height was now obviously lower. I then keyed on the ignition to let the compressor do its' run test. I watched the height as the compressor ran and the height went up and I did not hear the pressure release valve actuate after the compressor stopped running(I should hear a relief valve open, right?). I did this three more times and each time the height went up. I am thinking that the ride height sensor does not effect this situation but the exhaust valve does. Has anyone done this repair? I am assuming that I have to remove the entire compressor assembly. Is this difficult? Any pitfalls? I thank you for your help.
 

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2005 Escalade,1996 Eldorado
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23 Posts
Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement rod for the ride height sensor? I am missing one and haven't been able to locate a new one.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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68,473 Posts
hurst, The rear level compressor (ELC) is inside the r/r fenderwell liner. Jack up the car and put the body on jackstands under the rear pads (just in front of the wheelwells). Pull the r/r wheel and fender plastic liner. Two common faults are a bad exhaust valve or a plugged filter/drier unit. The compressor will choke on the snot generated by repeated pressure/vent cycles and the resulting moisture. Your best bet is to fork over the bucks and replace the entire assembly - either eBay, www.rockauto.com, or Luke in parts at Lindsay Cadillac, over there. Also, you or the repair shop blow out the shock air lines too. Quick disconnects. Make sure the air intake line is up through the grommet to the trunk area - anything to prevent excess moisture in the system.

41bigdawg...... junkyard or call a yard in www.car-part.com
 

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98 Eldorado
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11 Posts
So my trouleshooting does sound correct. Can the exhaust valve be serviced or replaced? I can get a replacement dryer for $35.00 and the compressor still works so if I can get the exhaust valve or repair it then I would be good. I was thinking about maybe converting shocks to manual by installing a tee with a schrader valve. If I do that how could I keep the Service ride control" message off. I know on my 91 eldorado I could set the ride control value to "0" and the message would go away. Anything like that for my 98 eldorado?
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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You can replace the drier, exhaust assembly, and compressor as individual pieces, but I don't think they're sold separately by a dealer. Junkyard ???

Call Luke at Lindsay Cadillac.
 

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98 Eldorado
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11 Posts
I spoke to a very informative gentleman at Suncore Industries today. This man has excellent knowledge of these systems. He has owned Cadillacs since 1983 and Eldorado's up until last year. He said without a doubt that my compressor assembly was bad. If it were the sensor it would have shown a code but a faulty sensor would not raise the car in that fashion. Just a side note here I once did rip my exhaust off in my old Eldorado and in the process bend my sensor bracket 90 degrees. That made the car jack up high. But anyway I can get a rebuilt compressor assembly for about $230.00 shipped to my door. These units are rebuilt by Suncore themselves. I'm going for it. Thanks for your help everyone.

http://www.suncoreindustries.com
 

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2001 DHS
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The reason that the rod(s) came off during the crank sensor replacement procedure is that we lower the engine cradle to allow better access to the sensors. When the front two bolts are removed from the cradle it drops down giving you lots of space, but also it pulls the rods down if you don't disconnect them. Since the other ends of the rods are fixed on the body and they don't stretch, the pop out. Sometimes the tech can get in a hurry and forget to disconnect the rods, causing them to come apart, or he can forget to reattach them after he's done.
If they came apart when the sensors were replaced and you took it back, they should have reconnected both of them. It's possible that they didn't do a good enough job, so it might be worth having them take one more look.

It's carlessness on their part.

If you turn the front wheels all the way to the left and look inside the wheelhouse you should be able to see if the rods are disconnected. On '01 Deville you should find them on the rear edge of the lower control arm going up to the sensor which is mounted on the body just to the rear of the strut.
See this is what I can't stand about you technicians. Always going by the book and charging us customers way more than what is necessary. Instead of droping the cradle and all that just take the oil filter and filter housing off. Its2-3 bolts depending on the year. Tada you have access to the sensors
 

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Master of the Dark Art of Diagnostics
2003 DHS - two-2002 DHS, 2003 SLS, 1995 Sedan DeVille, 1989 Coupe DeVille
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19,273 Posts
See this is what I can't stand about you technicians. Always going by the book and charging us customers way more than what is necessary. Instead of droping the cradle and all that just take the oil filter and filter housing off. Its2-3 bolts depending on the year. Tada you have access to the sensors
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See this is what I can't stand about you technicians.
See this is what I can't stand about you noobs -
always responding to old posts - this one has been dead for 8 YEARS -

and NOT reading/understanding what is actually written -

Instead of droping the cradle and all that ...................
no one said anything about DROPPING the cradle - read post #4 again -
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we lower the engine cradle to allow better access to the sensors"
to LOWER the cradle - you remove the rear 2 bolts - and loosen the middle 2 bolts -
this takes about 30 seconds - while up on a hoist - with an air gun - and a jack stand -
MUCH faster - and less messy than removing the oil filter adapter -

but - that still doesn't affect your bill -
all labor is charged by the BOOK TIME - regardless of how long it actually takes -

any descent mechanic will be able to book 40 hours in a 40 hour week -
a great mechanic should consistently book 55 hours in a 40 hour week - WITH NO COME-BACKS -

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oh ya - welcome to the forum -

 
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