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I ordered one this morning. If I come up with anything worth reporting, I will.
Posts by FuzzyLogic
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I have an idea regarding how to install this thing with only basic tools--I'll let you know how it works. I think the main complaint about the Creative Steel mount is that it's very, very hard and therefore transmits vibrations very easily. It's also expensive.
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Are you insane? It's rubber. Putting it in the freezer is not going to help you--in fact, it's going to hurt you. Big time.
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I tried the exact same thing earlier with poor results. I think his transmission mount is softer / more worn than mine is (24k miles on my 06).
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The reason why you freeze the differential bushing is to shrink its steel shell prior to installation.
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Just got RevShift transmission mount installed. Now that I'm finished, I could probably repeat the installation in less than 10 minutes. Instructions:
Impressions: my transmission mount only has 24k miles on it, so it was in very good shape. However, there was a very clear difference between the feel of the car before and after the RevShift transmission block installation. The most obvious change was the fact that by raising the back end of the transmission slightly, more pressure was placed on the shifter plate and consequently, I noticed a mild decrease in shifter slop. It's slightly notchier now that it was before (Katech v2 short shifter + UUC bushings), which isn't appreciated, but doesn't affect my ability to shift. I also feel slightly more transmission vibration through the shifter and into the car, which I like because my "butt dyno" has more data to chew on. When combined with the Creative Steel differential bushing and block, there was a slight, additional reduction in the infamous parade clunk that we all hate. I presume that disengaging the clutch is creating a torque reversal that causes upward deflection in the transmission, which this block tries to counteract.
In summary, the RevShift transmission block is ridiculously overpriced (it probably costs RevShift less than $5 to mold this), but still represents a worthwhile upgrade over the OEM Cadillac transmission mount. I didn't have shifting problems due to a collapsed transmission mount, so I'm not the primary audience for this part. Still, I don't regret the $50 because of the peace of mind and increased vibratory feel through the shifter that this block provides. For those of you that suspect that your shifting problems are due to transmission misalignment, this upgrade is a no-brainer.
- Put car on jacks. Don't bother removing the exhaust or prepping your vehicle in any other way.
- Put hydraulic jack under back of transmission (forward of the transmission brace) and lift until vehicle is almost taken off the jack stands. That'll open the gap slightly.
- Lube the RevShift transmission block. Get under the car and use a normal hammer to get the front edge seated equally in the gap on both sides.
- Turn the hammer sideways and jam the head up past the transmission mount into the propeller flange. Now you have a lever. Push the handle of the hammer toward the front of the car, forcing the transmission block into the mount. You might have to re-seat the hammer a couple of times to get the right angle.
Impressions: my transmission mount only has 24k miles on it, so it was in very good shape. However, there was a very clear difference between the feel of the car before and after the RevShift transmission block installation. The most obvious change was the fact that by raising the back end of the transmission slightly, more pressure was placed on the shifter plate and consequently, I noticed a mild decrease in shifter slop. It's slightly notchier now that it was before (Katech v2 short shifter + UUC bushings), which isn't appreciated, but doesn't affect my ability to shift. I also feel slightly more transmission vibration through the shifter and into the car, which I like because my "butt dyno" has more data to chew on. When combined with the Creative Steel differential bushing and block, there was a slight, additional reduction in the infamous parade clunk that we all hate. I presume that disengaging the clutch is creating a torque reversal that causes upward deflection in the transmission, which this block tries to counteract.
In summary, the RevShift transmission block is ridiculously overpriced (it probably costs RevShift less than $5 to mold this), but still represents a worthwhile upgrade over the OEM Cadillac transmission mount. I didn't have shifting problems due to a collapsed transmission mount, so I'm not the primary audience for this part. Still, I don't regret the $50 because of the peace of mind and increased vibratory feel through the shifter that this block provides. For those of you that suspect that your shifting problems are due to transmission misalignment, this upgrade is a no-brainer.
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I doubt it can get any worse. If anything, it'll only improve your ability to get into reverse by improving the angle that the shifter plate sits at relative to the top of the transmission. I went a little too far out into an intersection yesterday and did a 1-2-3 2nd-reverse-2nd to get out of that situation faster than I ever could've before.
On a side note, if you like to keep anything that jingles in the cupholders (e.g. change or small car parts), you're probably out of luck because the additional vibration you get when you REALLY get on the throttle will come straight up and excite anything in there.
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I'm using the 2nd generation Katech short shifter. I haven't seen what the DIY shifter looks like on the bottom, but it seems like you might've bent something on that shifter during the installation.
Was the shifter in 1st or reverse during the install?
Was the shifter in 1st or reverse during the install?
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You guys need to be more patient. The noise and vibration will settle down over a period of about 2-3 weeks.
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All I can say is when I first installed the transmission block, I couldn't put anything in the cup holders because it would vibrate like nuts at around 3,000 RPM. I considered taking out the block, but (fortunately) didn't have an opportunity for several weeks. As it turned out, after a couple of weeks, the sound and vibration died down to an acceptable level, but it still wasn't quite normal. After a couple of months, things were totally normal. I don't know whether its Revshift's poly that's settling, the OEM rubber settling, the mount sliding into a more natural position, or something else, but I know for a fact that its not me becoming acclimated to the sound and vibration, and I also know that the improvement in shifting has stuck.
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I know that we discussed this before, but I'm sticking to my guns: that was a mistake. It *will* be better than stock if you stick through it. Unless your car has less than 10,000 miles, you almost certainly have a misalignment with the stock mount.
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Yeah, I'd like to see a full mount option from Revshift to compete with Creative Steel in this area.
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I'm not sure what Philistine means. I've had the cup in both orientations in the last couple of weeks, and the transmission shifted the same way both times. The problem with reversing the cup orientation is that 2nd, 4th, and 6th leave the shifter jammed up against the lip of the box. And you'll never be able to run an aftermarket driveshaft, since you have almost no clearance. As far as I know, there's no advantage to messing with the stock orientation.
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I'm excited about the transmission mount. The rubber on my stock mount is starting to peel away from the metal. But the Revshift insert looks new. Any chance it'll be height adjustable (e.g. screw drive) or provide better lateral support? Also, what's the chance that you could mold some 80A exhaust hangars? The OEM rubber ones are very soft and can crack and decay.Alright, you got it. I've been putting it off for long enough. I already have it designed. I guess its time to make a real life part. There will be no competition.
Do you want a better toe rod option while we are at it?
As far as toe rods go, I think you'd have to come in with a product that's lighter, stiffer, cheaper, easier to adjust, or some combination thereof (versus BMR or Creative Steel). On the front end of the car, there's more room for improvement--we don't have light/stiff tie rods, and we have one of the world's heaviest spindles. That spindle could be swapped out (see thread) for the V2 spindles, if only we had compatible sway bars or end links. If there's anything you can do about any of that, I think you'll have some excited customers.
I'm also looking for someone to do some plastic/carbon fiber molding of underbody panels. Do you know anyone who might be capable and interested in that?
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Absolutely agree. I have the Revshift billet coupler, and cannot run above 21 mph with it (the driveshaft carrier bearing vibrates in a truly horrifying way), despite doing all of the other bushing modifications, and following the instructions to the "T". In my opinion, the OEM drivetrain geometry makes it impossible. I'm saving the coupler though--should be able to use it when I get the G-Force 9" IRS.
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