[fubar569]

Ok guys...i think its replacement time for this thing. it makes horrible noises isolated to that side of the car, and can vibrate the whole front end it seems. definitely feel resistance and skipping in the wheel...its time for a pump...

for those of you who have done it:

1. how much of a PITA was it?
2. what tools do you need? i live at a small apartment on a city street now so if you know any tricks or tips or an exact list, please post...
3. about how long did it take you to replace?
4. anything i should look out for or anything else i must do to remove the pump? my dad said somethign about disconnecting the AC lines? it looks like i could remove it with them as is...

any tips, tricks, experiences, etc etc etc would be much appreciated...

Thanks guys!

 

[cadillac_tech]

The Northstar PS pump is a two minute job to remove, relax. Remove the belt, pressure line fitting, return line, and one 13mm bolt that holds it all in from the rear. The rest depends on the replacement part you have, tools you have, etc.

 

[fubar569]

The Northstar PS pump is a two minute job to remove, relax. Remove the belt, pressure line fitting, return line, and one 13mm bolt that holds it all in from the rear. The rest depends on the replacement part you have, tools you have, etc.

it's held in from the rear? i've never seen the bolt before. prolly under the beauty cover?

 

[AJxtcman]

it's held in from the rear? i've never seen the bolt before. prolly under the beauty cover?

View attachment 33204

 

[clarkz71]

You will need a pully puller to swap over the pully. The new pump should come with a bolt/nut tool
to install the pully onto the new pump.

Make sure you ask for a pump with a resevoir so you don't have to mess with
swapping over the old one. Not that much more $$ and it's plastic so it may be brittle.

 

[fubar569]

View attachment 33204

alrighty, from the looks of that it would be hidden by the cover...and nothing else would have to come off? nice...this oughtta be simple. my dad will have all the toos required to to the pulley swap so im nto worried. i think im going to go home to do this and the exhaust then come back to da burgh...it will just be easier and not much money for me to just drive it...lol

 

[Mountie]

View attachment 33204

Get a flashlight....you'll see the bolt. It's pretty easy.

Don't drop the bolt under the injector!!:crybaby:

 

[fubar569]

Get a flashlight....you'll see the bolt. It's pretty easy.

Don't drop the bolt under the injector!!:crybaby:

i take it you know from personal experience? lol :thepan:

 

[Mountie]

i take it you know from personal experience? lol :thepan:

I changed - out my entire Northstar. My old engine had a few nuts & bolts left in there from past fumble fingered mechanics.

 

[fubar569]

I changed - out my entire Northstar. My old engine had a few nuts & bolts left in there from past fumble fingered mechanics.

i like freebies! add them to the collection...lol

i just gotta get this done. it makes me happy to know its a relatively easy swap. cadillacforums to the rescue again!

 

[wachuku]

^^^ I changed my P/S pump today. Post if you got Q's. (Heads-Up: a special puller is probably needed to get the wheel off the pump).

 

[fubar569]

my dad has a zillion pullers - that im not worried about...
did you have to do anything special besides the one bolt removal?

 

[AJxtcman]

my dad has a zillion pullers - that im not worried about...
did you have to do anything special besides the one bolt removal?

remove the belt

 

[wachuku]

This is on a Northstar? '97 Deville? (Mine is a '97 STS).

The belt tensioner has a 1/2-inch square in it. Just use a 1/2-inch socket wrench to relieve tension and slide belt off P/S wheel.

To gain better access I did remove the engine cover and also a vaccume line (connected to the PCV valve, which just slips off by hand), but no A/C lines needed to be removed in my case.

Then it's just the one bolt as indicated in the diagram above. That bolt wasn't easy to access though -- a standard socket extender wasn't enough in my case. I had to build more length using some size converters (e.g. 3/8" to 1/2" and then 1/2" back to 3/8"). Also the bolt on mine was real tight, so I'd recommend a six-sided socket (mine was 1/2-inch).

Pulling the wheel wasn't easy for me either, but if you're blessed with access to a plethera of tools, it should be cake.

Installation is the reverse -- just don't forget to put the belt back on! (As well as anything else that may have been removed).

One additional thing I did before anything was to purge the power steering fluid. I disconnected the return line from the resevior, and added some tubing that went from the return line to a bucket. Then I poored new power steering fluid in the resevior with the engine idling while the return line shot into the bucket. I continued until clean fluid began exiting the retrun line (just over two quarts needed in my case). The old fluid was dirty as hell.

If you do decide to purge, I recommend doing it with the old pump, because the thing sucks fluid fast! I couldn't keep filling fast enough, and the old pump got some dry turns -- which obviously wouldn't be ideal for a new pump. Also then the new pump gets no exposure to old, dirty fluid.

Here's what sucked in my case though: the old pump was grinding even thougfh fluid was not low. The new pump ($50 remanufactured) grinds too, although less than the previous pump. I wonder if brand spanking new pumps grind too?

 

[clarkz71]

You need to follow the bleeding procedure from the FSM.

 

[wachuku]

^^^

Well I don't know if this is for fubar569, me (wachuku) or both, but I tried it last night. (I was doing the front pads & rotors so I had the car up). I did the turning 20 times each side for three cycles, and each time bubbles appeared. It seems like they'll never end.

When I purged the system with the old pump (prior to instslling the new pump), the pump sucked the power stearing fluid so fast that I couldn't keep filling the resevior, and consequently some air got in the line. I figured the air would just work its way out at the return side of the resevior, but maybe while the air pocket traversed the line it introduced too many bubbles in the fluid.

I'm thinking of making a custom purge contraption out of some thick tubes and old milk container or something, so I can do another purge and fill the resevior effectively this time -- thereby hopefully avoiding sucking air pockets into the line.

Any thoughts? Should I just keep turning the wheel instead? Is it realistic to try and stop that pump from grinding? If no gringing is a viable possibility I want to try.

 

[clarkz71]

When you did the wheel turning 20 times the engine was off, right.
I changed my pump, it's so quiet you can't hear it so yes it's possible.

 

[wachuku]

^^^ Yes, the engine was off. Twenty turns (one turn = full left and full right), three times. Still bubbles.

clarkz71 was your pump new or rebuilt? Should I expect rebuilt to perform almost as well as new?

 

[clarkz71]

New AC Delco. Shouldn't make a difference though, I've installed
many rebuilt pumps and never had a problem getting them bled.
Had a few stubborn ones, but eventually got them quiet.

 

[wachuku]

OK. I'll keep trying to follow the bleed procedure you posted above. (Good stuff, thanks).