That has a rubber seal on it. You have to heat it up to like 250F in your oven until it becomes pliable and pulls apart. Then once you have them apart you need to remove all of the sealant off the mating surfaces and when you put it back together you need new sealant to put inbetween them. I do not believe they are also screwed together but you can likely remove the screws before heating it up. New lenses can be found on Ebay.

 

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Great find! The listing seems to indicate compatibility with both HID and Halogen. That would be a game changer, I was finding it difficult to blow $1,800 on a pair of HID headlights (before they're discontinued) to have for the inevitable yellowed lens problem.

 

I thought I posted about this a while back. I've had my replacement lenses for months and will probably get around to installing them this summer.

That has a rubber seal on it. You have to heat it up to like 250F in your oven until it becomes pliable and pulls apart. Then once you have them apart you need to remove all of the sealant off the mating surfaces and when you put it back together you need new sealant to put inbetween them. I do not believe they are also screwed together but you can likely remove the screws before heating it up. New lenses can be found on Ebay.

It's butyl rubber and I'd limit the heat to 225F for about 15 min. The screws come out without a problem. On this repair I recommend the original butyl rubber sealant as opposed to the silicone free caulk sealant. The butyl is much tougher to remove without research but It's proper and better. The silicone free caulk gives off a good bit of moisture as it cures and you can end up with condensation inside the headlight in the process, I did.

It's also important not to make the same mistake the factory appears to have and that's drive the screws in place over the butyl rubber instead of clearanceing with a pilot hole, forcing it into the threaded hole, stressing and cracking it open. You will probably find on disassembly that the bosses for the screws are cracked, or fractured resulting in the loose seal that leads to water entry.

Great find! The listing seems to indicate compatibility with both HID and Halogen. That would be a game changer, I was finding it difficult to blow $1,800 on a pair of HID headlights (before they're discontinued) to have for the inevitable yellowed lens problem.

If you're going to remove the lenses it would be a good idea to perform upgrades, or preventative measures, like going to a brighter light bar lead (done) and perhaps replacing the yellow marker led (I believe Long had one go out) although I'm not sure about the led type. There is also a clear lens upgrade also in place of the frosted appearing OE lenses.

 

Long never replaced his and sadly his car is in preservation status now that it isn't worth anything.

 

Gen 2 cars are worth little on the open market, yet a well-maintained, rust-free example has great value to the owner as it continues to provide years of excellent service.

 

I used windshield butyl "tape" to seal a headlight on an STS.
The tape can be rolled to size and then joined to form a closed loop.
It's tacky so make sure your hands are clean and dry.

 

it sounds a beat complicated... is there any good instruction video?

 

If you can bake a cake it's not so much a challenge as it is a bit labor intensive as far as removing the old sealant from the headlight housing. Here is a local thread that may be helpful;

HID headlight problems / lenses suck lol.

I've been piecing together a few broken lights to try and repair (as well as black out, upgrade led pipe, etc.) and have everything working other than the high beam on the passenger side. It looks like the wiring let go and there's no easy way to fix the solenoid other than to replace the...

www.cadillacforums.com

Look here for the light bar upgrade, you'll have to post the thread title in the browser bar as this site does not aid and abet knowledge gathering from similar websites via direct links;

Who Wants Brighter Light Bars/Tubes in the Headlights?

 

It's easy enough. When you heat the light, it's being heated to the point where the butyl is softened, but not harming the light or electronics. A tip, if the butyl is initially giving way as expected then it all the sudden get's harder to release, reheat the light. The butyl will cool quickly, but reheating isn't bad as long as you don't overdo it.