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1996 Cadillac Seville SLS
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57 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am trying to get my fuel filter loose to replace it...

I have removed a piece of the black retaining thing that holds it, but it's still tight as can be... What gives? :mad:
 

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2013 XTS
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2,087 Posts
I don't remember if I changed the one on my 94 but on my 99 and 00 you just losen the bolt and undo the clip and presto it's out.
 

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2004 Escalade, 07 Road King, 08 Challenger SRT8
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712 Posts
Are you talking about the black plastic thing that holds it up??? Sort of wraps around the body of the filter??

If all else fails.... the previous owner of mine just cut thru it... after I replaced the filter, I put 2 tie wraps on it to hold it up, but those probably wouldn't even be needed... the lines & stuff hold it pretty solid... at least on mine...
 

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On my Eldo, the black filter holder is secured to the brake/fuel lines directly above. Unless you remove that holder, it'll be really tough to undo the fuel fittings. At least, it was on my car.

There's a little tab that needs to be pressed out in order to remove the black piece of plastic. The top of it is like a clamshell, which closes over the brake/fuel lines.
 

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Sedan de Ville, CTS
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4,764 Posts
I have done brakes, water pumps, old fuel pumps, etc; but I have always had a shop change out my fuel filter because I had heard that you could really screw up some of those old GM filter with the pig tail--early 90 Olds.
 

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90 Eldo -SOLD-, 98 ETC -SOLD-, 86 XR4Ti Track Car, 07 Ranger
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963 Posts
GG-CADDY,

You're refering to the fuel filter bracket which Patrick7997 accuratley described, if you want to salvage the bracket w/o cutting it, get some WD-40 or your favorite penetrating oil and spray all around the edge, let it seep down, repeat this at least one more time 20 minutes later, and wait, then get a rag and place it around the bracket, take a pair of pliers or vice grips and attach to the fuel inlet/outlet (can't remember which way mine pointed), and TWIST it back and forth until it loosens, chances are there's tons of small particulates that have bound the filter in place and you need to loosen it that way, then it should slide right out, clean your bracket up before installing your new filter. For safety, remember to DEPRESSURIZE your fuel system before doing this change. To depressurize if you take off the vanity cover from the engine there should be a nipple on the fuel rail on the front bank, driver's side that looks like an air hose attachment, just open your gas cap and put some rags under the nipple and depress with a screwdriver. Hope this helps.

Z06,

not really true on these cars, fuel filter is very simple and straightforward, some makes/models use a small wrench to remove fuel lines from the filter but you can usually find a universal wrench at autozone for less than $5, also some have plastic retaining clips, again autozone. On the caddy you can do it all with simple hand tools and reuse the connection hardware...
 

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1996 Cadillac Seville SLS
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57 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well... I finally was able to push the damn filter out of that evil bracket...LOL! All I could think yesterday was --> I have done some challenging repairs on this car, and I am going to be put in checkmate by a fuel filter!!!! :rant2:


QUESTION --> While driving arrund today my SERVICE ENGINE SOON & SERVICE EMISSION SYSTEM came on... Is this a normal reaction after installing a new fuel filter? I have not had these until I changed it yesterday.
 

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QUESTION --> While driving arrund today my SERVICE ENGINE SOON & SERVICE EMISSION SYSTEM came on... Is this a normal reaction after installing a new fuel filter? I have not had these until I changed it yesterday.
When I replaced my filter, I didn't have any codes set. You should see which DTCs are showing up, and then clear them.

If they come back, you may have to pull the battery cable to allow the computer to clear itself. I had a few recurring codes after using a Tech 2 scan tool, and they only went away after pulling the power.
 

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2004 Escalade, 07 Road King, 08 Challenger SRT8
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I had no codes when I did mine... but I did get some instructions, probably from this board (or the other one) that said after replacement, turn the key on, do not start the car... wait 30 seconds, for the system to repressurize, and then check carefully for any leaks...

When you're satisfied, then start the car.

Maybe that's why I didn't get any codes???

I didn't think it was that hard to do, and I'm no supertech. I'm like a notch above hobbyist, at best. My only problem was, it has a "slip-on" style on one side... that was cake. The other side has a nut... that was tough. You need two wrenches. I hit it with PB blaster every half hour for 2 hours, still nothing. You need two wrenches to do it, you want to force the one, while holding the other... I couldn't get enough force, so I ended up putting a piece of 2x4 against the bottom of the car, and then pushing the one wrench, while the other was forced against the 2x4, holding it still... then I got it.

Oddly enough, I was afraid to torch it....:eek: Heh heh, sorry, obviously, do not torch the fuel filter or the fittings...

I'd say 50 is about right... I don't have the book in front of me... Mine had 85k or so, when I did mine, and it had been done at least once already, obviously.

I'd also say, have some rags handy, and no smoking. Even with the system depressurized, some gas leaks out, and while laying under there, you will get gas on you...
 
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