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2000 sts
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3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Where is the pinch bolt on the column and how does it come out. I can't see what holds the column together down by the sensor.
 

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Cadillac Technician
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It is easiest to remove the bolt at the lower end of the intermediate shaft near the rack and pinion.
The upper pinch bolt is inside the rubber column cover and very hard to get to in the car.
 

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2000 sts
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Discussion Starter #3
What does the pinch bolt look like and how does it come out. does that boot have to come all the way out. Please help I'm having a rough time.
 

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The boot at the rack, pull the left front tire, make sure the wheels are pointed straight.
Lift the boot away from the rack and you'll see an 11mm bolt pointing right towards you.
Take it out, then pry the shaft up to release it from the rack.

You have to remove the 6 nuts holding the steering column to the magnesium bracket inside the vehicle.
DO NOT LET THE STUDS SPIN when removing the nuts, if you do, you'll be in big trouble.
I mark the stud, then turn the nut a little and check to see if the stud is moving, if it is you'll have to get an inverted torx socket to hold the stud and a crow's foot to turn the nut. Usually the two closest to the driver are not a problem but the lower ones are.
From there it is just unhooking the electrical stuff.

While the I shaft is out, I put a screwdriver blade in the slot and open it up a little, that will make re-installation a lot easier.

Once the column is out, don't let the shaft rotate!
Also have something soft to set the steering wheel on.
Set the whole column on the wheel, then you can remove the shaft from the column and remove the sensor.
Make sure the alignment pin stays in the sensor and the wheel stays centered when you install it.
Reverse the procedure to reasemble.
 

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2005 STS4 1SG: GM Acc Lights, Corsa, Platnium Grille, Volant
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15,987 Posts
wow
i thought it ALOT easier to pull the column from inside the car at the lower bolt behind the boot...
 

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2008 SRX
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The 2000 sts has a 13 mm nut (socket size) at the upper int. shaft to column fitting. Just push the plastic shield down a little, remove the nut and bolt, then push the shaft out of the column lower tube. Then remove the black plastic shield from the boot area. Next pop the black retaining ring off of the column and slide the sensor out. Reverse this procedure for install.

Tip: Start the engine to aid in moving the steering wheel for nut/bolt removal. Center the wheel before pushing the shaft out of the column. Don' t let the wheel rotate with the shaft disconnected.
 

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02 STS
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1,262 Posts
The 2000 sts has a 13 mm nut (socket size) at the upper int. shaft to column fitting. Just push the plastic shield down a little, remove the nut and bolt, then push the shaft out of the column lower tube. Then remove the black plastic shield from the boot area. Next pop the black retaining ring off of the column and slide the sensor out. Reverse this procedure for install.

Tip: Start the engine to aid in moving the steering wheel for nut/bolt removal. Center the wheel before pushing the shaft out of the column. Don' t let the wheel rotate with the shaft disconnected.
Ya this is how you do it... The bolt inside the car is not that hard to get to.. The intermediate shaft is one slippery [email protected]@rd :lol:

Do this on a warm/hot day... This makes the boot really soft... On cold days the boot is rock hard and impossible to push out of the way. If it isn't very hot when you try this use a hair dryer to warm things up.
 

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Some guys take a razor and cut the rubber boot to access the bolt inside.

You can certainly do it that way, and yes it would be easier... but I don't do it that way for a number of reasons.
The main one is that I have a lift in my stall and a box full of tools.
I don't like wrestling with that rubber boot myself.
But it is certainly worth a shot.

Same rules still apply, don't rotate the column with the I-shaft disconnected and make sure the column is centered when installing the sensor.
 

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2000 sts
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3 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I got that bolt off from the inside. I was looking to far down by the nuckle. Now that I got that out of the way the sensor dosen't want to come out. I can't really pry on it because of that green plastic that goes around it. Any tips? I've had enough for today. I'll try again in the morning.
 

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02 STS
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The sensor is a tight friction fit... don't worry if you break it when you remove it... after all you are replacing it... tap lightly with a hammer worked for me.

On my 2002 the column was not centered when the new sensor went on which kinda freaked me out... The new sensors are pinned from the factory (at least my 2002s was) and they are "keyed" to the shaft... To put my sensor on the wheel was about 10* off center (1 o'clock...maybe 11 o'clock.. the column was upside down at the time...) ;)

I was very nervous about this but I have no codes and the stabiltrack works just fine... GM redesigned these sensors lots of times... The FSM has instructions for 4 different sensors types for MY 2002 alone

Good Luck
 

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1998 Black STS
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30 Posts
I am getting ready to tackle this task too in my '98 STS and am dreading it.

I haven't ordered my sensor yet but saw where someone had them listed on ebay for $163 including shipping. It seems that the '98-'99 sensors are more pricey than the later models. Go figure.

Hope I can get mine done next weekend. Thanks for all of these tips!

John
 

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2015 Mazda3 S GT Hatchback 2013 Kia Optima SXL
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2,817 Posts
On a 2002 Seville, is the intermediate shaft splined, or a D shape? I am going to have to do this job also as I sometimes gat a C1288 code. Thanks

Don
 

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02 STS
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As I noted in 2002 (according to the FSM) there were 4 different Steering Sensors used.
They will ask for your VIN when you order this part.

Some where keyed some weren't. Some require a learn procedure, some don't On my 2002 the sensor was keyed though a "double D" system (two flat spots on the shaft), and did not need a learn procedure. Simply slide it on and plug it in. Piece of cake once the column was out of the car.

Again as I noted, mine did not get installed at straight up 12:00... it was closer to 1:00... They come "pinned" so you can't screw it up. The last thing you do is pull out the pin once it is seated. On my car the C1288 has not reappeared in almost 2 months.

Overall about the same difficulty are replacing the cabin air filter :thumbsup:
 

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1998 Black STS
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30 Posts
I just finished this job on my '98 STS. I had been dreading it, but it really wasn't that big of a deal.

First, I ordered my part from gmpartsdirect.com. I have ordered from them before and have always been happy with the price and the service. Their shipping costs look high, but when you look at the total with shipping compared to total with shipping from other gm parts sites, the total is competitive.

First a disclaimer---I only provide this information to be helpful to someone considering this repair. I do not wish to discuss or argue with someone about how I could have done it quicker or easier.

Anyway, I replaced my sensor without removing the column from the car. First, I located the sensor. Mine was inside of a plastic "seafoam" green collar that was at the base of the steering column near the rubber boot at the floorboard. I went ahead and pulled the wiring harness off of the sensor. In order to remove the sensor, I manipulated the boot as to obtain access to the bolt that goes through the coupling holding the upper column to the intermediate shaft. On mine it was a 13 mm. I actually loosened the nut, not the bolt head and it came off pretty easily. With the nut off, I pushed the bolt through and removed it from the other side. Once this nut is off, the steering wheel will spin freely. Everyone warned me not to turn the wheel with the column disconnected and I had to be very careful not to hit the wheel getting in and out of the car going for tools.

With the bolt out, the intermediate shaft slid right out of the coupling. At this point, I proceded to remove the old sensor. In order to remove the sensor from the green plastic housing, I had to remove the cap from the housing which was a cream colored piece that snapped on. Once this cap popped off, I had to push the boot towards the firewall as much as possible so that it could clear the end of the column.

Now, the sensor is ready to come out. Take a good look at how it fits into the green housing and this will make it easy to line up the sensor on the end of the column when you reinstall. It is not threaded or bolted onto the column, but rather it slides off. Mine took a little bit of wiggling and prodding, but it did finally come off. Again, I had to wrestle with the boot to get enough room to clear the end of the column.

Installation of the new sensor is the reverse of removal. My sensor was "keyed," meaning that it would only go back on one way. It was easy to line up as I had not turned the steering wheel and I had noted how the old one was situated in the housing.

Probably the only thing that gave me a little trouble was hooking the intermediate shaft back up. It had fallen away from the column inside of the boot and between wrestling with it to line it up and the boot to keep my hands in the right place, I was having a hard time. I finally decided to cut a "flap" in my boot so that I could get my fingers in there further down the shaft to help guide it in. No big deal once I did that. GM put this boot there to catch any lubricant that is on the shaft that may drip off. I resealed the boot using some electrical tape.

After the shaft was bolted back together, I had to remove a "pin" that was referenced by another poster. My pin looked like a metal spring with a rod running through it. I assume that this pin keeps the sensor centered or something during shipping and installation. The pin pulls right out.

Finally, I plugged the harness back in, started the car, and cleared my codes.
I haven't had any trouble since.

I wouldn't pay a dealer $500 to do this repair. If you have a few normal hand tools and the time and flexibility to wiggle under your dash, this is not a very hard job.

Hope this helps someone!

John
 

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The sensor is a tight friction fit... don't worry if you break it when you remove it... after all you are replacing it... tap lightly with a hammer worked for me.

On my 2002 the column was not centered when the new sensor went on which kinda freaked me out... The new sensors are pinned from the factory (at least my 2002s was) and they are "keyed" to the shaft... To put my sensor on the wheel was about 10* off center (1 o'clock...maybe 11 o'clock.. the column was upside down at the time...) ;)

I was very nervous about this but I have no codes and the stabiltrack works just fine... GM redesigned these sensors lots of times... The FSM has instructions for 4 different sensors types for MY 2002 alone

Good Luck
Oddly enough, when I bought my car, my steering wheel was at about 1 o'clock. It had me wondering. I am throwing code C1228 on my 02 STS and think that was the reason I got the service stability sys message amongst others. I need to lube the steering shaft anyhow.
 

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2015 Mazda3 S GT Hatchback 2013 Kia Optima SXL
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I just ordered a new sensor and intermediate shaft from GM Parts Direct. Cost about $120. When they get here I am going to remove the column and have at it. I bought the new shaft because I would feel like a real idiot if mine has issues, and I didn't change it when the column was out of the car. I am not sure, but I think mine is making some noise. Anyway, I will try and take pictures of the job, and make a post in tech tips to hopefully help others out when they need it. It doesn't seem too difficult.

Don
 

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I priced the parts earlier and have a service manual on the way. I really look forward to the pictures and everything. Keep me informed.
 

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2015 Mazda3 S GT Hatchback 2013 Kia Optima SXL
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I ordered the sensor and intermediate shaft last weekend, and gm parts direct got them to me by yesterday (they are getting much faster with delivery). I started taking pics, and quickly gave up on doing so. I will give tips that I found to make the job go a little more smoothly. I also was planning to remove the column from the car, but found that it would be extremely difficult to do so. There is some motor or something that is mounted to the column that blocks one of the upper nuts. I couldn't figure how to remove the motor, and did the work with the column in the car.

1. Remove the lower insulator from the dash

2. The steering boot needs to be lowered to access the upper int shaft bolt. I couldn't lower it, so I cut it to gain access. Since the lower end of the boot by the steering rack is still perfect, I figure this cutting will not affect anything.

3. Pry down the black sensor cover. I used a small screwdriver, but your hands may be fine.

4. Remove the 13mm nut from the int shaft. Pull the bolt out and seperate the int shaft from the column.

5. Pry down the next black cover that is over the sensor.

6. Disconnect the sensor wiring. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to get between the sensor and the sensor retainer, pry down with the screwdriver, while pressing down with your hand the sensor.

6a. If your are also doing the int shaft, raise the left front of car, remove front tire, place jack stand under control arm. Slide boot upward to gain access to lower int shaft bolt. It is important to slide the boot upward quite a bit. I didn't initially do so, and had one hell of a time reconnecting the int shaft to the rack. After sliding the boot further, it was much easier. Remove the bolt with an 11mm socket and at least a 6" extension. Remove the int shaft from the inside of the car. Place new shaft into the boot, but do not install yet.

7. Install new sensor onto the column. It will only go on one way, and it has a pin that will only fit into one hole. Once it is in place, remove the black pin that keeps the sensor centered.

8. Reinstall the black retainer to the sensor.

9. Reconnect the upper int shaft bolt and nut.

10. Reinstall the black cover that was removed to access the int shaft bolt.

11. Reconnect the sensor wiring.

11a. If you would like, if you cut the boot, now would be the time to tape it back together. I didn't do this, but you may feel better if you do.

12. Reinstall the lower insulater to the dash

13. Reconnect the lower end of the int shaft to the rack (only if you changed the shaft). Reinstall bolt and tighten to 35 ft lbs. I got it as tight as I could. I also needed to disconnect the tie rod end to get more room to get my arm in there to reinstall the shaft. It is tight, and if you have large hands and/or forearms, you will probably need to do the same. Slide boot back down so that it covers the steering rack.

14. Reinstall tire, lower car, you are done.

This job took me about three hours to complete. But about one to one and a half hours was spent fighting with the int shaft trying to get it reattatched to the rack. Again, sliding the boot upwards as far as it will go, and disconnecting the tie rod end will save you all of that time. If I was only doing the sensor, it would have taken about one hour. Hopefully this will help someone to better do the job for themselves.

Don
 

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Cadillac Deville 1990
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Ok this seems to be the right area for my question. I recently replaced my Rack and I unbolted the steer wheel to disconnect from Rack thinking it would be easier, turned out to be extra work and it came out without having to disconnect. anyway when I was replacing things back I notice the cast iron piece that two bolts from the lower bracket connects to was broken. If I remove the column can I get to that piece from the bottom? Is the yard the only place to find that piece? I have a 1990 Deville by the way...
 
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