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Platinum 2004 CTS-V
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So your stock motor mounts look like this?

If they don't yet, they will.




Time to change them out for some nice new Rev Shift Motor Mounts!
(the Nylon Nuts on the RevShifts are 3/4"):



Tools you'll need:

15mm socket
18mm socket
3/4" socket
Jack with piece of wood to distribute weight
External Torx E-10 (or a 8mm socket)
Extensions



Now you have a decision to make.....

Some people take the stock manifolds/or headers off to do this which makes life a lot easier but takes more time
(lots of extensions and an impact, when removing the motor mount brackets from the block)

Or leave the manifold/headers on and get up close and personal with a wrench.

Remove the wheel and dive on in.

This is showing Passenger Side (3 bolts):
Old Motor Mount bolts on block: 15mm



This is showing Driver Side (4 bolts):
Make sure the bolts with studded head go on bottom so the wire loom can be reattached



Here are the new Revshift Mounts inside both brackets. It's upside down in the pic (sorry I was in a hurry and was trying to take pics on the side)
RevShift also told me the factory heat shields are not necessary and were not installed



The Nut on the hex stud is 18mm



This is the same stud removed (you can use a 8mm socket on it if you don't have an E-10 inverted torx socket):



Here's how I lifted the engine block (and how I've done it every MM change)
My buddy Lance's head is now famous



Gratuitous Dipstick shot (some people say they've done it without removing, but I've taken mine out every time since it's like playing Jenga getting the MM bracket out...that bolt is 15mm)
Wrapped headers FTW



This is trying to maneuver the passenger side motor mount block from the engine bay (That nut on top is 18mm):



RevShift mount installed,,,very nice!:


Initial thoughts after I've put 400+ miles on these so far.......


The idle vibration is raised slightly compared to the UUC's. Now I realize this is all subjective....so a little insight:

The UUC's only vibrated slightly more than the stockers, so being the Rev Shift's being a harder urethane than the UUC's you feel the idle just a tad more like as if you had a tiny cam maybe?

The engine feels like it's more planted though like the power is getting transplanted to the ground a lot better. Placebo effect? I don't know.....but I like it.

I got the 80A blue ones (softer street ones) which are only $149.99....can't beat that price!

RevShift makes red ones (track ones) and even harder. So pick your poison.

All in all I'm happy with them because I like my power getting to the pavement. My UUC's weren't bad (I thought they were) but these are much firmer which hopefully translates to HP being used intsead of lost. (Like my butt dyno suggests) I'm digging em!

Here's a link to buy em:
https://www.revshift.com/shop/bushin...s/cadillac.php


If you have any questions, PM me......And I'm out.
 

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2005 Cadillac CTS-V
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thanks for the write up! I'm doing this soon...
 

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You didn't have to remove your headers to get at the top left bolt to the engine bracket(drivers side-reversed for passengers)?
I was going to replace my collapsed creative steel mounts with a UMI type mount; but then saw that and said screw it for now. Not that it's hard to do; I just didn't have the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wishful thinking, but you'll soon be very skilled at removing/replacing them. The second time around is cake.. so long as you didn't weld the collectors to the rest of the exhaust.
This will be my 4th time.....I'm pretty good at it now unfortunately lol.

You didn't have to remove your headers to get at the top left bolt to the engine bracket(drivers side-reversed for passengers)?
I was going to replace my collapsed creative steel mounts with a UMI type mount; but then saw that and said screw it for now. Not that it's hard to do; I just didn't have the time.
I did have to remove the driver's side header to get to that bolt. But I put the bolt with the studded head in that position incorrectly. If it was the regular headed bolt, it should be attainable without removing the header.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
FYI:

The pic with the heat shield on the mount is just laying on there. It slides down as soon as it's upright.

Revshift is now saying to use the factory heat shields. I'm not sure how this can be done since the Revshift mount passes right through the stock heat shield. You would have to zip tie (steel ties like the ones you use on header wrap) the heat shield around the mount or something.
 

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I used my leftover header wrap and stock heat shields over the supplied heat shields with my CS mounts. These things should be pretty safe.

If you don't have header wrap you could always use aluminum foil to wrap the mounts and secure it with metal zip ties.
 

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818 Posts
Give us about a week and we will have a permanent fix for anyone who is concerned with heat. I am very excited about the solution we came up with
I'm excited too but this would have been better if heat shielding was required/recommended beforehand. Btw, I like the transmission mount, good stuff! I like thinking outside the "box" solutions - bravo.
 

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I'm excited too but this would have been better if heat shielding was required/recommended beforehand. Btw, I like the transmission mount, good stuff! I like thinking outside the "box" solutions - bravo.
Yeah, sorry about that. We sort of over looked that recommendation at first. Glad to hear you like our crazy ideas, thanks.

Im glad I have waited to install mine, have had them for weeks (trans and MM's) in the box on the shelf waiting for reviews. Interested on the heat shield fix come Rev shift tell us already....
The necessary materials should be arriving today. We hope to have something to show by the weekend.
 
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