[etcts-v]

I have 65k on my 05. By no means am I saying it slid right in, but if you jack it up all the way to the stop, lube it, get the front lip/edge started into the mount then you can beat it in with a dead blow hammer. When you are putting it in watch the slot in the insert and make sure the edges aren't getting caught on the center post of the mount.

Yeah that wouldn't have been possible with mine, dead blow hammer and lube made zero difference when I tried it, the main problem was the sides of the mount not the top and bottom. I had to get one side a quarter way in then crunch the other side and use a screw driver while my roommate used the hammer to beat it in, chewed it up a bit.

That said it would have been a lot easier if my transmission had been in the car.

 

[SevillianSTS]

How much more work would be involved in just removing the stock mount to press this insert into it ?

 

[xbladr]

Are you insane? It's rubber. Putting it in the freezer is not going to help you--in fact, it's going to hurt you. Big time.

Fuzzy it is not "RUBBER" it is a polyurethane similar to what the dif bushing is from CS. Multiple people including myself have frozen the dif bushing with great results. Even if freezing the mount doesnt help thats fine but it certainly wont hurt. However, I would be all ears to hear your explanation on how the freezer will hurt a poly bushing

 

[FuzzyLogic]

Fuzzy it is not "RUBBER" it is a polyurethane similar to what the dif bushing is from CS. Multiple people including myself have frozen the dif bushing with great results. Even if freezing the mount doesnt help thats fine but it certainly wont hurt. However, I would be all ears to hear your explanation on how the freezer will hurt a poly bushing

The reason why you freeze the differential bushing is to shrink its steel shell prior to installation.

 

[etcts-v]

How much more work would be involved in just removing the stock mount to press this insert into it ?

Not much although I think you best bet would be to try NC-V's approach first as it gives you a way to force open the mount with a jack.

 

[RADEoN]

Fuzzy it is not "RUBBER" it is a polyurethane similar to what the dif bushing is from CS. Multiple people including myself have frozen the dif bushing with great results. Even if freezing the mount doesnt help thats fine but it certainly wont hurt. However, I would be all ears to hear your explanation on how the freezer will hurt a poly bushing

it won't hurt the bushing, but if it freezes the rubber and makes it less pliable, i could see how you'd run into issues putting it in.

 

[FuzzyLogic]

Just got RevShift transmission mount installed. Now that I'm finished, I could probably repeat the installation in less than 10 minutes. Instructions:

1. Put car on jacks. Don't bother removing the exhaust or prepping your vehicle in any other way.
2. Put hydraulic jack under back of transmission (forward of the transmission brace) and lift until vehicle is almost taken off the jack stands. That'll open the gap slightly.
3. Lube the RevShift transmission block. Get under the car and use a normal hammer to get the front edge seated equally in the gap on both sides.
4. Turn the hammer sideways and jam the head up past the transmission mount into the propeller flange. Now you have a lever. Push the handle of the hammer toward the front of the car, forcing the transmission block into the mount. You might have to re-seat the hammer a couple of times to get the right angle.

Impressions: my transmission mount only has 24k miles on it, so it was in very good shape. However, there was a very clear difference between the feel of the car before and after the RevShift transmission block installation. The most obvious change was the fact that by raising the back end of the transmission slightly, more pressure was placed on the shifter plate and consequently, I noticed a mild decrease in shifter slop. It's slightly notchier now that it was before (Katech v2 short shifter + UUC bushings), which isn't appreciated, but doesn't affect my ability to shift. I also feel slightly more transmission vibration through the shifter and into the car, which I like because my "butt dyno" has more data to chew on. When combined with the Creative Steel differential bushing and block, there was a slight, additional reduction in the infamous parade clunk that we all hate. I presume that disengaging the clutch is creating a torque reversal that causes upward deflection in the transmission, which this block tries to counteract.

In summary, the RevShift transmission block is ridiculously overpriced (it probably costs RevShift less than $5 to mold this), but still represents a worthwhile upgrade over the OEM Cadillac transmission mount. I didn't have shifting problems due to a collapsed transmission mount, so I'm not the primary audience for this part. Still, I don't regret the $50 because of the peace of mind and increased vibratory feel through the shifter that this block provides. For those of you that suspect that your shifting problems are due to transmission misalignment, this upgrade is a no-brainer.

 

[xbladr]

Thx for the review Fuzzy my shifter is already incredibly notchy so we will see how this goes when i do it on wednesday

 

[FuzzyLogic]

Thx for the review Fuzzy my shifter is already incredibly notchy so we will see how this goes when i do it on wednesday

I doubt it can get any worse. If anything, it'll only improve your ability to get into reverse by improving the angle that the shifter plate sits at relative to the top of the transmission. I went a little too far out into an intersection yesterday and did a 1-2-3 2nd-reverse-2nd to get out of that situation faster than I ever could've before.

On a side note, if you like to keep anything that jingles in the cupholders (e.g. change or small car parts), you're probably out of luck because the additional vibration you get when you REALLY get on the throttle will come straight up and excite anything in there.

 

[xbladr]

Haha ok I will be sure to move the change from my cupholders however, I usually just use them for cups believe it or not.

It goes in tomorrow and will post up my results in here as well.

 

[xbladr]

I installed this today with the tips from Fuzzy it went extremely smooth. I was able to pry it in without much issue.

I put the vehicle on the ground and shifted gears and it felt good real solid I was excited had just gotten out of an 11 hour shift had been up for over 24hours and went to bed. Woke up late and had to head back into work. I reversed out of my driveway and it felt great. I started driving put it in first... then second? Second? What the hell. Trying to get it into second gear while moving was extremely difficult and when you got it in it would vibrate horrifically unless i held it to the bottom left of the shifter gate with all my strength then it wouldn't vibrate. I said ok lets try 3rd and that was smooth like first. I then tried 4th and everytime you tried to put it in it sound like gears grinding it was terrible. I put it in 5th that was fine even 6th was ok.

Anyone have any ideas why this could be happening? I have the (custom short shifter) and am thinking of maybe adjusting that bottom bolt that hooks to the linkage. I know people have said sometimes if the nut is too tight or loose it can cause issues but does anyone else have any ideas?

 

[Revshift]

I installed this today with the tips from Fuzzy it went extremely smooth. I was able to pry it in without much issue.

I put the vehicle on the ground and shifted gears and it felt good real solid I was excited had just gotten out of an 11 hour shift had been up for over 24hours and went to bed. Woke up late and had to head back into work. I reversed out of my driveway and it felt great. I started driving put it in first... then second? Second? What the hell. Trying to get it into second gear while moving was extremely difficult and when you got it in it would vibrate horrifically unless i held it to the bottom left of the shifter gate with all my strength then it wouldn't vibrate. I said ok lets try 3rd and that was smooth like first. I then tried 4th and everytime you tried to put it in it sound like gears grinding it was terrible. I put it in 5th that was fine even 6th was ok.

Anyone have any ideas why this could be happening? I have the (custom short shifter) and am thinking of maybe adjusting that bottom bolt that hooks to the linkage. I know people have said sometimes if the nut is too tight or loose it can cause issues but does anyone else have any ideas?

So far we have heard nothing but great things from the dozens of people who have installed the insert. I have a feeling the issue is related to your custom short shifter. Also, if your motor mounts are sagging it could cause the trans to be angled as well. Keep us posted on what you figure out.

 

[SevillianSTS]

Hmmm.... wonder if you should grind it down a little, so its not quite as tall.

Dealer is finishing up my car then I have to work Thurs and Fri, so I'll probably put mine in on Sat.

Fuzzy, yours still working out fine ?

I do still have the stock shifter in, UUC on the way planning on installing this insert first, so i'll be able to compare the insert with both shifters.

 

[xbladr]

@Revshift I was hoping not to have to change my mounts but it looks like I may have to do that sooner than later if I cant figure this out. I am most likely going to try and modify the bolt and see if that helps. Fuzzy what short shifter are you using currently?

@SevillianSTS I was thinking the same thing as it seems like the angle is most likely off but I dont want to start grinding it down. I am going to have to take a look at it again tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

If anyone else has any suggestions please feel free to share

 

[FuzzyLogic]

I'm using the 2nd generation Katech short shifter. I haven't seen what the DIY shifter looks like on the bottom, but it seems like you might've bent something on that shifter during the installation.

Was the shifter in 1st or reverse during the install?

 

[NC-V]

When I installed the insert I did a custom short throw similar to the pisnuoff (sp?) version, and upgraded all shifter bushings. This combo made my shifts more solid and have less play than the TR6060 shifters in the 5th gen camaros.

xbladr: pop the shifter handle/surround off and make sure the shifter is hitting or binding on anything in the console (like the big chunk of foam or rubber grommet) from boost in height from the insert. try removing that stuff and see if you can shift into 2nd and 4th . If not in there, jack up the car and have someone try to put it in second and forth while you're watching from underneath to see what is binding.

 

[xbladr]

When I installed the insert I did a custom short throw similar to the pisnuoff (sp?) version, and upgraded all shifter bushings. This combo made my shifts more solid and have less play than the TR6060 shifters in the 5th gen camaros.

xbladr: pop the shifter handle/surround off and make sure the shifter is hitting or binding on anything in the console (like the big chunk of foam or rubber grommet) from boost in height from the insert. try removing that stuff and see if you can shift into 2nd and 4th . If not in there, jack up the car and have someone try to put it in second and forth while you're watching from underneath to see what is binding.

@Fuzzy I did the shifter about 9 months ago but i believe it was in neutral during install. I would link you to *************** that had pictures of the shifter I installed but am not sure if that is agains forum rules/policy or not

@NC-V Thanks I will give that a shot. If I am sitting still i can put it in every gear in fact it seems to go in nicely or atleast it feels like it is going in every gear. Mine is also similar to brians (pisnuoff).

 

[xbladr]

Adjusted the bolt this morning with no luck all it seemed to do was make it easier (loosen) or harder (tighten) to get it into 5,6, or R. Any other ideas guys I can feel it go into gear when im sitting there put the clutch in you can feel it nice and solid in 2 and 4 but when you go to drive if i dont pull it real hard bottom left second gear will rattle and you can feel it... 4th gear you can't really get it in and when i did at slow speed it almost feels like a clutch or flywheel spinning around and at a certain point its u can feel the bump... bump... bump... bump.. with that pause and the faster in the rpm range u go the faster you feel the vibration.

I may just yank this revshift block out. I am not blaming revshift but, not sure what else to try.

 

[Guest]

Sounds exactly like the linkage is hitting the driveshaft yoke. I'm pretty sure you welded a 1" diameter pipe on the bottom which lowers the linkage just about 1". My shifters use to hit with the UUC mount because it is 3/8" taller than the stock mount. I reduced the length of my insert and inverted the pivot ball housing which brought the linkage up about 3/8" and now there are no issues with my shifters and the UUC mount combo. If you don't want to or can't modify the shifter differently you can insert a shim plate between the metal pivot retainer and the linkage bracket and notch out the plastic retaining plate inside the console. This will raise the entire assembly into the console.

 

[HAMSTAR]

Brian like a badass with the answer.