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Discussion Starter #1
On my 03 CTS, I've just installed a 12" kicker sub and 400W amp. Everything looks and sounds great (other than the rattling I mention in my other thread), however right now I have a very ghetto setup for my remote wire.

I'm running it to one of the fuse boxes in the rear seats and TRIED to find one (using a multimeter) that is only on when the key is in...but I don't believe I succeeded. It seems to stay on no matter what I do, so as of now each night I unplug the remote wire from the fuse box to avoid it running down my batter.

Ideally, I want to splice my remote wire to the remote wire running from the factory head unit to the factory Bose amp. That way, my amp is ONLY on when my factory amp and radio are on. I took the amp out, looked at it, and gave up in frustration as none of the wiring is explained and I could not find a wiring diagram. I couldn't identify the factor remote wire at all.

Does anyone know what it looks like and how best to splice into it? Pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton!!
 

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I tapped into the CCP fuse in the fuse panel under the rear seat. My Subs will only turn on when the car is running.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hey8you said:
I tapped into the CCP fuse in the fuse panel under the rear seat. My Subs will only turn on when the car is running.
Which is the CCP fuse? Sorry haha, don't know the acronym. Also, where did you find a fuse tap for mini fuses? I checked all my local hardware and electrical stores, the local NAPA and autozone, and all they have are regular size fuse taps which don't fit our mini fuses that are the majority of fuses in the rear seat fuse boxes.

So instead I've just been using a flat wire head I crimped on and sticking them in spare, unused fuse slots.
 

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Also, any time I put the key into my car to start it, the sub gives a pop (nothing wrong with the sub tho). I feel this may be due to a power spike or something, and if I had the remote wire spliced to the factory amp this may not happen. Could be wrong tho.
 

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Your not going to find a remote turn on for the factory amp. Because it uses the Class 2 data wire, which is pink. But it's a signal that the aftermarket amp won't work off of.

CCP is Climate Control Panel.

The popping is "normal" for the way that you are doing it. It's actually the factory system doing that. Because your aftermarket amp is ON before the factory system is. So it's that "rush" of turn-onage is what's happening. So once you get the aftermarket to turn on with or after the factory, it shouldn't pop any more.

I must ask, how did you tap into the factory audio?

Go back to AutoZone, cus they have the mini taps...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Electrical/Fuse-and-Accessories/_/N-25gq?filterByKeyWord=fuse+tap&fromString=search

KOT
 

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Which is the CCP fuse? Sorry haha, don't know the acronym. Also, where did you find a fuse tap for mini fuses? I checked all my local hardware and electrical stores, the local NAPA and autozone, and all they have are regular size fuse taps which don't fit our mini fuses that are the majority of fuses in the rear seat fuse boxes.

So instead I've just been using a flat wire head I crimped on and sticking them in spare, unused fuse slots.
CCP(Climate Control Panel) fuse is under the drivers side fuse panel under the rear seat. Was too lazy to go get a tap so I made my own by modifing a spade connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Kingoftypos said:
Your not going to find a remote turn on for the factory amp. Because it uses the Class 2 data wire, which is pink. But it's a signal that the aftermarket amp won't work off of.

CCP is Climate Control Panel.

The popping is "normal" for the way that you are doing it. It's actually the factory system doing that. Because your aftermarket amp is ON before the factory system is. So it's that "rush" of turn-onage is what's happening. So once you get the aftermarket to turn on with or after the factory, it shouldn't pop any more.

I must ask, how did you tap into the factory audio?

Go back to AutoZone, cus they have the mini taps...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Electrical/Fuse-and-Accessories/_/N-25gq?filterByKeyWord=fuse+tap&fromString=search

KOT
Thank you for clearing that up! So how do you I get the aftermarket amp to turn on with or after the factory system? Will using the CCP fuse for the rem wire work?

And when I bought the car, the previous owner had left already installed a line in/line out converter that was mounted right next to the factory Bose sub. It has RCA cables coming out, do I just used those. Works well so far.

Here's a pic I used in a previous thread actually...


image-256086687.jpg
 

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Thank you for clearing that up! So how do you I get the aftermarket amp to turn on with or after the factory system? Will using the CCP fuse for the rem wire work?

And when I bought the car, the previous owner had left already installed a line in/line out converter that was mounted right next to the factory Bose sub. It has RCA cables coming out, do I just used those. Works well so far.

Here's a pic I used in a previous thread actually...


View attachment 96535

Easy enough. It was just an added sub amp. Used a line level converter from the inputs on the factory sub.

I was going to do exactly that to save all the display and factory information on the screens. Plus, upgrading the factory speakers to Infinity had a PROFOUND increase on sound quality. The factory amp already has plenty of power and ability, the speakers and tweeter is what is lacking.
 
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