Yes, the rears are different than the front. The pistons screw in as opposed to using a "C" clamp to compress them. You need a brake cube to do it. There is only one bolt holding the caliper. Once removed, the caliper pivots up and off of the rotor on the slide pin. It then slides inboard to remove it. You'll also have to remove the parking brake bracket. A FSM would come in handy if you have never done it before.
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I second everything ranger has said however if you're like me and my rear ebrake cable bracket bolt would not budge you 'can' do the rotor change without removing it, it just takes a lot more patience and wiggling 
definitely make sure you don't clamp down on those rear pistons, you'll have to rebuild them if you do because you'll damage the threads, I know personally all about this, undo the bleeder screw to allow for a MUCH EASIER time screwing down the pistons.
definitely make sure you don't clamp down on those rear pistons, you'll have to rebuild them if you do because you'll damage the threads, I know personally all about this, undo the bleeder screw to allow for a MUCH EASIER time screwing down the pistons.
Personally, I rather be doing other things than "screwing" rear brake calipers.... :alchi:1 - 5 of 5 Posts
